Testpiece Climbing #118; What Makes a Climb Good and All About Routesetting with Ward Byrum

Ward Byrum is the Director of Routesetting for all Movement gyms in the East Region. Yes, that Movement. The biggest climbing gym chain in America and probably the world. That means that Ward and his team decide what the climbing will be like for thousands of climbers. Scratch that, ten’s of thousands of climbers. It might even be hundreds of thousands of climbers or even millions! But hey, who’s counting? The climbs his team puts up will likely be their first experience of climbing and quite possibly the only climbing they ever do.

Tune in and hear what the principles are behind one of the biggest route setting programs to ever have been created. And hear about it directly from Ward, who has been behind the scenes during the incredible evolution of indoor climbing and setting these past few decades.

SHOW NOTES:
Ward’s Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/therealskilla/
Movement Gyms: https://movementgyms.com/
ReTex Holds: https://www.holdretex.com


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0:00 Podcast Intro
2:12 Ward's Role and Influence in Climbing
22:29 Routesetting Fundamentals
49:51 The Types of Climbs at Movement Gyms
1:00:33 Creative Constraints and Aesthetics
1:19:46 Indoor vs. Outdoor Climbing Grades
1:38:15 The Future of Routesetting
1:56:33 Advice for Aspiring and Experienced Setters
2:03:58 Creating Memorable Climbing Experiences
2:11:58 How to go from Good to Great