粉彩肖像教程...值和色度〜第 2 部分

書道雅集
10粉絲
7 次觀看·2024年8月26日
Pastel Portrait Tutorial...Values and Chroma ~ Part 2. Narrated Tutorial with some realtime footage.
Hi there, thank you so much for clicking the thumbnail and being interested in my work.
In this video I share with you my techniques and tips on how I achieve the background
and the rich colours and details in this portrait of my nephew, Russell.
Be sure to watch it right through till the end because here and there I'll be slowing things down in real time
so you can take a closer look.
So let's dive in and take a look.
Right, following on from part one, I decided to do the background first
before I start putting the colours in the face and the beard.
So I've selected a few greys from the Carbophella range.
Yellow, ochre, brown, a couple of blues and a red to start with to mix with the greys.
My approach first was to put the greys down and then glaze over the top then
and mix in with the primary colours.
I'm speeding this section up a little.
I'm just using the 708 which I use for the outline, a grey pencil from Carbophella.
Drawing in with that and then using different greys
and then just glazing over them with blue and orange.
So I tried that to see because complementary colours will create subtle shadows
so I tried that for a bit.
It's like a play to start with.
You're just playing with it to see what works.
So I decided to try these pencils using the lemon yellow and that warm blue there
and that seemed to work better.
Still using the grey.
Why use the grey and the white with?
It was to actually make the actual value.
So you're trying to create the right value
and then once you've got the value more or less
then you can just glaze over them with these different subtleties
with the blues, the yellows and the reds and so on.
Let's lock down to real time now
just to show you how I'm creating the texture of this.
Just using the white to get that texture first
then just glazing over it in this instance with yellow ochre
and then a bit of red to warm it up a little bit.
And then just keep working on that sort of value with the grey
and then just keep repeating the process of just getting that texture down
and then just keep glazing over these different shades.
And then it creates a very subtle blend of natural colour tints.
Now sometimes I use a white or sometimes I use a light grey
just to get the highlights in there.
It's just a case of playing to see what works
and then this is how I'm glazing here
just showing you here in real time
just going through over with the blue and then the yellow
to create like a greeny tinge.
I'm mixing that red and brown
and blue and brown make natural shadows as well
so that's a really good combination.
Now here's the colours I'm using for this top
two different reds
and the two different brand names are black
the one's more sort of deeper
the Caran d'Ache one is a deeper black
but mainly using the Carbothelos to start with
but just mixing in the cold red
and then the warm red together
which creates the correct shade then.
Just adding a little bit of white for the highlight
and then just glaze over again with the warmer red
and then a little bit of cold red on top
and it seemed to have done the trick.
For the subtle shadows in the red
I've used a dark green and red
and putting that up against the actual shadow
so it subtly blends in.
Now for a little bit of a beard
see I'm trying to get those darker areas in first
then it makes it easier then to judge the values
for the skin tone.
So now for the beard I'm using dark brown
blue, a cold red in there as well
and warm red.
There's all sorts of colours going in there
just to try and create the correct shade.
Just line it down to real time
just to show you how I'm drawing it out now
with the white
and then I'll just glaze over the top
so you're just, you know, redefining
what you've already done in the underdrawing
and then just keep going against it with black
and then glaze over with the subtle browns and blues
and just keep working on it
until it develops really.
It's just a case of keep persevering
that's the key
and it will develop eventually.
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Now what I'm doing as well is
squinting my eyes to see the values
and then open my eyes to see the colour
so I'm flipping from one to the other
and just being aware of the whole image
I'm keeping the reference image small enough
so I can see the whole of it
so I can get the overall feel
but the side of that on my computer
I've actually opened up another file
exactly the same
but just blown it up bigger
so I can see it for the details
so it's like just being there
just so you know what sort of detail is there
but then just go back to the smaller image
and just be as suggestive
rather than too detailed.
Now I've got the darkest values done
Now it's time to do the flesh tone now
it gives me an idea of what to do
I'm using the green here
with the red and yellow ochre
Now if you haven't got the Caran d'Ache pencils
just press on more and put more pigment down
that will create more sort of richness
because this is a rich stage
rich colour stage
Now I'm using these Caran d'Ache rich colours
They're very rich in pigment
I really like Caran d'Ache for this
You don't have to put too much pressure on
to get that sort of pigment down as well
So I'm using the cold red and the warm red together
with the dark green
just to get that shadow I'm looking for
If you're new to my videos
I use green to desaturate a red
It's a complementary colour
So if you use a complementary colour
or every colour you're using
it creates a natural shadow
So that's why I'm using the green here
Now if you can't get it dark enough
I tend to use brown and blue with that
which you'll see me do later in this video
Now it's a great combination
the warm red which is vermilion in this case
and yellow ochre in the Caran d'Ache range
a really great combination
It really makes lovely warm skin tones
Now I'm using a Chinese white here
It's like a warm white
It's got a touch of yellow in it
And it really does suit the skin tone
I'm just doing very small circles
Getting that texture
Then I'll just keep glazing over
Then small circles again
Glaze over, small circles, glaze over
Until you get the desired effect
Now because it's a warmer skin tone
I'm using olive green here
To mix in with the red
It seems to suit it better
You have to keep trying
These different temperatures of the colours
Just to see what works best
It's just trial and error really
You've just got to keep persevering
And playing really
Every stage is like a play
First of all when you start doing the rich stage
It's all like a blocking
It's not details
It's just getting that sort of value right
And the chroma right
And once you're happy with the chroma and the value
Then you can start putting the details in
Now there's a reflective light of blue
Into the skin on the shadows here
So I'm using ultramarine blue light
And darken in some places
Just to reflect that
So it's like using primary colours really
You've got yellow ochre as your yellow
Your vermilion red as the red obviously
And the blue as ultramarine blue
And with those three colours
They make really nice skin tones
And then I use olive green
Which is a secondary colour
A complementary colour of red
I use that to subtle and desaturate
What I tend to do is work on
The brightest areas of the skin
And the dark areas at the same time
So you get a sort of happy medium then
And sort of get an idea of how it feels
So I'm going to the shadow
Then going into light
And getting that sort of relationship right
And then work from that
Now with a lot of warm light on this portrait
The shadows tend to be cooler
Now the reference image you're seeing on screen here
Is on the computer
So it is oversaturated
And the contrast is too dark
It's just how it's filmed
But in real life
If I were doing that from life
The shadows are never that dark anyway
The always more interesting shadows
Is more light and reflected light
So when you do things from life
You tend to remember how things look
And how they are
And so you can adjust photographs accordingly
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Now with the reflective light
On this part of the portrait
I'm using the white
To sort of get that feel of it
Then just glaze over the top
Then just using brown
To get that sort of very sort of fine hair
Because it's actually been graded
On the side there
Slowing it down to real time now
So you can see how I'm putting the details in here
I'm just working on it
And restructuring what I've done
On the under drawing
And then glaze over them
Once I've got the position more accurate
And the flow more
Doing the hair is all about getting the flow
And the movement
And getting that right
And then once you've got that
You can just glaze over
I've got burnt sienna here
And then yellow ochre
I'm just glazing over with
Now revisiting the reflected light
Putting a bit more in there
And then starting to put a bit more black in there
Now as well in the hair
To get that contrast
Because it's the contrast
That gives it that realism
If you don't get that contrast right
The darkest darks and the lightest lights
It don't feel natural
It feels a bit flat
So getting those correct is really important
Here I'm getting that vibrancy
By putting the Caran d'Ache
5% flesh tone in there
And then I'll use 5%, 10%
And flesh tone
All those three different combinations
All it is is like yellow ochre mix
With a bit of red
But different sort of proportions
It just helps with me getting the texture
Rather than trying to mix it
By adding so many different layers
I can just put that down first
Get that sort of vibrancy
Then when I glaze over the top
That vibrancy shines through the colour then
And it creates really a natural skin tone
It gives it life to it
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Excuse my tone of voice at the moment
Because I must have picked up a flu virus
And it's steadily got worse
As I've started this narration
So just bear with me
Just make allowances for it
But basically I'm feeling that
This video is getting a bit long now
So I'll start speeding it up
It's only repeating what I've already said
So you can just visually see what I've done
Just to mention that
I am using lemon yellow
To create the chroma in certain areas
It's all about the values, chroma
Our things are more sort of fresher and brighter
And some colours are more subdued as well
But by adding that little lemon yellow
Into the mix
It creates that sort of zinginess
And it glows
And it's a really good tip
And I found it seems to work
With every colour you use
Just adding that little bit of lemon yellow
Not a lot, it just lifts it all up
Now to create the vibrancy of the lips
I'm using a cold and warm red from the Caran d'Ache
Plus a cold and warm green
To create the shadows or desaturation
Sometimes you need to use both reds
It's a case of playing around really
But I use the green to create a natural shadow
Again I'm using the Caran d'Ache white there
To create that sort of glow underneath
If you haven't got a Caran d'Ache white
A Faber-Castell white is really good
Because that's quite vibrant
I tend to use the Carbothello white
To sort of blend things out
Because it's more of a neutral sort of white
Not sort of vibrant
So it's really good for blending
Then I just glaze over again
That's what I use it for
It's quite chalky
Now I'm just going to rush through this
Because it's the same procedure
As what I've done with the hair
You're just putting the white down
Glaze over, white down, glaze over
Getting the structure correct
And just correcting it all the time
And just being aware of the whole thing
So you're really connecting to the energy
And the feeling of the character of the person
So even though you're just doing the beard
You're actually feeling the movement to that beard
The texture of it
And trying to create that
By feeling it
It sort of flows through you
And out your hands you see
So it's best to really be conscious
Of what you're drawing
But as a whole
So it feels whole then when you've finished it
Now the waterfall here
I'm using a light grey
And the 708 grey that I used for the outline
And then just doing a tonal drawing first
To get an idea of the values
And then I'm glazing over them
With the primary colours
To create that subtle sort of rainbow effect
And there's all sorts of different subtleties
But I found just using these sort of
Basic primary colours over the top
It just makes all the difference
Now I used a Caran d'Ache azurite white
Because it's a fresher white
Than the Chinese white
For the highlights of this waterfall
And then used the Carbothello ones
To smooth everything out
To create that sort of misty feel to it
Now I'm using the same procedure
For the rock formation
In front of the waterfall here
Using the 708 Carbothello grey and white
To create like a tonal drawing
Then once I'm happy with the actual
Tonal value of it
I'm going over them with brown
Cold red, green and blues
And lemon yellows
And all sorts of different colours
But the thing is with grey tone
It don't muddy the colour up
When you actually add colours on top
So it's really good to do
If you've got something complicated
Just doing it in grey first
And then just going over with colour
You can't go wrong
Just quickly going through this again
For you on this top
Using the black, the Carbothello black
And then mixing the two reds together
The cold red and the warm red together
Then using dark green in certain areas as well
To get the subtle shadows
Now all the picture is more or less complete
It gives me time now to get the details correct
In the beard and in the face
Because I've got the values and everything now
I can sort of connect to and be one with
So I'm basically going over the beard
And putting the freshness again in there
And then just glazing over them
With the burnt sienna and brown
So putting the little highlights
And little wisps here and there
Putting lemon yellow in
Just to sort of create chrome in places
Basically I'm just feeling the whole thing
Just letting go
Let go of the mind, open the heart
And just feel the energy flow through you
Now what I do at this stage
Is look in the mirror a lot
At a reflection
So you see it at a different angle
It brings out what needs to be done
I take a photograph with my mobile phone
See what that looks like
It really does help to see everything correctly
This is a great tool to have in your toolbox
It's a colour shaper
It's ideal for really subtle details
Just to sort of soften up the edges
Because all the details is about
Getting the edges right
The value and the chroma
So just softening these edges
Makes a difference
And that's a great tool for it
Right so now it's time
To put the subtleties in the eyes there
Just softening things up
It's all about getting the edges correct
You don't want any sharp edges
I do like to put special attention on the eyes
Because obviously the eyes are the mirror of the soul
You've heard that expression before
And it is true
There's a lot of feeling and emotion in the eyes
So what I tend to do is again
Is open the heart
Let go of the mind
Really focus on how it feels
And you've got to be careful
Not to put too much details in
It's still got to be subtle and expressive
Just making sure the white of the eyes
Is fresh as well
I had to change it slightly
To what the photograph was
Because it looked a bit red and pink
On the actual photograph reference
So I made it more realistic
To what I know what eyes look like
Using the orange and the blue
And put a little bit of red in there
Just to create a little bit of a purpley colour as well
So it's a case of experience
You can change these things up
Just to make it look a bit more realistic
To what the reference image is
Thank you so much for watching the video
Right till the end
Here's the finished painting
At the correct angle
Rather than being in perspective on the easel
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