Original chicken Marengo from 19th century Italy

History Of Food
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Welcome to my historical recipes. The story goes that on the 14th of June 1800, Napoleon Bonaparte,
after having won the battle of Marengo in northern Italy against Austria, fell hungry. The supply
hustle had been separated from the troops and so Napoleon's cook Dunant set out soldiers to the
nearby village to see what they could find. They returned, so the story goes, with a chicken, some
tomatoes, a few eggs and two crayfish, or in another version, mushrooms. Together with Napoleon's
personal wine reserve and some old bread, the cook could fry up the ingredients for Dunant's
chicken Marengo, since then a popular dish in France and northern Italy. So far the legend,
only that it's not true. Tomatoes do not appear in northern Italian or French recipes before the
1840s, so it is quite unlikely that Dunant would have found that ingredient in a village a good 40
years earlier. Chicken Marengo, as we know it today, was presumably created much later, most likely in
Paris, and from the beginning with many different variations. I am sticking here to Pellegrino
Artusi's recipe for chicken Marengo from his cookbook La scienza in cucina e l'arte di mangiare bene,
published in 1891. It lacks tomatoes, crayfish and eggs.
