The Princess of Nowhere: The Dazzling Jewels of Princess Marie Louise

Princess Marie Louise of Schleswig-Holstein, granddaughter of Queen Victoria, known enigmatically as the Princess of Nowhere. Her life was marked by a childless, unsuccessful marriage and a remarkable collection of jewelry. What is the story behind this intriguing figure? And who dons her exquisite jewelry in the present day? Princess Marie Louise was born on August 12, 1872, at Cumberland Lodge in Windsor, as the fourth child of Princess Helena and Prince Christian of Schleswig-Holstein. Growing up close to her grandmother, Queen Victoria, she had a modest childhood despite royal connections, learning charitable values early on. In November 1890, Princess Louise met Prince Arobert of Anhalt during the wedding of her cousin, Princess Charlotte of Prussia. The two immediately got along, and the charming prince captivated Louise with his endless flirtation. Seven months later, on the 6th of July, 1891, Louise and Arobert got married at St. George's Chapel, Windsor. Princess Marie Louise's marriage to Prince Arobert of Anhalt was fraught with difficulties almost from the start. Prince Arobert often left his wife alone for extended periods, even when they resided under the same roof, choosing to spend his time predominantly with male companions, which fueled rumors about his sexual orientation. Louise herself later wrote, I was not wanted, my presence was irksome to him. This left Princess Marie Louise in a state of social isolation, compounded by the strict and confining protocols of the Berlin court, which clashed with her more free-spirited nature. The culmination of these marital issues led to their marriage being annulled by her uncle, the Duke of Anhalt, in 1900 while Louise was in Canada, reportedly without her prior knowledge or consent. While she was free from her unhappy marriage, Louise viewed her vows as a lifelong commitment, and she continued to wear her wedding ring for the rest of her life. Post-divorce, Louise settled in London, dedicating herself to charity work and crafting jewelry for donations. Following the British royal family's renunciation of German titles in 1917, she became simply Princess Marie Louise, soon gaining the nicknames of Princess of Nowhere by both relatives and commoners. Princess Marie Louise was a dedicated member of the British royal family, having attended the coronations of four British monarchs during her lifetime. She authored her memoir, My Memories of Six Reigns, Marie Louise, Princess, Granddaughter of Victoria, Queen of England, and passed away on December 8, 1956, at the age of 84, shortly after its publication. Despite the complexities of her personal life, Princess Marie Louise maintained an impressive collection of jewelry. The Cartier Indian Tiara Arguably the most stunning piece in the Princess's collection, this tiara, adorned with pearls, diamonds, and sapphires, was crafted in 1923 by Cartier. Initially purchased by Beatrice Mills, the Countess of Grenard, an American heiress married to the Earl of Grenard, this stunning piece was likely influenced by the Earl's close ties to the British royal family, as master of horse to King George V. The design of the tiara reflects the Indian style prevalent in Cartier's creations during that era, inspired by the opulence of Indian Maharajas and architectural motifs. The tiara features graduated mandalas adorned with pearls and accented by brilliant cut sapphires, with the center originally set with aquamarines. In 1937, the Countess of Grenard returned the tiara to Cartier, where it was subsequently bought by Princess Marie Louise. Princess Marie Louise wore it for the coronation of King George VI and Queen Elizabeth in 1937, and continued to wear it for years afterward, most notably for the coronation of Queen Elizabeth II in 1953. Upon her death in 1956, the tiara passed to her godson, Prince Richard, Duke of Gloucester, who inherited it at the age of 12. Since then, the tiara has been primarily associated with the Duchess of Gloucester, Prince Richard's wife. Despite its weight and grandeur, the tiara remains a cherished part of the Gloucester jewelry collection, often worn for prestigious events such as state banquets and royal ceremonies. The tiara has also been exhibited, notably as part of the landmark Cartier exhibition held in Canberra in 2018. Princess Helena Victoria's Honeysuckle Tiara The Honeysuckle Tiara, characterized by 18 ribbon and collet scrolls culminating in a honeysuckle design, was likely crafted for Princess Helena of Schleswig-Holstein, Queen Victoria's third daughter. However, it was never documented on her. The tiara was first publicly worn by her daughter, Princess Helena Victoria, who possibly inherited it in 1923. In 1917, after removing the Schleswig-Holstein designation from her title, Princess Helena Victoria appeared in the tiara at the coronation of King George VI in 1937 and in an official portrait. Following her death in 1948, the tiara was passed to her sister, Princess Marie-Louise. Princess Marie-Louise wore the Honeysuckle Tiara in the 1950s and in portraits by Cecil Beaton. Upon her death in 1956, she left the tiara to her cousin, Lady Patricia Ramsey. Born to the Duke and Duchess of Connaught in 1886, Lady Patricia was related to several European royals and married Alexander Ramsey in 1919, henceforth known as Lady Patricia Ramsey. She wore the tiara at significant royal events, including the 18th birthday of Queen Margrethe of Denmark in 1958. After Lady Patricia's death in 1974, her son auctioned her jewels, including the Honeysuckle Tiara, which fetched £12,000 at a Christie's auction on May 15, 1974. Diamond Sunburst Brooch Adorned with sparkling rays emanating from a central diamond cluster complemented by a smaller pendant, Queen Victoria originally owned the Diamond Sunburst Brooch. She received this splendid jewel upon ascending to the throne. In 1896, the Duchess of Connaught was spotted wearing this radiant diamond brooch at the coronation of Tsar Nicholas II of Russia in 1896. Following Queen Victoria's death in 1901, the brooch was bequeathed to Princess Marie Louise, who wore it for decades, including at the coronation of Queen Elizabeth II in 1953 and in a series of portraits by Cecil Beaton. Princess Marie Louise also lent the Diamond Sunburst Brooch to her sister, Princess Helena Victoria, for the wedding ball of Crown Prince Frederick of Denmark and Princess Ingrid of Sweden in 1935. The Queen Mother inherited Queen Victoria's Diamond Sunburst Brooch, donning it for the French state visit in 1960 and a family portrait released to celebrate the silver wedding anniversary of the Queen and Duke of Edinburgh in 1972. In 2002, Queen Elizabeth II inherited the Diamond Sunburst Brooch, but she has never been seen wearing it publicly. In 2021, Queen Camilla, then the Duchess of Cornwall, donned Princess Marie Louise's Diamond Sunburst Brooch at the world premiere of James Bond's No Time to Die at the Royal Albert Hall in London. Moreover, Camilla wore the brooch during a Vogue photoshoot, for the July 2022 issue. The Cartier Stomacher Cartier's records reveal that Princess Marie Louise was a devoted customer who made several notable acquisitions. Among her purchases was a significant Diamond Pearl and Onyx Brooch. This piece featured a prominent button pearl at the center of an ornately designed hexagonal diamond panel with trefoil ends and black onyx accents, complete with a matching tassel adorned with diamonds and black onyx that ended in a fringe of pear-shaped diamonds. Purchased by Princess Marie Louise in the 1920s or 30s, this art deco brooch with intricate onyx detailing was worn by Princess Helena Victoria at the 1935 Wedding Ball for Crown Prince Frederick of Denmark and Princess Ingrid of Sweden, as well as at King George VI's coronation in 1937. Following Princess Helena Victoria's passing, Princess Marie Louise frequently wore the Cartier Stomacher during the 1950s and for various Cecil Beaton portrait sessions. Upon her death, Princess Marie Louise bequeathed the brooch to her cousin Lady Patricia Ramsey, who ultimately auctioned it at Christie's. Notably, the brooch's diamond and onyx tassel were missing at the time of sale. Princess Marie Louise also owned a pair of diamond and onyx clips, possibly crafted by Cartier, featuring a trefoil design. These were prominently displayed on the neckline corners in a 1953 portrait by Cecil Beaton. The Diamond Star Brooch Here are three pieces from Princess Marie Louise's collection that were sold by the Gloucesters in 1975. This brooch was one of several diamond star brooches given to Princess Marie Louise as wedding presents when she married Prince Aribert of Anhalt in 1891. This particular brooch was a gift from the town of Windsor, close to her childhood home at Cumberland Lodge in Windsor Great Park. At Windsor Town Hall, upon receiving the gift, Princess Marie Louise expressed her gratitude. I thank you for this beautiful gift, which I shall always cherish as a memento of my English home. Designed by Dyson and Sons of Windsor, the brooch features a seven-pointed star adorned with laurel branches, crafted from 148 top-quality brilliance. It is presented in a light blue velvet case, embossed with the initials of the bride and groom. The star could be worn as a brooch, pendant, or hair ornament. On her wedding day, Princess Marie Louise wore the Diamond Star Brooch at the center of her bodice. The Diamond Star Brooch made a more significant appearance at the coronation of Queen Elizabeth II in 1953. The second piece is a Pearl and Diamond Bracelet. Three of the pearls are accented by an emerald rondelle, faceted emerald bead. The last piece is a Diamond Brooch with a central trefoil of diamonds enclosed by a ribbon with trefoil terminals and an outer frame of graduated and alternate circular and pear-shaped collets, and suspending at the base, two collet pendant drops. Pearl Choker When Princess Marie Louise wed Prince Eribert of Anhalt in 1891, she received a Pearl and Diamond Choker from her parents, Princess Helena and Prince Christian of Schleswig-Holstein, which could also be transformed into two bracelets. On her wedding day in Windsor, Princess Marie Louise adorned herself with this versatile pearl choker. By the 1930s, she frequently wore the pieces as pearl bracelets at gala events and portrait sessions, including at the 1937 coronation of King George VI, complemented by her new Cartier India Tiara. The bracelets made another notable appearance at the coronation of Queen Elizabeth II in 1953. In 1954, during the Swedish state visit to Britain, Princess Marie Louise paired the pearl bracelets with the Cartier India Tiara for various engagements, including a series of portraits taken by Cecil Beaton. This pearl choker was inherited by Queen Elizabeth II. The Queen was seen wearing a remarkably similar pearl and diamond bracelet on several occasions in the 1960s. Following her demise, most of her jewels are now held by King Charles. Given that Queen Camilla has recently worn the diamond sunburst brooch, there is anticipation that this elegant pearl piece will soon be showcased again. 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