14th中世紀哥特式時代的服飾男、女、鎧甲怎麼穿?中世紀一天的生活情景再現 ELIZABETH WOODVILLE PART 1_ Making a 15th Century Queen Gown
182 觀看·2024年12月4日
Hello dear friends, I'm Daisy Victoria
and this is Elizabeth Woodville
or at least a dress like the one that she wears in the famous painting
I was inspired to make this dress
because I recently had come upon a great deal
on some very pretty black velveteen
Furthermore, I've been watching a lot of documentaries
on the English monarchy
and I thought to myself, you know what?
I know what I need to do
I need to cosplay Elizabeth Woodville
Elizabeth Woodville was the queen consort of England
from 1464 to 1483
She was married to King Edward IV
and it's actually kind of interesting, her story
because she was not born of a rank
that one might expect one to become the queen consort
She was actually one of Edward's subjects when she married him
and she was said to be very, very beautiful
Elizabeth Woodville was also the grandmother
of the ever famous Henry VIII
Her daughter, Elizabeth of York, married Henry VII
and they are the parents of Henry VIII
Another interesting fact about Elizabeth Woodville
is that she's the mother of two princes
One was actually Edward V
as he was proclaimed king for a brief time
and these two princes, Edward V and his brother
are known as the princes in the tower
and it's actually a murder mystery
that was never solved
So there's a lot of interesting speculation
on what exactly happened
and it's obviously quite political
a sort of real game of thrones
like so much of history was
The famous painting of Elizabeth Woodville
which I based this costume on
was painted in about 1472
The dress she is wearing really reminds me
of the Burgundian court fashion
which was seen in the Duchy of Burgundy
as well as throughout the Netherlands
during this time
So I actually went to my research
on those dresses
to get a lot of my ideas for this one
The hat she's wearing
it looks exactly like a truncated hennan
which is typical for Burgundian fashion
So I completely based the hat on
information from that era
and I actually tried out a new method
when I was making this hat
which I kind of wanted to try
and I'm very excited to finally try it
I really love Burgundian court fashion
and making this sort of variation on it
was really exciting
I'm going to show you guys
the process of making this dress
The brocade I found for this project
was actually sort of a tan color
and I wanted it to be gold
So I purchased some dye
and I dyed it myself
Here's the fabric going into the dye bath
And I actually used the instructions
on the package of Rit Dye
So nothing really super special
Just following directions
And this worked out very well
It turned my tan fabric into a beautiful gold
This is the fabric that I will be using
for the cuffs and the collar of my dress
as well as in the hat
Now I'm cutting out my dress
using my tried and true pattern
This is actually the same pattern
that I have in my medieval kirtle
fourteenth century tutorial
and I'm actually adjusting it
to add a little bit more width
because this dress is going to be
belted at the waist
and I don't want it to be quite as fitted
as the other dress is
Here I'm just making sure
that the bottom of my gores
which are basically extensions
that are going to go on the sides
the front and the back of the skirt
are lined up with the curvature
of the rest of the skirt pieces
And I'm cutting my gores
as triangles of fabric
because that way they will extend
the flare of the overall skirt
Next I'm cutting out my sleeves
I'm using my tried and true sleeve pattern
and the instructions on drafting that
are in my tutorial for the medieval kirtle
It's the same sleeve actually
that I used for that one
Once I've attached a gore
to the side of the skirt
you can see how it just opens up here
and it makes the skirt
have a little bit more volume
Next I'm sewing the sides together
on the dress
and basically I'm sewing
the two sides together
so that there's a gore in between them
extending the skirt there
And I'm doing that
with the front and the back also
sewing them together
where there's a triangular gore
in between all the way to the hem
so that the skirt has extra volume
in all four regions
Here you can see the front
I've actually left it open
above the gore
that way I will be able to get into
and out of the dress
because it is not totally fitted
but it is still fitted enough
I need an opening there
Next I'm going to work on the sleeves
I have a side back seam on my sleeves
and I'm pinning that all the way down
because these sleeves
are not going to have any opening at the wrist
They're just going to slide right over my hands
Next I'm creating a pattern
for my sleeve cuffs
I want the cuffs to fit
at the bottom of the sleeves
and then I want them to be
a little bit bigger at the top
so they're not quite as skinny
as the sleeve at the end up there
I'm just trimming my pattern here
making sure things look all right
And then finally
I am labeling my pattern
because I want to know
what this is later
Next I'm cutting out my cuffs
from my brocade
which you saw I dyed this gold color
I'm cutting out two pieces
per cuff
So there's an outer fabric
and a lining fabric
And I will also be cutting
an interlining
to put in between those
Next I'm working on the collar
for my dress
Now it might have been smarter
to go ahead and make this pattern
before I sewed all the pieces together
But we'll make it work
It'll be fine
So I'm just basically laying out
the neckline of my dress
and using that as a guide
to create a pattern on my muslin
And then I'm just kind of
checking it here
because I did this finagling method
instead of laying out the flat pieces
So I just want to make sure
that it sits all right
and it drapes the way I want it to
Next I'm measuring out
how wide I want the collar to be
And I'm making this
as sort of a generic collar pattern
So I have this for use
on future Burgundian gowns as well
Next I'm cutting out the pattern
from my lovely gold brocade
And I actually decided
to alter it a little bit
and make it a little longer
And then to taper it in
at the front a little bit
sort of like in the portrait
So I'm still leaving my pattern
as the standard
but just extending
as I cut from my brocade
Here I am inserting my sleeves
So I'm just kind of
matching these up
You know, the top of the sleeve
to the armscye of the dress
And then I'm setting those in
and sewing them
And these match up very well
because of the way
my pattern was drafted
Here you can see
how the dress is looking so far
I think it's really lovely
And now I'm kind of seeing
what the collar looks like
to check if I want to
maybe adjust anything
And here I am cutting out
the interlining finally
for my collar
I'm using this fabric
I actually had lying around
It's a white cotton
It's sort of a very light
canvas type of material
And it's working very well
to hold the shape of the collar
and the cuffs
Here I'm cutting out the cuffs
using the pattern that I created
And here are all of my pieces cut out
And some of them are already edged
because I actually attached
the interlining to the lining
And now I'm going to prepare the cuffs
by sewing them into tubes
And then I'm going to sew them together
after they are sewn into tubes
For the collar
I'm not going to sew it into a tube first
Because I do have that front opening
So I don't want it to be connected there
This is what the cuffs look like
After I have sewn them into tubes
And here are my collar pieces
Next I'm going to attach the lining
To the front side of the collar
I'm just pinning this all the way around
And leaving it open in the front
Because I want it to be open
With the opening of the dress
To make the cuffs
I'm actually going to sew them
Wrong sides together at the top here
Because that way
That will be a nice clean seam
Where I can turn it right side out
And then I'll be able to attach the bottoms
By hand onto the sleeves themselves
And here we go
I already sewed these together
And turned them
And they fit quite nicely
On my little wrists
Here's the collar
And I'm going to try to show you
What it looks like on the inside
If you can see there
It's got the interlining
Attached to the lining
And then it's got another layer of brocade
And those are sewn together
And then they are turned right side out
Making sure to clip the corners and the curves
Next I'm going to attach the collar to the dress
So I'm doing this at the neckline
Since that is where a collar belongs
And I'm just making sure that
Everything lines up
And that all of my seams are nice and hidden
I do like to do as much hand stitching
Visibly as possible on my historical garments
So when I'm doing my machine stitching
I try my best to hide it
And on this particular gown
I'm making sure that
All of the machine stitches
Around the top of the garment
Are completely hidden
And as I attach the collar
There is actually some hand sewing that I do
To make sure that the collar is attached
And laying the way it needs to
With only hand stitching visible
Here it is already attached
Yay
And I'll just attach the cuffs here
I'm trimming the collar
Because once I put it on the dress
I decided I actually wanted to change the shape a little bit
So there we go
I did not do a mock up of the collar
And that is kind of silly actually
So that's what I get for that
And now the sleeve cuffs are going on
And I'm actually hand stitching them down here
So that way there are no visible machine stitches
I created the lacing holes in the front of the gown
Off camera because I wasn't feeling well
And I took it over to the bed with me
But I used this all to poke the holes
That way you don't actually ruin the fibers in the fabric
And then I sewed around them all by hand
This is me making finger loop cord
For the front of the dress
And if you'd like to see the full video
On how to do finger loop braiding
I will link to that below
So you can check that out
And get an actual tutorial
This is a historical technique
Used for creating lacing cord
And other pretty finishing cords for garments
Here I am lacing up my dress
Using the spiral lacing method
And a small plastic yarn needle
And when I get to the top
I just tie it off and stick the rest inside the dress
Next I'm working on my belt
This fabric is very very thick
So I'm actually making it single layered
And I'm just kind of trying it on
Looks like about the size I want
Alright
And then I'm making the placket
Also from a single layer of this fabric
These are some cute little metal filigree clasps
I found to attach my belt
There are often belt buckles or clasps on these
And I like the look of these ones
Here I've already sewn the pearls onto the placket
Again off camera
Because I wasn't feeling so well
And I took it into the bed with me
But you can see them
And there is the belt already put on
And those cute metal filigrees
All attached by hand
Alright
A sewing machine shot finally
This is the hem
I decided to hem this by machine
I do sometimes sew my hems by hand
On historical garments
But for this one
I didn't really feel like it
And I think that most people
Aren't looking at my hem
If they are
I kind of wonder
Why they're looking at my hem
But I didn't mind
So here I am
Because this is a curved hem
It is a little bit tricky
To get it to properly behave
What I did is I searched the edge
I know, very historical right
And then I'm using a pin here
To make sure that
That very small folded hem
Kind of stays where I want it
As I am sewing
And I did this
Without ironing it first
Because that little pin method
Is adequate for
This particular fabric I'm using
Now I'm lacing the dress
Back onto the mannequin
Now that it has been hemmed
And I'm ready to do
Some final assembly
Alright, let's get out
Our lovely belt
And put that on
I'm kind of testing
Whether I want to put the clasps
In the front or the back
I ended up picking the back
Because it looks more like the portrait
And here's the placket
Now it's time for jewelry
I found some beads
Which I thought had the look
Of Elizabeth's necklaces
And these are real pearls here
That I'll be using
I'm also using this gold filigree
And these little red dot things
I was not concerned with making
The jewelry 100% historically accurate
I was more concerned with
Getting the look here
So that's why I'm just kind of
Putting it together
The way I think it looks nice
And I'm using E6000
To add here
All of these little stone pieces
It is very, very nice
And holds things together very well
I do highly recommend it
Now I am creating
Those little pearl droplet things
That go on the main pendant
And I'm just doing that
With my pearls here
And some little head pins
That I had already
Here I'm making
That weird little flower thing
On Elizabeth's other necklace
Or at least my version of it
I'm just stringing
These little teardrop shaped beads
Together to try to make them
Into what I think looks right
And I actually did
A couple of attempts here
Before I got it really the way
I wanted it
I ended up putting these on top
Of a gold filigree piece
To stabilize the structure of the flower
And then I used E6000 again
To secure them
I know it's not historically accurate
But again I'm just going for the look here
And then finally I put
A black rhinestone in the center
And finally I decided
To scrap that idea altogether
And start over
So I'm using a larger filigree piece here
Which is gold also
And then I'm actually gluing
Those little teardrop beads on
Individually
Because I didn't like the way
The strung method was working out
So I'm putting on the first four
And then after that
I'm putting on the other four
On top of them
And finally that little black rhinestone
Goes in the center
I created the strands
For this necklace
With those little gold chevron beads
And then I created the string
For the other one
With a piece of black cord
That I already had
In the future a nice touch
Might be to create my own cord
Perhaps using the finger loop braiding method
I can already use
But I think this cord works
Quite well for now
And here I am
Trying on some hat structure
Which is actually gonna be
In the next video
So if you wanna see
How I made the hat for this
You're gonna have to subscribe
Or I mean you don't have to subscribe
But you'll have to come back
For my next video
Which will be all about
Making this crazy hat
Which is known as a henen
I'm really happy with the way
This dress turned out
It was kind of a quick project
Because I'm quite experienced
With making dresses
Of this similar pattern
And I had fun
Kind of changing the pattern
Up a little bit
And really just giving myself
An opportunity to cosplay
A famous person
Like Elizabeth Woodville
Because I mean she was super cool
I hope you guys enjoyed this video
And don't forget to come back
For the hat video next time
And after that
I'll also be showing you guys
How I got dressed
When I put this on
And went to do a fancy photo shoot
So make sure you come back
And find me on all the social media
If you wanna do a shout out there too
And I will see you later
Bye-bye
