Ignitech ignition Install - Kawasaki AR50

Hi, welcome back to my garage, another episode of Carol's Happy Hour 1500 mile an hour project. Today I'm putting this, it's a predominable kidney technician. I'm going to look at making a man out of a plate, doing a wiring, getting a PC connected and getting it going. As always, if you're enjoying these episodes, please consider giving me a subscribe, hit the bell icon and give us a like if you like it. Anyway, I'm going to stop waffling and get to spitting now. So, I'll see you in a bit. Cheers. Change of plan. So, this is the mounting block as it sits. I was going to make some standoffs, however, I'm just going to drill straight through it because I can't afford that and I've got plenty of meat left so I don't need to add anything else on here. And then this aluminium just sits on that little bit there. It's been pressed to give it some rigidity and also that bit there which keeps it nice and level. So, much simpler solution, much easier to do and much quicker and I think it'll achieve exactly the same. Rather annoyingly, I need a bigger machine vice because I couldn't get that width in. Luckily, it'll go down on the bit of machine down. With that overhang, I need some machinist jacks as well. Luckily, I've been able to shim it with a couple of these blocks and hold it in place so it's fairly rigid. I'm happy, it'll be okay. Meanwhile, I'm off the machinist hell because I've put a mill in to a chuck which I shouldn't do. However, it's all lined up, it's in the same place and it's just going to take a plunge cut because there's no real side forces on it. I'm going to go down 6mm, that'll give me a little bit of clearance and also give 6mm of aluminium for the machine screw to apply it onto. So, I'll touch off and then go down 6mm. Let's see if it's any better. That's a lot easier. It's actually got a sharp bit. It's got the mount fitted. It sits there okay. It's nice and rigid. I'm not filming the whole process because it's pretty dumb. But this is another plate of tape. It's got a little bit of compliance to it. This is just Velcro tape and I'm going to obviously put them on there and then I'm going to put some Velcro on the back there. Right, that's the mount on, in place. I've got movement on it. I've put the Velcro on the bottom here, put some on here. So now, I'm going to put that down on there. That's on there. It's not going to come off but as you can see, it's got plenty of compliance there. So, it should take a bit of vibration out. Right, this is the coil. This is the ignition coil. I don't want it on here when I'm using the E-Protect because it's just going to sit around building up charge with nowhere to go. So, the pixies won't get very happy. So, I'm going to unsolder it here and then I should be able to remove this coil. So, I've got the soldering iron on. Let's see what I can do. There, that's that unsoldered. Now, I should be able to simply remove it. Jizz screwdrivers. Best thing I ever bought. Also, I bought them a few years ago because I want to destroy the load of Japanese fasteners. It really does make a massive difference. I recommend it to anyone. There we go. Done. All I need to do is get a bit of the old shrink wrap, put it on there, tape it up. I'll do that off camera, you've seen me do it before. Now, leaving with the pickup, which I hope will provide the signal. It's directly to earth, so hopefully there's a setup. I've not had a look in the program yet for the E-Protect. And then my 12 volt battery basically gets charged off this charging stroke lightning coil that we converted. So, that's my 12 volts into the battery, which should power the CDI. We should get position of the crankshaft from this sensor here. Hopefully, if not, I'll have to come up with a plan B. OK, some new parts have arrived. 30mm Pellini carb. Also, main jet pack. Some pilot jets. And a rubber, so I can attach it on to the carb. 30mm, hopefully that should give us a little bit more power. OK, modified stator in. So, there's only three wires coming out of this now. Which is the two, the yellow and pink for the charging coil. And the green there, but it goes into green-red for the pickup. Hopefully the Ignitech can use that pickup. I've chased it through. Traced it through. This is where the old CDI box went. This is the green-red. And I'm going to connect the Ignitech up to that. And then that should trigger it. OK, this is the original pickup wire. That went to the CDI. This bit plugged into the CDI as part of the connector block. Because I might want to put it back in at some point. I've just soldered the wire onto it. Put a bit of heat wrap, heat shrink over it. And then this bit will connect up to the Ignitech pickup. Right, I thought I'd do a quick tour of the wiring. Before I connect it all up. So, I've got the wires out. This yellow one is the pickup. Orange goes to the coil. This blue one is negative. Which goes to ground on the battery. And this is the main power. Connecting to the positive of the battery. And I do have another one here. I've not got it labelled. But it's one of the ground sensors. The pickup earths through the chassis. However, it says in the instructions that it needs to connect. This earth needs to connect to the earth side of the pickup. So, I've actually wired it through into the status. So, it's a little bit closer. I don't know how much of a difference it would make. However, I thought I'd do it how it says. And see how it works from there. OK, more wiring. This is the original pickup. I soldered this bit on. I'll connect that up to the pickup to the Ignitech. I made this adapter. So, it comes out of here. This goes down to the brake light. But when the ignition is switched on, it gets powered off. When it's switched off, it's not powered off. So, I took my main 12 volt feed off that. All this wiring is protected by this fuse as well. You can see it down there somewhere. So, that is good. Off the stator, I've got blue wire. I'm going to connect that to the earth for the sensor. I'm going to put a connector to here. That's going to be the ground. And then finally, the coil. Which lives all the way down there. There's a connector on the coil. And I'll put a spade on the coil wire. And connect it straight onto that. So, I'm going to do that now and connect it all up. And see if it will work. Right, I've got all that wiring done. I've not fully wrapped it. Because I don't know what modification is going to be doing. But I've tried to neaten it as much as possible. Everything is connected up. I'll give it a start up. And see if I can get this ignition programmed. Right, top dead centre is there. I'm going to go back 100, 200 thou. And then come into this mark that I've made. Which is at 137 thou. Which is there. And I'm going to put a mark on. Magneto at 137. Program 30 degrees into the ignition. And that should trigger. OK, I'm setting the base advance down to 12 degrees for this first run. And as soon as the engine goes above 2000 rpm. It should go to 30 degrees. I've set the advance down to 1 degree. So the light should flash at TDC below 2000 rpm. And above 2000 rpm it should meet the 30 degree mark. Right, 1 degree base. Give her a rev. Thank you Kirsty. Outro. OK, I hope you've enjoyed what I've shown you today. Installing the Ignitech and getting it running. Next is going to be going to the dyno. It's the bit I'm really excited about. And now most of this stuff is going to be the modifications to the bike. Then taking it to the dyno and seeing what happens. So this is the main crux of it. Just trying to get the power so we can get to 100 miles an hour. So as always, if you like the video today. Please leave us a like. Consider subscribing. Hit that bell notification. And let you know when I've been to the dyno. And has it actually given us any more power. So once again, thank you very much for watching. Thanks for all the new subscribers. It's starting to get a few now. So it's really good. And I'll see you next time once I've been to the dyno. Cheers.