Wudang Mountains: A Journey Into the Heart of Taoism | Travel Documentary

In the very heart of eternal China, between misty valleys and lofty peaks, nestles a land where time seems suspended. Here, nature and the arts dwell in harmony. These majestic landscapes gave rise to some of the greatest treasures of Chinese civilization. But the ancient temples that embrace the steep slopes are but a single facet. For the sacred mountains of Wudong conceal many untold secrets, the cradle of Taoism, of traditional medicine, and of martial arts. The Wudong is a mountain range located in the Hubei province, in central China, about 1,200 kilometers south of Peking. It covers more than 400 square kilometers and consists of a succession of steep peaks and deep ravines. The very humid climate of the region shrouds these suspended valleys in a perpetual mist, lending the region an aura of mystery. In this spectacular setting, clinging to the rocky slopes of the mountain is a vast complex of medieval temples and monasteries. These buildings form a group of more than 60 sites now inscribed by UNESCO on the World Heritage List. Apart from its exceptional architectural merit, it was from this unique region that Taoism flourished. The oldest buildings date from the 7th century, but most of them were built in the 15th century during the Ming dynasty, when the Emperor Zhu Di undertook a series of massive construction projects, the most famous being the Forbidden City in Peking. The Emperor sent over 20,000 soldiers to the Wudong Mountains in order to construct temples in honor of Zhenwu, an important Taoist god. According to legend, Zhenwu was born into a royal family, but renounced the throne at the age of 15. He then retired here as a hermit in order to seek truth. After four decades as an ascetic, he flew to heaven and became immortal. In the past, this magnificent three-meter dragon's head carved from solid rock and poised over a sheer drop had served as an incense burner. Here, intrepid worshipers would defy the precipice in order to display their piety to the god. Today, after praying, visitors simply throw a coin into this bowl. The architectural diversity of the sacred buildings of Wudong is highly representative of the art and architecture of the successive ruling dynasties. It attests to the genius of 1,000 years of civilization. Some of the temples and monasteries are still active. Monastic tradition remains alive here, despite having fallen into disuse during the mid-20th century. In an attempt to eradicate traditional values, the Cultural Revolution set in motion by Mao Zedong suppressed all forms of religious beliefs. Many temples in China were destroyed, but the remote Wudong complex escaped destruction. The Taoist religious community, which fled during the purge, has since returned and now shares Wudong with hordes of tourists. Chinese visitors, eager to reclaim the forgotten side of their cultural heritage, are increasingly numerous in the region. The recent emergence of a middle class in China has provoked a surge in tourism. For these new holidaymakers, Wudong is a popular destination, both for the beauty of the landscape as well as the inestimable religious sites found here. There are, for example, about 1,500 bronze, iron, wood, or stone statues, as well as hundreds of sacrificial objects, not to mention numerous classical paintings and prehistoric carvings sculpted right into the rock. But large crowds of tourists do pose certain problems. To fully discover this extensive site, visitors need to stay in Wudong several days. As a result, gigantic hotel complexes have been built in the vicinity of the park. In order to preserve its fragile environment, private vehicles are banned inside the park. There is, however, a vast network of gas-powered shuttle buses. Given the distances that separate the different temples, these buses are indispensable for visiting the various sites. But hiking the steep trails is still the best way to discover the real feeling of the place and to meet the monks who live there. Not far from the sites in Wudongshan City, the heritage of the past mixes with the present. Taoist precepts influence many aspects of daily life. Traditional Chinese medicine is a prime example of this trend. Its origins are lost in the mists of time. Traditional Chinese medicine holds that the health of the body and that of the mind are linked and that illness is the consequence of an incorrect circulation of energy, the vital energy called qi. Qi flows through the body along meridians associated with different organs and viscera. Illness results from an obstruction of this vital flux. Practitioners must thus determine the cause of the disorder and redirect the flow of the energy by acting upon certain precise points, notably through acupuncture. For stomach pains, it's this point. I feel energy gathering in the center. Other practices associated with Taoism can improve the flow of qi in the body and even attain harmony with the Tao. Tao, roughly translated as the path or the way, is the fundamental concept that designates the natural order of the universe. Tao is the ultimate goal of all Taoists, a state of complete self-realization, the promise of creativity and longevity. Wudongshan City is a good base for visiting the Wudong Mountains. The crowds of tourists are an important source of income for the town, which is mostly inhabited by people who've migrated from the surrounding countryside in the hope of improving their living conditions. Night markets are very popular in China. Visitors mix with the local people who like to go for a walk at nightfall and shop for their evening meal. Appetizing aromas from the mobile food carts fill the air with the variety of gastronomic specialties that attest to the diversity of Chinese cuisine. Here, consumers buy exotic fruits and vegetables directly from producers. In Wudongshan, modern lifestyles are gradually replacing traditional ways. As in all Chinese cities, motor traffic is very heavy. The contrast with the peaceful atmosphere of the sacred mountains is striking. We leave the noisy city for the tranquility of the mountains. Not far from the ancient temples, Taoist discipline can be seen in the teaching of the arts. In the heart of the wilderness, in this small, isolated village on the slopes of the Wudong Mountains, a music school perpetuates the art of one of the oldest traditional Chinese musical instruments. Inspired by this landscape so ideal for contemplation, students devote themselves to the study of the guqin. This plucked string instrument is a type of zither. About a meter long, it has seven strings, traditionally of twisted silk cord. Called the instrument of the sages, guqin music embodies all the refinement and sophistication of Chinese civilization. There are not many luthiers who still make the guqin by traditional methods. But this music school is also renowned for the quality of its instruments. There are a great many clients, but the construction of a guqin is a long and complex process. Buyers wait for over 10 years for their instrument. The extremely soft and subtle sound of the guqin makes it a very difficult instrument to play. The slightest nuance of fingering produces very different tones. Mastering the guqin requires about 20 years of practice. Today, there are less than 1,000 accomplished performers and only about 50 recognized masters. The classical guqin repertoire once comprised thousands of works, but today only about 100 pieces still exist. These complex compositions evoke the history, the mythology, and the philosophy of this great civilization. The emotional depth of this instrument is based on the harmony between the complementary forces of fullness and emptiness, of yin and yang. Here again, we find the basic precepts of Tao. Playing the guqin is a form of meditation. Indeed, classical Chinese paintings often depict the instrument in the hands of a solitary ascetic lost in the contemplation of nature. Wudongshan National Park is an important botanical sanctuary. It contains numerous medicinal plants. More than 800 are rare species. The most renowned of them all is, of course, tea. Tea plants are grown on terraces which follow the natural contours of the slopes at altitudes between 800 and 1,200 meters. Wudong Daocha, a noted variety of green tea, is a harvest of young leaves plucked just after the rainy season. Cultivated using ancestral skills, it's one of the most exported agricultural products of the Hubei province. According to a famous Chinese proverb, a cup of tea a day will forever keep the doctor away. Many medicinal properties are attributed to tea. Its powerful antioxidants have an anti-cancer action as well as reducing hypertension and the development of cardiovascular diseases. Tianyin, found in tea, is an excellent anti-stress remedy. This tea, served three times, will have a very different taste each time. Tea is highly appreciated by the Chinese for all its therapeutic properties. Far from being a mere beverage, tea is a genuine social and culinary institution found in all aspects of daily life. Tea is also inseparable from Taoism. To reveal its most noble attributes, tea must be prepared according to a strictly codified procedure. Chinese tea culture is an ancient art which also serves as a technique of concentration and is taught to the young monks of Wudang. Tea helps to soothe the body and the mind. It lends itself to meditation. Its subtle taste allows one to enter into harmony with nature. Taoists consider it to be an elixir of youth, useful in their quest for immortality. By nightfall, the mountains are empty. The hikers are gone and serenity returns. The monasteries sleep peacefully. Every day at five o'clock in the morning, the nuns of the Purple Cloud Temple celebrate a ritual service. The Taoists of Wudang belong to the K'anzen school, which is known for its open-mindedness. Since its origins, women have been welcome in the order. They can even become priests. The nuns officiate to the accompaniment of traditional music. They read sacred texts and chant liturgical songs in the presence of the faithful. Under the benevolent gaze of the statues of the immortals. Whereas most monastic communities live in seclusion, the monks of Wudang openly welcome the public. They sometimes even invite laymen to participate in the service. A priestess presides over the rest of the ceremony before an altar prepared for the occasion. Her traditional dress is decorated with embroidered motifs of symbols representing the sky and the earth, the natural elements, animal and plant life, and the virtues of the spirit. She also wears a tall black Taoist headdress capped by a small golden crown with small chiming pearls. The faithful kneel, bow, and rise following the rhythm of the ceremony. Incense is omnipresent in Chinese spirituality. It has been used for thousands of years. It's a link between the earth and the sky because its smoke is reputed to carry prayers to heaven. Incense also serves to purify holy places and their occupants. The more superstitious Chinese use it every day at home, and they must go at least once a month to burn a joss stick in the temple. Over time, Taoism has assumed the aspects of a religion while mixing with popular beliefs, but its origins are more akin to philosophical teaching. You have to lose yourself in the forest to seek out the roots of this doctrine. This little temple, known only to initiates, is dedicated to Lao Tzu. Often represented as an old man with an eternally white beard, he is thought to have lived between the 6th and 5th centuries BC, at the same time as another influential thinker, Confucius. Lao Tzu is considered as the father of Taoism and is author of its founding book, Tao Te Ching, Book of the Way and of Virtue. Written in verse, the Tao Te Ching is a collection of metaphoric maxims with enigmatic meanings. Contrary to the philosophy of Confucius, which seeks to improve human relations through morals, Taoism refutes life in society. To find inner peace, the individual must follow the Tao, the way, in order to attain the balance between the opposing forces of the yin and the yang, the visible and the invisible, the light and darkness. This harmony is to be found in the imitation of nature, wild and authentic. Taoist conceptions of the world have influenced certain ancestral practices. The most eloquent example is certainly that of martial arts. Contrary to Kung Fu, a so-called external martial art, inherited from the Buddhist monks of the Shaolin school, the Taoist monks of Wudong developed a style called internal that considers interior strength superior to muscular strength. Tai Chi stems from this approach. The Wudong style is attributed to a wandering monk who retired here with his disciples. According to legend, he had a revelation while watching a crane and a snake fighting. The reptile's suppleness and continuous movement allowed it to escape the bird's frenzied attack. From this, the monk formulated the founding principles of the internal arts, the primacy of suppleness over rigidity, of the intellect over brute force. A discipline grew out of this school called Qigong, literally the mastery of vital energy. It is practiced by thousands of enthusiasts throughout the country, and its practice focuses on spiritual aspects and on mastering breathing. A type of martial gymnastics, Qigong is based on slow movements that produce mastery of the flow of energy through the body. Breathing techniques are at the heart of the training. It's also a form of meditation that has proven health benefits. Not far away, an old man indulges in quite another discipline, calligraphy. Despite appearances, this art also calls for breathing techniques and precise postures and the same demand for concentration. Chinese writing, known for its particular graphic style, is based on the use of ideograms, graphic symbols that encompass the meaning of a word or an idea. The signifier and the signified are united in a line of evocative beauty. Chinese characters are said to have been invented almost 3,000 years BC by a legendary sage. Equipped with two pairs of eyes, he could perceive the profound nature of things and reproduce them with a corresponding symbol. Over the centuries, the art of calligraphy became the prerogative of scholars. With their knowledge of spiritual texts and literary classics, they played a dominant role in the imperial regime and in Chinese society. Far from being a simple communication tool, calligraphy in China is a major art form whose aesthetic has permeated all other plastic arts. Beyond its mere beauty, it requires technique and concentration. Those are Chinese paintings of animals. Once his work is completed, he places a seal on it. More than a simple signature, it's a form of art in its own right. Throughout the whole country, breakfast is one of the most important moments of the day. It is, therefore, a real meal, served hot and often savory. It's customary to eat it out of doors. Baozi are little bread rolls that are stuffed and steam-cooked. They're very popular, and there are a great variety of them. The dough is usually made from wheat flour and water. Different types of stuffing include meat or vegetables that are wrapped in this leavened dough, and then the whole thing is steamed. There's also a sweet variety stuffed with a red bean paste. Another well-known speciality, noodles, are the basis of an infinite number of dishes garnished with vegetables or meats in sauces. Soups are equally popular. There are all sorts, rice or vegetable-based, stuffed with eggs, meat, or fish. Often, the Chinese eat them accompanied with hot soy milk. In the streets that are already very busy at this early hour, wandering street vendors and little stalls try to tempt customers with their homemade specialities. Yu jiao, literally translated as long fried piece, is a doughnut cooked in vegetable oil. Composed essentially of flour, water, and salt, this speciality is eaten in various ways, often dunked in soy milk. In general, the Chinese are fond of fries of all kinds, be they doughnuts, meat, or even skewers of insects and reptiles. Customers congregate here on their way to work, and it's not uncommon for these restaurants to close once breakfast time is over. Framing is an essential stage to perfect the work that has been accomplished on very thin rice paper, which is used because the ink dries rapidly on it. The calligraphy must first be affixed to a backing, that's to say, glued on a more rigid support, often a canvas that reinforces the paper and ensures better preservation of the work. The whole thing is then pressed to remove any bubbles of air. Bands of silk chiffon are added that enrich the frame, providing shades of hues and textures. Finally, thin strips of wood are placed at the ends that will be used to hang the finished work on the wall. It was in China that paper was invented, and gluing techniques date back to antiquity. Framing is not a mere amenity, but a true art that creates around the work a space conducive to its contemplation. Built on the highest peak of the mountain called the Celestial Pillar, reigns the jewel of Wudong temples, the Golden Sanctuary. All year long, crowds hurry here to visit this monument, but today, numbers are even greater because it is the ninth day of the ninth month of the Chinese calendar, and it is nine o'clock in the morning. According to popular belief, this is the moment the dragon awakens. The more superstitious Chinese come to the sanctuary in droves to burn incense and thus bring luck for the year to come. Access to the summit is through a very narrow passage. While the ascent usually takes around 15 minutes, it can take up to four hours on a very busy day. The Golden Sanctuary is composed entirely of bronze, imitating wood. All of its elements, from the tiles to the pillars, including the doors and the beams, are made of this metal. The elements were prefabricated in Peking and transported up to the summit of the mountain to be assembled. The builders went to such pains because the mountain is not just a simple backdrop. Here, the landscape is truly sacred and nature venerated. The peak of the celestial pillar is one of the five sacred mountains of the empire, and it is thought to hold up the heavenly vault, the passageway of men to the heavens. In the lower part of the temple is the Palace of Harmony of the Great Summit, which houses the Hall of Imperial Books, as well as that of Imperial Scriptures. Here, the monks can consult holy texts, an important activity of monastic life, to which they devote one hour every morning and another in the evening. On the grills and wooden partitions, precious ornaments include figures from tales and other fantastic animals, reflecting the beliefs and the aesthetic of the Qing Dynasty. After a day's visiting, tourists can enjoy eating at the many little stalls on their way home. To understand the soul of Wudong, you need sometimes to lose yourself in the mountain and not to be afraid of leaving the beaten track. In the very depths of the forest, at the end of an ancient sacred path that winds into the mountain, is a mythical cave. This is where the hermit who invented the internal martial arts retired to theorize on the principles of Tai Chi and where he became immortal. A little statue commemorates this legend, and it is customary to bow in front of it. Inside the cave, a kitchen has been built. At lunchtime, there is great activity around the cooker. Even today, the cave is occupied by a hermit whose retreat is not as serene as his predecessors. Do you practice Qi Gong and Tai Chi in the morning? Every day, a volunteer prepares his lunch that he has the pleasure of eating with his visitors, satisfying their thirst for his wisdom. The hermit offers each of them a little welcome gift without expecting anything in return. Despite his great age, he continues to practice austere Taoist asceticism. There's no problem, no worries. Wrapped in a mysterious mist, the monasteries of Wudong seem to be outside of time. But in reality, thousands of helpers are busy in the wings to keep them running properly. The proximity of the mountain range is a means of livelihood for the surrounding towns and villages. The popular districts of city suburbs provide a diverse workforce. Peasants, workers, and craftsmen, dozens of trades take part in supplying the goods and services necessary to the maintenance of the site. This traditional factory still recently produced the tiles that cover temple roofs. In this workshop, all stages of manufacturing were manual. A remarkable know-how, as well as hard labor that provided a living for dozens of workers. But a few years ago, the Chinese state closed a good number of tile-making factories for environmental reasons. In fact, this industry is quite energy-intensive, and cooking the clay creates a thick black smoke that is extremely polluting. Here, this oven was destroyed by the authorities, and the factory has since remained inactive. With their characteristic curved shape, the roofs contribute greatly to the charm of the local landscape. They are also admired for the richness of their entwining ornamental ridge tiles. In spite of their refinement, they will remain stocked here, doomed to oblivion. And yet, this pile of tiles could have quite a different fate. In fact, some Wudang edifices have not resisted the test of time, and are today in ruins. Well away from the bustle of the tourist route, the Wudang keeps one of its proudest examples. The Temple of Wulonggong, or the Palace of the Five Dragons, was the first Taoist edifice to be built in Wudang, marking the beginning of a great spiritual venture. Legend relates that at the beginning of the 7th century, a great drought struck the Middle Empire. The governor of Wudang managed, through prayer, to make rain fall. The emperor rewarded him by ordering the construction of the Hall of the Dragon in his province. Successive emperors used Taoism to impose their power. They enhanced the site with new buildings to mark history with their grandeur. This was how the Hall of the Dragon was transformed into a temple, and then the Palace of the Five Dragons. Today, access is highly controlled. It takes four to five hours walking through the forest to be able to admire it. Having reached it, you can, in total peace, truly appreciate the splendor of the site. Here, more than in any other Wudang temple, you're transported in time. Cinema fans will indeed recognize this setting as that used in many martial arts films, from Karate Kid to Tigers and Dragons. Taoism has left its imprint on the ancient history of the country. Its precepts applied to the smallest aspects of daily life have crossed the ages to endure today. Its teachings continue to spread, influencing the arts, shaping bodies, and freeing souls. Defying the laws of nature to prove their devotion to it, the Chinese people have managed to find in the sacred mountains of the Wudang their quest for immortality.