REBUILDING A CHEAP BMW M5 COMPETITION | PT 4

Despite my greatest efforts of buying this BMW M5, taking the engine out, fixing the structural damage and then putting the engine back in, I still cannot get it to move from the ramp. And that's not because it doesn't have wheels on. When we put the engine back in, it started. The problem was, it wouldn't go into gear. Not neutral, reverse or drive. It was stuck in park. Which was confusing as I'm sure I plugged everything in. The only one thing I didn't have was brakes. Oh, I've got no brakes. I've got no brakes at all. When I took the engine out, I took it out with the full subframe and brakes. So after putting it back in, me and my dad bled the brakes the old school way. But it still didn't seem to work. But then we found out BMW uses special procedure to bleed the brakes using a diagnostic tool. We followed this exact procedure, but still no brakes and no gears. So we're picking up where we left off from. This time we have an actual vacuum thing. This is just going to pump pressure into the master cylinder here, giving the whole system some pressure, which is I think what we needed last time. And then we're going to do the same procedure with the Autel and do it corner by corner. And hopefully after that we can get a brake pedal. Whether this is going to work or not, I'm a little bit sceptical, but let's see. We're starting off with the rear left caliper as it states on the diagnostic tool. And the pressure bleeder is taking air pressure from the front tyre into the bottle and then into the master cylinder. And this is going to supply a constant flow of brake fluid. And as we got to the front calipers, we noticed bits of air coming out. We were pretty sure that there was some air getting trapped in these huge pipes going to this ABS module here. It's just whether that pressure bleeder got them out. If this works, first time, people are going to think we were like messing around the first time. Just because of that, that thing. Easy bleed. Go on, try it. There's no way this is going to work. Not a chance. Here we go. Let's see if we've got a pedal. I was sceptical, but as I put my foot on the brake, it was solid. I've actually got a brake pedal. No way. After all of that, I cannot believe that worked. But will it go into gear now? If this goes in gear now, because we have that solid brake pedal, it's a miracle. Okay, ignition on. Okay. Yeah. It goes in gear. Come on, how? It works. It goes in gear. It must be a pressure switch on it. It's not. Yes. So now I have a brake pedal and the car finally goes into gear after putting the engine in. Which now means I can continue the rebuild. And oh, do we have many parts to continue that build with. But we've still got to remove some damaged parts. There was lower front arms that needed to come off and then a lot of damaged and cracked coolant hoses. There's almost two cooling systems on this engine. One cooling system cools the engine and then the other one cools the air going into the engine, giving it more power. And you may notice I've still got the original charge coolers on the top, which are damaged as the new ones haven't arrived yet. So I'm going to have to put this thing together with the old charge coolers on and then swap them over once I've built up the front end, which is going to be slightly more difficult than doing it now. But I really want to get this front end on. This radiator down here, which I'm disconnecting the pipes for now, is the transmission cooler. And when I disconnect the pipes, it doesn't look like it's got much oil left in it. So we're definitely going to have to refill the gearbox with some oil before we get this thing out on the road. And then on goes this brand new secondhand rad pack, which I got from eBay, which was pretty cheap. Then I've just got to connect all the hoses, clips and mountings into place. OK, we're actually getting somewhere now. Now that I actually have the rad pack on the front and also on each corner, I can start to figure out where this loom goes. Now there's a few plugs which are missing from the end, but now I'm starting to figure it out. So this one would go directly here, which is a switch for the air con. So I can order that plug now. And then this one down here, I still have no idea, but I think this has got something to do with the parking sensors. Not sure what that one is. And then also I have this huge loom over here, which I have no idea where that goes at the minute either. But the next thing to go on is the front crash bar along with the bottom oil cooler. So I'm just going to slide the crash bar into the chassis legs and then bolt up the supporting bars on the top. And then we've got to move underneath the car, because if you remember from the first video to get this car started, we bypassed the oil cooler with this huge silicon hose. So I've just got to remove the silicon hose and then put the feed and return line into the oil cooler, which sits underneath the car. I'm going to stop here on the front end at the minute, because I've just noticed something on here, which is going to put the build cost up a lot. And at the minute we're actually doing okay. Come over here, 32,500 is what it cost me for the BMW M5 and the cheapest M5 with the same spec, similar sort of mileage is 52,999. Now obviously mine was in an accident and when I check it out using CarVertical, you're always going to be able to see that. You can see here at the top of the report, it's showing an amber light for being in an accident. When I scroll through the report, everything all looks in order and in line. Apart from here, I can see that it was a category S write-off and the accident happened in February 2021. Now if we go on to AutoTrader, I can see the cheapest categorized M5 is selling for 49,900, which has got double the amount of mileage mine has. So I said if we can rebuild this under 10,000 pounds, we're doing okay. And at the minute, we are doing okay. But that was until I got to this point now, which could get a little expensive. But if you don't want any unexpected and expensive surprises when buying your next car, please check it out using CarVertical. For example, here's another BMW 5 Series that I've checked out and it actually has a mileage discrepancy, which CarVertical have picked up on, and it's been involved in an accident. And what's even better than that, on some checks, you can even see the photos of when the car was auctioned off at the CarCrash auction website. So you can see exactly where the damage on the car was. So make sure to take your car, your friend's car, or a car that you're potentially about to buy by clicking the link in the description box below. And when you check your car out, use code Matt for a nice bit of discount as well. I'll get back to that issue in a minute, but for now, we've got wheels to put on and something special underneath the car. This, oh my God, I'm going to be right. Oh, wow. Okay. This was the full exhaust system that came off from the downpipes here, and I believe, I'm sure a lot of you said that these are the OPS, not what are taken off on the downpipes. That's what we've already done on the car. We've then got a silencer to silence the noise and then a back box or muffler if you're American. But obviously, me being me and the cars that we do, we won't be putting back on the standard exhaust. We're going to be putting on this full Remus exhaust system. This is the new exhaust, and I feel like I could have made a mistake. Sometimes, louder isn't always better, and this exhaust looks like it's going to be insanely loud, especially how this car is a 4.4 liter twin turbo V8. First thing that goes on are these pipes here, which replace the OPS filters. Then it connects to these pipes, which get rid of that center silencer. Then I've got to remove the valve system of the old exhaust, which allows you to open and close the valves to make it quieter or louder and fit them onto the new exhaust. And you may notice the new exhaust back box or muffler is considerably smaller than the old one. All I've got to do now is fit all the hangers in place and line the exhaust up so the exhaust tips are all in line at the back of the diffuser. And I was getting pretty excited to hear what this exhaust system was going to sound like. The exhaust is on, and it looks so sick. Like, brand new Remus all the way from the top to the bottom, Evolve downpipes as well, fitted snug against this exhaust. Now, there's still a load of like braces and under trays and everything to go on, but I'm dying to hear it. So I'm going to let Liam do the honours. This is going to be so loud. It's going to be ridiculous. Yeah, this is going to be so loud. It's going to be a contender with the C63. I think it is. We're still missing the charge coolers. We don't have any cooling in, so I'm just going to drop a bit of cooling in just so it's got a little bit in there. You're meant to vacuum fill these, but we'll get to that. But just so we can start it, let's do it. Remus exhaust, Evolve downpipes. Let's do it. Yeah. And it's the tiniest one. It's on the tiniest one. Okay. That's loud. That is insanely loud. That is ridiculously loud. No leaks. We seem okay. We've got a start up. Come on, we've got brakes. We've got exhaust. We are making some progress now. Just got to put all the strut braces and trims along the bottom of the car and job done underneath there. But there's one thing that we are forgetting since we put the engine back in. When I had the engine out, we upgraded the front suspension to KW adjustable springs, but we left the rear, so we've got them to do. So here's me thinking the rear suspension was going to be easy, but obviously not. All I've literally got to do is take this shock absorber off, which is held in with one bolt across here onto the wheel hub. But to get to the top mount bolts right at the top there, they go through into the car, which I thought would be behind this carpet here, but it's not. It actually turns out they are behind this parcel shelf somehow. So I think I've got to remove this parcel shelf so we can get to the top mount bolts and go from there. So wish me luck. To get to that parcel shelf was definitely not easy. I removed the lower half of the rear bench and then a lot of the shelf was on clips. So I removed all the clips first, then the trims had to come out each corner. And then to actually remove the parcel shelf, I've got to dismantle both seat belts either side. And once I got the seat belts out of the way, there they are, three bolts holding the top mount for the rear suspension on. Not the easiest of places to put it, BMW. But once I'd undone those top mount bolts, I could then go back underneath the car and undo the big bolt holding the strut to the wheel hub. Then it's only one electrical connector at the top of the suspension which needs to come off. And there we have the strut and the spring away from the car. To take the spring off, I'm going to use my spring compressors because again, I don't fancy losing any teeth. Then it's just an 18mm nut to loosen off the top mount. Now the KW springs use the same shock absorber, but the actual spring seat needs to come off. And I found the best way to do this was heat it up and then just knock it down with a hammer. I'm sure you're meant to do it with a press, but I don't have a press. So the hammer was the next best thing. Then I could knock on the new KW lower spring seat, which is of course adjustable, which allows me to adjust the ride height up and down depending on whether I change the wheels to a bigger size or not. But by keeping the same strut, it allows me to keep that adaptive suspension, which stiffens it when it's in sport mode and softens it up when it's in comfort mode. So it's a bit of a win-win situation with these. And now we've got it assembled, I can pop it all back on the car, one bolt to the wheel hub and then those three bolts to tighten up on the top of the strut tower. And that is job done. Okay, she's starting to look more complete now, I would say. The ride height at the back with the stock wheels is now looking pretty much perfect. And then when we move on to the front, again, I think that is absolutely bang on. We've still got all the body panels to go on the front, so it may sit a little lower on the front with those stock alloys. And then also in the back, I've not put together this back parcel shelf just yet because we do need to send these seatbelts off to be reset because obviously the tensioners probably would have blown. Although the seatbelts do still move, but we'll find out. It's better to be safe than sorry and send these off as well as doing the front ones, which are, again, completely locked out as well. And while the front airbags are going to be a different story. Now remember when I said this was about to get pretty expensive. So far to get to the point we're at right now with the hoses, the crash bar and the rad pack, it's cost me an extra £1,100. But I've actually managed to find myself a secondhand bumper from eBay, which is actually in the same colour as the car. The problem is we're missing a lot of parts from it. And I think those parts have got something to do with these two wiring looms here. In this bumper you have holes for a parking sensor there, a parking sensor there, there, there, there and there as well. The problem is there's some cutouts here which look for like little square ECU modules of some sort. And when I look on the parts diagram for this car, I can see that these little ECU modules are on each corner and there's something to do with the sensor for lane changing warning or something like that. And each of them are £530 each. And we look like we're missing one and two. And on top of that, it could potentially get worse. Depending whether this M5 was specced with a radar sensor which sort of sits around here or sometimes in the lower bumper, I'm not so sure, which actually detects where the car is in front so it can keep at the same speed as it. If I've got to order one of them, you can see here they are £1,619 and that's just for the sensor, not for all the brackets and everything that needs to hold that in place and not to mention the loom which goes to it as well. So this really could be where all the little parts sort of price up the build a lot more unless we can find some second hand ones which would potentially work but then we've got the issue of probably coding them to the car. Don't quite know how it works. If you guys know, let me know in the comment section below. Do you think it looks better, doesn't it? Well yeah, it looks more like a car. But I just don't... Yeah, I just don't like BMWs. I'm so sorry. Well, if you like BMWs, these are the brand new M Sport T-shirts which you can see here ready for the better weather which is coming and you can grab one of these by clicking the link in the description box below and you'll be helping support the M5 build. Thanks so much to all of you guys for watching this video. If you've enjoyed it, hit that thumbs up button, hit the subscribe button and I'll see you in the next video. Peace out. Oh look, I don't even have an engine management light. There's not even an engine management light on the dash so we're doing alright. No way. No way did that all along. It's just that little box.