my WORST boulder session

Extreme Slab Climbing
56 followers
Oct 17, 2024
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My worst bouldering session ever! Magnus Midtbø climbs at Gneis
Music and Sound Effects: http://share.epidemicsound.com/vSnfn
Shot by Magnus Midtbø, edited by Markus Skaane
Okay, so I'm at my newest gym in Oslo. This is actually the first time I'm trying the key,
so let's hope it works. It works. Look at that. So the gym is closed now. It's currently 10 o'clock.
I'm excited to try the new boulders today. Hopefully there are some new ones because
today is the beginning of the month. So one more. I just love it when it works, you know.
That's not a good start. Falling on red doesn't exactly give me confidence, but I think I should
have done it differently too. I should have come in here, go again. That would have been better.
But that move was definitely pretty committing. Oh, that's much easier.
If it wasn't for the cameras, I would probably have done it even one more time because I still
didn't feel like I did it technically perfect. I mean, you're never going to do anything
technically perfect, but closer to technically perfect, I feel like that should have felt way
easier, that move going to the left. I hear there's a red slab. That looks insanely hard.
I haven't even seen beta on Instagram or anything of how you do that, so that might take me a lot
of tries, but that's the point of bouldering, as you guys know. So I'm not sure how this looks on
camera. I do think it's one of those that, like, it doesn't look so bad on camera, but when you
look at it up close, the holes are terrible. Like, that hole is terrible. I think what you're
supposed to do is catch a toe hook here, but having to match that, like, smear on that and
match and go there, like, looks really hard to me. Again, shout out to the route setters at this gym.
Really good, the route setting, and the gym is really good. It looks really nice and clean, and
in my opinion, it's the most beautiful climbing gym in the world. Let me know if you agree or not.
Oh my god, that feels so weird, like, going for that and throwing out the... because I don't think
you can catch it without the toe hook here. I wonder what this hole is for. You can't really use it.
I think it's just a foothold. Wow, that is really committing. I think I'm going to move you over to
the other side so you can see the toe hook better. So again, there's just a lot of things to think
about at once, but catching that, matching, catching that, perfect, getting close to the wall, and
getting that toe in all at the same time, it's pretty damn hard. Some of the problems that I'm
trying later are going to be really physical though. There's one over there, starting with
the yellow holes. It's one of the craziest moves I've ever seen. If I can do it, I think
you guys are going to be amazed by how cool it is. Probably not be amazed by this slab because
I feel pretty far away. This is a hard red, but that's the point of it. I'm only going to give it
a couple more tries and then I'm going to switch to that physical boulder and then come back on
this. I don't like getting stuck for too long at one boulder, so it helps sometimes to walk
away for a little bit. Step away and try something else and then come back to it.
That's going to be cool. I know how you're supposed to do this because I've seen it on Instagram and
stuff. It's very acrobatic. Oh my god, it's so much further than it looks. I thought I would
just be able to spin it. You're supposed to jump into that like that. I wonder if that's even
possible. Oh my god. Take off my shirt. Oh my god. Yeah, that's what you do.
Oh, I hit my knee. Oh god. I need to get the right direction on the swing.
I don't get the right direction. I think that's maybe the way. I don't know how it looks on
camera, but when I walked up to it, I thought that I could probably just swing my foot over.
When you're hanging from that position, it feels so much further than it looks.
I don't think there's any other way. You see the top of that volume is blocked.
I think if the blue holes weren't there, then you could probably just dino or campus up and just
cheat the whole sequence. With those blue holes on top, you can't do that because
then you would touch the blue holes and those are not on the boulder.
Oh yeah, that was the right swing. I don't know if it's pushing or pulling with this hand
to get the right direction because if I'm just like too loose. Yeah, now I got it.
Oh yeah, that was close. Probably I need to get my foot further out so I can really
press with my feet as well for a short little break. Oh, that was so close. Well, actually,
I don't know if it's close or not. Now I'm starting to doubt if it's close. I wonder if
the top is hard. I hope not because that would suck to fall on the top. No, that was way off.
Oh yeah, that was close. Okay, just a short break. We'll be right back and we are back
for attempt number, I'm not sure, 15 maybe. The whole trick is to aim further out like I
talked about in the beginning but now I like really focus on that and it makes a big difference.
Look, I think that's the first time I'm bleeding in here because of that huge jug that you kind
of like do this on. I can't remember the last time I started bleeding in here. I like the better the
climber, the further out you bleed. The really good climbers bleed out here and then the average
climber bleeds in here. The beginner bleeds here. This is worse than a beginner. This is
not even a climber, this bleeding right here. Okay, this is maybe the time.
Oh no. Right now it's past the point where it's fun to try it but I do feel like I can get this
and yeah, the more you try something the more rewarding it is when you finally send.
So I think this is going to be pretty rewarding now.
That was terrible. Oh my god, that was just getting worse. Now I'm actually starting to
doubt whether or not I can do this. It's crazy how it goes in waves.
After last break I was sure that I was going to send it. Now I'm like, yeah, I'm not sure.
A little bit closer again but I don't know, I'll probably just get tired on that move.
Yeah, that was good. Look, that was closest I've been, I think, maybe.
I'll take a little break from that boulder. I think I need a... I don't know what's going on
today but I'm not doing anything. So this is a system where you go from green being very easy
and all the way up to red being the hardest. So it's like progression starts with the same holds.
It's pretty cool. It's very cool for an easy boulder. That is a hard blue, that last move.
Now it's going to get hard. Usually I feel stronger when I film stuff but
today I don't feel that strong. Or I do feel strong, I just feel like I don't do anything.
Just feel clumsy on the wall but I do feel strong. Okay, now just the hardest one. So we're actually
debating where we should go next to make videos. We have thought about potentially going to China.
I think that's pretty cool because it's like a closed country. I don't really know much about
climbing or anything but I see that the Chinese team is doing better and better every year.
It would be cool to check that out. It would also be cool to do something in Europe.
Like we thought about maybe doing something around the Alps, you know. Maybe potentially
with some professional climbers. South America could be cool potentially. For me at least,
it's so much easier when I travel to somewhere to come up with new ideas for videos. But then
again, Norway would be cool too. We have so many cool places in Norway to climb and just
nature in general that I feel like I should take advantage of that somehow. So yeah, if you guys
have any suggestions on where we could go, please leave comments below. I'm not saying
that to create engagement. I'm saying that because a lot of times actually I go
through comments and I see people suggesting video ideas and there are some good suggestions
once in a while. I don't know if that's how you were intended to do it because it didn't feel
that hard when you just stick that instead of trying to go again. I guess I need to go back to
finish this one. I don't know if I can though to be honest. Now I've got a little bit of a
strange swing. I felt so close and then it almost feels like I'm getting worse.
I also gotta remember to rest enough between the attempts.
Oh my god, come on. Come on. What the hell did I hit? I hit something on my backswing.
What am I doing wrong? I hit my hip and then it's like throwing off the direction
completely. That is so annoying. Sorry for swearing by the way. Oh, that was close.
No. Oh, I thought I had it. Shit. Okay, I guess I can't give up. Okay, try number 154.
It's actually not far from it. It is actually nice to use this volume because then when you
jump to this hold you get a little bit of a swing so you don't have to generate everything yourself.
Okay, I'll try the other hard one.
So we'll see if I can do this one then.
That actually felt pretty good. It's really cool though. It's like so hard to find or it's really
hard to set a boulder like this because you need to find the exact right angle. If this was just a
little bit better you could just like campus it statically and if it was a little bit worse it
would be impossible. This is also like a typical comp boulder. This was actually set for a comp
here. I really have to brush the shit out of this one because it's like so friction dependent.
Normally I don't brush that much or I do brush much but not this much. Oh man, I'm so exhausted
from that other boulder. Let's hope I can do this. That would kind of save the day for me.
Okay, I think I'm going to try to change the sequence. I'm going to go left, right, left and then left again.
Oh, what is today? Going again left feels weird. I think it has to be the cross.
So I'll just stick to the same method then. Going, crossing. Oh, maybe I should give up. It's 1am.
Oh my god. Oh my god. Oh my. That was so unexpected. I had no...
Oh shit, I've just given up all hope today. Oh, that was nice.
This is probably the hardest I've had to work in a very long time, especially for a second
channel video. This is pretty brutal. I feel exhausted now and it's quarter past 1am.
This is taking a lot of time but I'm stubborn. I'm not giving up. I do want to get this one.
Okay, I think this is going to be one of the last attempts. I don't think I can keep trying
this for that much longer. Oh, that felt good actually. Now I can't give up. Now I'm starting
to feel good. Look at my hands though. It's like now I have one here, one there and one here.
All from that jog. I'm just hoping that eventually I'm just going to stick it
and it's just going to be really surprising, kind of like the other one
where, I don't know, I do something a little bit different. I hit it perfect or something.
I hit my hip against that. Why do I hit my... You know what? I'm going to give up.
I'm not going to do this today. It's annoying but it's the first, it's like one of the first
boulders that I give up on on video in a long time. Sometimes it's like that. You can't do it.
Hopefully I can come back and do it another day or something. Maybe I should still try to get the
red one though because I don't want to leave two problems undone. I do think this is a really hard
problem though. Okay, you just got to trust the foot there. Damn it, that is hard. I think you
have to commit more than you think though. That's what I did this time. This is a humbling session.
You know, I was debating whether or not to just stop filming and not even publish this video
because I always feel like if I don't send the hardest problems and stuff, it's not that
interesting. But I do think that, I don't know, I think it's good to show that once in a while.
Just struggling because I feel like everyone can relate to that. Not every session is a good
session so it makes sense to show you guys that too. You know what, I don't think I'm going to do
this one either. This was not my best session but hopefully you guys enjoyed it. I think it's good
to be honest sometimes and show you guys the bad sessions as well, not only the good ones.
So I hope you enjoyed it. Thank you guys for watching. See you next time.
I'm toast. Oh my god, I feel wrecked.
Really, really sore and tired and a little bit embarrassed. My ego is bruised a little bit.
Jesus.
