We think Guerrero Negro is Baja California’s most underrated town. So many people stop here for a single night, but we think it’s worth a longer stay because of the delicious food and diverse activities found here. It’s more than just whales.
0:00 Chapters 1:29 Military checkpoint experience in Baja 2:27 We're here and it's windy 5:22 A puddle inside the trailer 8:05 Gray whale watching in Baja 11:33 Guerrero Negro food tour 15:00 Camp tour at Ojo de Liebre Lagoon, Guerrero Negro 17:20 Guerrero Negro Salt Works tour 18:45 Guerrero Negro is great for re-provisioning most things 19:46 Bloopers
So we had a near disaster. Put my hand in like a puddle of water. Yeah I think we have a broken
wind barrier. Hi we're Mel and Jay. Together with our cat Benny we're traveling the Baja Peninsula
all the way to Cabo and back. This is our adventure in Guerrero Negro, the most underrated town in Baja
where we make friends with whales, discover the food scene, and tour the world's largest
This truck in front of us looks quite unsafe. He just trimmed another tree.
He's loaded up with rebar and he's like loaded heavily to the right side. He's hugging the right
side of the road. Oh I just saw him take a sign. He just hit a sign and it flipped. Oh man. Yeah
So Mel's gonna get a little more b-roll of this. Here he's coming up to another sign I think.
Here we go. Here we go. After he hit that one he's probably being more cautious now.
There we go. Yeah we're keeping our distance. It's a no bueno situation. Yeah it doesn't look safe.
At least it looks really unsafe to us. I don't know. We aren't truck drivers. If you're a truck
driver and you think that this is okay then please let us know.
Oh all done? Yeah. Oh okay. Benny saved us some time today. Good boy bubble.
So this might look like snow but that's actually salt. That's a lot of salt. This whole trench
looks like we're back in Canada. We're here and it's windy. Gotta check if the trailer is at the
right angle for the wind though. Basically want our slide pointing right towards the wind.
There we go. I think that's gonna do it. How's it look? Oh the trailer is acting as the perfect
wind block. We'll get our little beach fence under on the other side to block the wind
coming from underneath the trailer and this is going to be perfect.
Good morning. The wind has died down just a little bit this morning and so we're gonna
take advantage of that and go for a little walk and we're bringing Benny with us.
So it's a little bit cooler than some of the temperatures we had down south.
It's about 13 degrees celsius. We're quite bundled as you can see. However, currently at home they're
experiencing a snowstorm so we can hear the tiny violins. Yeah we still feel pretty fortunate to
be down here. Yeah. Beautiful views and it should warm up to at least 20 or so today.
That's some pretty crazy wind. So what's happening? I woke up to
like what sounded like water dripping and as I put my hand on the window
I put my hand in like a puddle of water. Amazingly our wind fence is still standing
in these gusts. The wind is so strong that it's blowing the rain
directly under the tiny little vents in the window frame. Yeah we've never seen that before.
Wow what a crazy windstorm last night. It was just howling and howling. It was rocking the
trailer back and forth. Thankfully though we're getting pretty good at knowing how to park in the
wind. We knew that the wind was coming from the northwest which is exactly that way. Probably some
of the strongest winds that we've been in. It looks like the wind barrier actually toppled
slightly right here in the middle. I couldn't see this last night. Oh boy. Yeah I think we have a
broken wind barrier. It actually snapped. Well that's really sad. This wind barrier has been so
good for us. So yeah one casualty of the wind. Starlink was swinging around a little bit but
it's held quite nicely. And yeah the weather report says that was pretty much the worst of
the wind. It's going to get a little better from here on in so fingers crossed. Here's hoping that's
actually accurate. It's a decent size so there's apparently more than 1,200 whales here. We're
going to walk out to the end of this pier here. We're expecting it to be very windy. I'm seeing
some whale poofs. Whale poofs? A whale poof. That's when they breathe and they go poof.
Well there's lots of whales out there but we've decided it's not exactly ideal watching conditions
so I think we're going to retreat back to the trailer. What do you think?
Okay let's go. Every winter gray whales from Alaska migrate to the shallow warm lagoons of
Baja to mate and deliver their young. The spectacle attracts hundreds of tourists between the months
of January through March because the Baja lagoons are the only place in the world where gray whales
approach small boats to purposely interact with people. So we came here to see some whales
on Monday. It is now Thursday. We don't know for sure if they're going out yet. We can see a boat
but we think they're maybe just kind of scouting to see if the conditions are okay. So we had a
near disaster. I was figuring that they would take card but it's cash only so I had to run
back to the trailer and get some extra cash but now we're good so...
Waving at us. Oh my gosh.
Okay tail, go tail.
Oh my god. Oh yeah.
Yeah there's a spray. There's a big one.
Love's a baby and a mother.
Is it two or three? At least two. There's at least two.
Well all that whale watching has worked up a bit of an appetite so we are gonna go on a food tour
now of Guerrero Negro. We got some recommendations from some friends, thanks Joe and Carla, who have
already been here and told us the top picks for where to go and eat. So we've just arrived to
our first stop on today's food tour in Guerrero Negro and we have been advised to try the torta.
These sound amazing. So we've just sat down and this place is packed. We just got the last seat.
All right our quesa torta has arrived. I'm really glad that we only got one to share.
Oh my god. This is like the best roast beef sandwich you will ever have. Now we are at
Carlitos Birria Ria and we have been recommended to try the papas rellenos, which is a stuffed
baked potato. Oh my gosh this looks amazing. Wow. So what we've done, what they've done here is
they've got baked potato and then they've put on top birria meat and some kind of sauce and corn.
He told us we should eat it with the quesadillas that we've got here. The potato and the meat.
Take some onion. Cabbage? I think it's cabbage. Some cilantro and then we've got some kind of
other sauce. Oh this is going to be hot. I see lots of like chili pieces. A little squeeze of lime.
That's my new favorite way to eat birria. Okay well that was absolutely delicious as well,
but not only that the guys here working were just like the nicest guys ever. They came over to our
table and started chatting us up. You know there was a language barrier between on both sides here
but we managed to to you know have some nice conversation and they made some recommendations
for other places for us to check out in the area. How cool is that? All right so these first two
stops that we went to you have to get here early because they close at 2 30 in the afternoon so
they're more of like a brunch lunch kind of thing. The next stop though is open later. I think they're
open till 5 or 5 30. So we have reached our third stop here at Tacos El Muelle and it's a food truck
stop.
I don't know what they put in that bottle but it's really good. I ordered. They told me to wash my
hands and the next thing I knew they were handing me food. I forgot to pay and they didn't ask.
So maybe we should go pay. So now we'll go pay.
Well now that we are sufficiently stuffed we can go back to the trailer and have a nap.
All right it's time for our camp tour. When you get here you'll find a row with a whole
bunch of different campsites all along. Now the first few have palapas. They cost a little bit
more and they're also closer to the museum and site where you go to buy your whale tickets. If
you come on further past the palapas then there are campsites and they are more than large enough
for probably multiple rigs. We are staying on campsite number nine and then dotted along at
almost every campsite there is a garbage bin and every maybe second campsite there's an outhouse.
So not too shabby. The nearest dumping station is in town. Same with water, everything. So any kind of
resources that you need you have to go into town. That's somewhere between a 30 to 45 minute drive
away from here. So come prepared. The road is hard packed. Sand so it's decent to drive on. We're not
going to get stuck. It is a bit bumpy though we'll warn you about that. You'll also note there are
some stands with huge nests on top. Those are for the osprey. Otherwise the main attraction here is
to see the whales. I should mention that all of the sites here are on a first-come first-served
basis and you pay at the gate when you first arrive. It's 100 pesos a night and that's it.
Well it's our last full day in Ojo de Libra, the lagoon with all the whales here.
And we finally had really nice weather. It was super calm this morning. We've got our nice wind
block here with the trailer. But now we're gonna head into the town of Guerrero Negro for a little
bit more exploring. Now most people come to Guerrero Negro just to see the whales. But
there are other things to do here like the food tour that we did.
Right now we're gonna go and take a tour of the salt works.
Salinas Los Amarcos is the world's largest sea salt factory exporting over 150 million dollars
of sea salt each year. Sea water is pumped into the 77 ponds on the premises and allowed to
evaporate. It takes about one and a half to two years before the salt that's left behind can be
harvested. And harvesting takes place 24 hours a day, 365 days a year using these massive machines
that can hold 120 metric tons of salt in each bin. The salt is then washed and stored.
That's a lot of salt. Until it's shipped to buyers.
We haven't stayed in too many RV parks on this trip but it was good here in Guerrero Negro to
stay this one night so we could get gas, propane, water, and also dump our tanks.
Because next we're heading out to an area with not that many services. So we want to make sure
we have everything going into that section. We also did a grocery run and stocked up our fridge
and cupboards because we're not sure what the stores are going to be like on this next little
section of our journey. Even here in this fairly big town we tried to get eggs and the two big
grocery stores that they have both out of eggs. So hopefully some of the smaller stores along the way
will have some. Well we're all packed up, hitched up, and we've done all our chores here so we're
ready to go. Next week though we will be checking out one of the other surf towns in the area but
we are going to check out Santa Rosalita. We'll see you then. We've just arrived to
Biriri... I can't even say the word. So we've just arrived to Biriria...
This is like a tongue twister like I cannot say it. So it's a little bit cooler than some of the
So now we are at Carlito's Biri... oh I still got it wrong. Biriria. And that's it. Make sure you
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