名厨马库斯·沃宁的花园厨房Marcus Wareing's Tales from a Kitchen Garden S01E07中英字幕（2022）

Life at my small holding seems to get busier every day. There's always something to be done. The chicken coop needs cleaning. The pigs demand their food. And then there's the tricky task of feeding the ducks by boat. Good job. Of course, Esme also tries to help. You're wet through. You've been to the ducks again, haven't you? Duck versus dog. There's only one winner on water. With my early morning jobs done, it's time for a copper. And it's time to start planning my next big idea for the farm. So today what I'm thinking here is to put a new orchard. I want to create a sort of a walkway. So crab apples along the outside and then I'm going to put my eating apples in the middle. I want to create a space that draws the family to enjoy the apples, cook with the apples. But I just don't want it regimented. I just don't want straight lines because we've got the orchard just here. It was planted about 20 years ago. Fantastic, looks great. But all straight lines, which is what I love. But on the paddock, you know, I'm looking forward to putting these in and actually creating my own sort of little bit of legacy really because the tree, I suppose the tree's there forever. What do you think? It's quite good, I think. So I have a plan, but I also have a site. The old paddock is well-drained, sheltered and has great soil. But before I can plant anything, I first need to cut all of that grass. Let's go. I love a calm, quiet country morning. But today is not one of them. Gently up on your clutch. Do I not put the accelerator on there? No, no. Right, we're off. Local farmer Stuart has offered to give me a crash course in grass cutting in his two and a half tonne tractor. Right, now put your clutch down before we hit the hedge. But now reverse with this lever. Whoa, gently. Whoa, whoa, whoa, stop. How do I stop? Whoa! Brake. Where? I thought you could drive. I didn't stop. I thought you could drive. This is easy. Steady, steady. Whoa, what's going on? What was I being? You're going too fast. No, I am going a bit faster. I'm loving this. Yeah. Oh, look, you're missing a bit there. Look, I'm on the track. You're too far over. My son can do straighter lines than this. Yeah, I need. I need a straighter field. Just mind the hedge. Oh, stop worrying. Is it okay at the back? It's perfect at the back. Just worried about that shed in the front. I think, I reckon, one more turn and we should be good. Last one. Job's a good'un. Lovely. That's it. Handbrake. Neutral. Engine off. Get me out of here. What's wrong? That's enough. I thought that was pretty good. I think it was better than I was expecting. You happy? I am. It's in one piece. I'm in one piece. I'm happy. In the farming community, it's certainly true that one man's trash is another man's treasure. And my surplus grass will become hay to feed Stuart's cattle through the winter. That looks like good food to me. If you're a cow, you'd probably like that. It's my food. It's proper grass, that. You know why? That's our chef's grass. You gonna take that thing away? Well, I'm not trusting you with that. Leave it here for me. Come and collect it tomorrow. Yeah, okay. The two dozen trees in the farm's old orchard bear fruit that's ideal for juicing. But I want to grow some traditional cooking and eating apples. I'm on a mission to find the perfect apple for a dish very close to my heart. What I'm looking for is an apple that I can use for a tartar tan. One of my favorite desserts. Made it since I was at catering college. And pretty much every kitchen I've ever worked in, we've always cooked apple tartar tans. There's so many different ways of making it, but you've got to get the right apple. Reluctantly, I've swapped Stuart's tractor for my car. And I'm hitting the road. I need to learn more about apple growing, varieties, and how to care for a new orchard. This isn't about just putting a tree in the ground and hoping, fingers crossed, it'll work. There's a lot I need to know. My relationship with apples goes back a long, long way. Back to my childhood with my dad. And my uncle. Apples all over the place in my dad's warehouse. It was one of the main fruits that my dad bought, and he always took a pride in the apples. But when it comes to planting them and looking after them, never done that before. I've come to Kent to meet Sam, and he's a fourth generation apple grower. Got a huge amount of experience in the world of apples, and I want to know what type of apple it is that I need to be planting. Beautiful, isn't it? Wow. Yeah, such lovely trees. The award-winning Woolton Farm near Canterbury has been commercially growing apples for more than a century. Today I'm joining Sam on an apple picking walk around his heritage orchard. Dedicated to growing around 15 varieties of these old traditional apples. Give me some top tips. What do I need to do? What do I need to look out for? Trees have a natural tendency to grow upwards. So you'll see a lot of these, they've got a wavy branch at the top. That's the leader, and that's controlling the growth. It's a bit like the throttle on the tree. But if they just grow up, they don't produce the fruit. So after this season, would you just cut that off? It might last one more season. Okay. And then it would come off, and therefore you're controlling how much fruit. Ah, okay, okay. Got it. So variety is good? Yeah, definitely variety. It really helps with pollination, and there's very few that are self-fertile. So the bigger the diversity, the bigger the range, the better. Okay. You could put some beautiful crab apple trees in there. That's what I want to do. Yeah. Is that good? Definitely. They have lots of fruit, which means lots of flowers. Great. So you get really good pollination. Incredibly, there are over 2,000 varieties of apples growing in the UK, all with their own unique characteristics and flavour. But not all apples are created equal. I'm going to need Sam's help to pick the perfect variety for the perfect pud. I'm looking for a variety of apples to make ta-ta-ta. Okay. One of my favourite, favourite desserts of all time. Some of the things that first come to mind, I guess, are a Cox or a Braban. Yeah. They're really good, flavourful apples. They hold together when they're cooked. I know they work, but what I'm looking for is something that's a little bit more unique. Sure. Maybe that's got a slightly different flavour, whether that's acidity, sweetness, but it has to hold itself because it's cooked at high temperature. I want it to have a little bit of a twist. Yeah, I definitely recommend a russet. Got a tree over here. These are St Edmund russet, one of my favourites. Just has a real full flavour to it. So dig in, see if you can find one to try. It's like sandpaper. Yeah, the texture's incredible, isn't it? Yeah, what do you think of that? That's good. Yeah, good flavour. Quite firm as well. The russet is delicious and it begs the question, why haven't I tasted one before? If you're a commercial grower, you want an easy job. You want 90 plus percent of the apples to be the perfect shape and these old heritage varieties just don't do that. I don't mind what my apples look like as long as they taste good. Me neither. Sadly, that means that some of the older varieties are dying out. Really? Yeah, yeah. Quite funny talking about an apple tree as a rare breed or a rare variety. So the russet is the first one. Yeah. I'd like to see and try some others as well. Let's go and pick some other apples and put together a list of trees to grow. Sounds good. With several varieties of apples picked and tasted, we're heading back to the barn. I want to see if any of these will work for my tart. That's a good hole we've got there. What is it? While I get ready for a test cook in Kent, back at my small holding in East Sussex, gardener Anatoly is getting busy on his digger. He's preparing the holes for our new apple trees. So I better decide which variety to choose. Right, time to get cooking. With Sam's help, I've picked three potential pond varieties for my tartar tan. The russet, Ellison's orange and the scrumptious. Now I need to see how they hold when they're cooked. I'll get my apples in straight away. Nothing better than that. Great smell. Butter in a pan and a few apples in there, yeah. I'm keeping this very simple. Cooking our three different apples with sugar and butter. But what I'm looking for is to see where the apple starts to break down. I'm just rolling it around in the caramel. Now I'm cooking this quite quickly. And what I'm doing is I'm stressing the apple. I'm testing it at high heat. So far it's looking good. The apples are holding the shape. All right, I think we're about there. So let's get those out. So that's the russet. So let's have a little try of that. Well, it's got a good flavour. Really comes through, doesn't it? It really does. Yeah. That's a nice surprise. Really good. It's very, very good. And it's holding its structure really nicely. Yeah. Yeah, the russet is definitely a contender. Let's try the scrumptious. That is scrumptious. That is good. But interesting, just cutting it there. I've just noticed it started to just break up a little bit. Right, yeah. So last but not least. Not least. And Ellison's orange. It's a good flavour. Yeah, again, it's firm, isn't it? It's intensified the acidity. All three varieties are good. But I want perfection for my tartar tam. It has to be the russet for me. OK. It's holding the flavour of the caramel, but it's also holding its own structure. But the flavour has just intensified. Right, yeah. It's got better. And I think it feels different. It looks different. And it's almost sort of a special variety because you don't see it very often. That's the one. I'm at the beginning of my journey planting my own orchard. This isn't about just planting a tree. This is about planting the future. I want the orchard to be there for a long time for me to enjoy, but for other people too. Sharing my enjoyment of the smallholding is really important to me. And I feel the spirit of sharing from my neighbours and new farming friends too. Whenever anyone comes to visit, they always seem to be carrying something to plant, grow or eat. How are you both? Good to see you working hard. Here we are. It's a very tasty looking garden. Yeah, yeah. Dive into those nasturtiums. I've already sampled some of Adam and Sinead's edible flowers, but now I want to learn how they produce their tasty floral treats. How have you managed to learn how to grow edible flowers? I think it's focusing on nature and the wildlife and realising the relationship with insects and bees, which are also good for helping pollinate fruiting plants within your orchard. I mean, I've got lots of bees. Bees you've got. So now we need to think about the others, but there's things like spiders. Often we actually, people don't really like spiders, but those are great for pollination, particularly for things like courgettes. Really? I think the lack of insects, you're at the mercy of pest outbreaks and diseases and the more insects you can get into a space, the better. The better it is. So flowers are the easiest way. The insects have definitely been busy in Sinead and Adam's garden and they brought a few fresh cut flowers for me to taste. Sunflower petals. Really? Those are like... Loads of those. Yeah, well, you can tuck in. They're different types of colours that like vary and like nuttiness. It's like the dark red sunflowers. Those are like really, really nutty. The yellow ones are sweet, but nutty. They're great because the insects and bees really like those. There's always like bees surrounded on them. That's gladioli. There's nothing about that that says, eat me. Yeah. But are you saying that's edible? Yeah. So like we tend to break some of the leaves into a salad for a bit of colour, but you can also treat them like courgette flowers. So you can stuff them with cheese, batter them, fry them. Where I come from, we put fish in batter. Do that and we stick it in. We serve it with some chips. Are you saying we can batter that, deep fry it and eat that? Yes. Get away. For me, it's part of the flower vase, but now you're saying it's part of the plate. Yeah, yeah. It's got a little bit of mustardy flavour, a little bit of pepperiness to it. That's just blown my mind. I can't believe I just... I really am quite staggered at that. The world needs more flowers. Like a lot of biodiversity is really suffering and it's because there's not enough food. Food is flowers. So why don't we grow the flowers that we can also eat? Because then like everyone gets to win. To win, win. Yeah. Thank you so much. This is a treat. This is starting something really interesting for me. I'm always game for more flowers in my garden, especially tasty ones. My smallholding is certainly producing the seasonal goods and I'm picking a few of my juicy apples in the old orchard. There we go. My uncle Alan, he always used to make me laugh, my uncle, because he worked with my dad in the warehouse and he was the same as my dad, always eating all the rubbish or whatever was left over. And whenever you bite into an apple and there's holes running through it, they would always watch me do it and they'd always know that there's worms inside and you'd eat it and you bite it, but oh my God, there's a worm and eat my uncle as always. Well, it could be a lot worse. It could be half a worm. At this time of year, I often find I'm pulling more veg from the ground than I can possibly put on my plate. Always with gardening, especially when you're growing vegetables and herbs, you've always got more than you need. I don't like throwing anything away. So the most important thing for me is to grow and eat for today, but also preserve for tomorrow. I've got quite a few pickling recipes, but I think it's always great to meet people who've got other ideas. One true preserving pro is Swati. She's built her career on creating delicious Indian chutneys and pickles. Today, she's offered to share a very special spice pickle recipe using some of my veg. Hi, Marcus. Hello. What do we have with the vegetables? What we have got, some leeks that I've just pulled up, some little baby leeks, some kohlrabi, and I brought along some carrots and a cauliflower. This is what we're going to use to make our wild veggie Indian pickle. Yeah? Wild veggie Indian pickle. So this is my... I like the sound of that. Yeah? Yeah, I do. This is my grandmother's recipe, and if she were alive, she would not approve of me giving you this recipe at all. In this country, we see the pickle on the side like a tomato sauce or a barbecue sauce, but it's so much more than that in Indian cookery. It's as important as everything else. Absolutely. As vegetarians, like a lot of Indians are, this is a really important part of sort of consuming your vegetables. Swati likes to fry the veg in a splash of sunflower oil, using a little salt to draw out the water. And we're putting chopped ginger, chilli, and turmeric into a separate pan of hot oil. We'll go in with the fenugreek seeds and the nigella seeds. Yep. Well, that looks lovely, doesn't it? That brought it to life, didn't it? Look at that. Our freshly crushed fennel seeds. All of them? That, yep. Wow. We're not scared of our spices here, so. Wow. I've never done like this before. Really? No, never. Especially in so much oil. We have no vinegar in this pickle. Really? The oil and the salt are the two things which will preserve this pickle for a whole year. Do you know what concerns me about it? I've not taken down the quantities that you've put in. What you've just done is what your grandma did. Next, Swati combines the cooked veg with the spiced oil mixture, to which we're adding split yellow mustard seeds and chilli powder. It looks beautiful. Thank you. It's just so colourful. So as you can see, like, the oil doesn't really sit there. It looked like a lot in the saucepan. It did, didn't it? But actually, it just brings it all together. I'm going to have to try it. Yeah, please go for the cauliflower. Our cauliflower is just asking to be eaten. Oh, that's delicious just as it is. Oh, thank you. Got a lovely warmth, but also a lovely heat to it. Not, not, not over. Not over the top at all. We've got the fennel seed, which cuts through that heat and adds that little sweetness to the pickle. It's just absolutely delicious. Thank you so much. Doesn't cooking always make you feel good? Absolutely. But now that I'm actually growing it as well and making things like this, just brilliant. I love that. That very much smells of home to me, so I think we've done a good job with that pickle. There we have it. That's your wild veggie pickle. That's two jars of magic there. It's a new day on my small holding, but this is no ordinary day. My new saplings have finally arrived, which means today I get to plant my very own orchard. This is the russet. This one, this one's got tartar tan written all over it. Yeah, looking forward to watching this one grow. Right, where are we going to put you? Do you know what? I might put you right bang in the middle, right there. Alongside my russet, I'm planting the tasty Ellison's orange, a classic Cox's Pippin, and a few crab apples, which will give me beautiful blossom and help attract those pollinators. This one over here. It's a Kentish, that one. It's already looking good. Pippin there. I might put this one on there. I might put this one over here. Before I plant them, I just want to sort of see them all in situ, make sure, I really just want to make sure I've got my spacing right. My neighbour's got a little gate there. He'll just comes and leans on the gate and just looks out there. And what I don't want to do is, I don't want to block his view, because that wouldn't be fair. I want my neighbours to enjoy this as much as me. Take it out of the plastic pot, cover it up, and wish it luck. These saplings will need around five years growth before they bear their fruit. I'm knocking in a stake to help support each tree, keeping them angled against the prevailing wind. What I'm doing right now is I'm planning for the future and I'm absolutely loving it. There we go. First one in. That's a major milestone for me and my small holding. But I wouldn't be able to do any of this without the help and advice of my new friends. I want to thank them with food, of course. And there's only one dessert on my mind. Apple tartar tan has to be the one dessert that I think I have made in every single kitchen that I have worked in in my life. It's a dessert that is my favourite. What I like about a tartar tan is the celebration. It's a celebration of apple. Put it down on the table, everybody goes, wow, but only when you get it right. So many memories of making a tartar tan and a lot of disasters along the way. It looks simple. It sounds simple. But it's all about this, the apple. It's got to be the right apple. I need to wait a few years to use my Heritage Russets. But for now, I'm opting for a tried and tested variety. Delicious Braeburns, which I'm chopping into quarters. Definitely with this type of dessert, uniformity is really important because you want all of the apples to cook exactly at the same time. What you don't want is half your tartar tan beautifully cooked and the other half is turned to an apple puree. Right, that's my apples ready to go. So, caramel. You won't find this recipe in any diet books. I'm using 100 grams of butter to coat the base of the pan. Then adding an equal measure of sugar. I know it looks like a lot, but don't worry. It will all come together. What you do have with all this butter is you get that lovely, rich, delicious, buttery caramel flavour. Almost toffee-like in a way with the juices of the apple running into it. Oh, it's sensational. Now comes the tartar tan twist. Just to spice up my dessert, I've got some cinnamon, star anise and some cardamom. I'm just going to grate some of that onto the sugar and those flavours will just incorporate themselves into the caramel once it starts cooking. Oh, the smell is incredible. So, that's the base of our pan ready to go. When we turn the apple tartar tan over, they'll be sitting on top of the apples underneath all the beautiful caramel. Now, we're going to put our apples onto the caramel. Almost like little apple soldiers. Looks great. With the final soldier set in formation, it's time to start the caramel. Now the magic's happening. Butter's melting, sugar's melting. I'm cooking my caramel for about 10 minutes on a medium-high heat. One of the scary things about tartar tan is you never ever really know what it's going to be like until you turn it out. Fingers crossed, this one will be perfect. But it's not finished yet. With the caramel bubbling away, it's time to start rolling out the pastry. Puff pastry? Yeah, of course, you can make your own, but I think I'd rather spend some more time in the garden than make my own puff pastry. If you've ever got a block of pastry, don't go straight into rolling. You'll distort the shape. So, top tip, just bang it down, turn it, do the same again until you can get it to a thickness that you can start rolling without ruining the shape. Now, you can gently start to roll. And now that it's the right thickness, I'm resting it for a moment to prevent it from shrinking when it cools. Then, using a plate to get the correct size, it's on with the pastry. Just tuck the pastry around the outside. I'm making a few little holes in the pastry to release any steam. And it's straight into a hot oven for about 40 minutes. I'm going to serve my tartar tartan with creme fraiche, infused with the flavours of my garden. So, I'm picking delicious fresh figs. But to make this dish really sing, I'm adding something a bit special. Inspired by my pickling session with Swati, I preserved some of my early season figs in a beautiful spiced honey syrup. Then, we're just going to chop fresh one up too. Put those in there. I'm certainly not throwing away the fig leaves. I'm finely chopping them to pop into the mix. A lot of people just bypass the fig leaf, but it's got so much flavour. I actually think there's just a small flavour or a hint of almond that comes out of a fig leaf that's quite unique. When you infuse the fig leaves, all the flavour of the fig is intensified and just comes out. With a final flurry of fig to top the creme fraiche, it's the moment of truth. At this point, you have no idea what that's going to be like underneath that pastry case. Every tartar tan, you always have a nervous moment. Let's take a look. There's only one way to get an apple tartar tan out of a pan. Have a little sneak peek. There we have it. It's delicious. I know that's right. Pastry's beautifully cooked. It's lovely and caramelised. It smells incredible. And the apples have still got a little bit of texture to them. Fantastic. I've turned out thousands of these things and I still get a smile on my face when I do because it's a smile of satisfaction. It doesn't always work out like that, though. You do get it wrong from time to time. Thankfully, this tartar tan has come out just the way I like it. Perfect for sharing as a late afternoon fireside treat in the orchard. Hello, everybody. Hello. Tartar tan, anybody? Oh, wow. Yeah, why not? There we go. That looks great. Oh, it does. Wow. Why do I always get the tricky job? And we're just all watching, not helping at all. And we're just here to eat. Tartar tan has to be my favourite. It is one of the best, isn't it? Something really warm in there. We've got cinnamon, star anise and cardamom. Just a little. Yeah. There's not too much. Just basically to enhance the apple. Yeah, it's delicious. It is, yeah. First to finish gets another slice. That is what I like. They say an apple never falls far from the tree and that's certainly true in my case. My parents gave me my love of apples but it's future generations that will be able to enjoy my new orchard. Now that I've planted my own orchard, I feel like I've planted a little story of my own and a small legacy on this patch of land. And that's actually a really nice feeling. It may be a while till I make my first tartar tan from my own russet apples but Sam's let me in on a tradition that may just speed up the process. A good glog of local cider to christen the new trees. Here's to my new orchard. The flavour of things to come, I hope.