Vietnam, échos d'une civilisation éternelle - Documentaire complet - AMP

The sounds, the smells, the images, the flavors. A trip to Vietnam is like a party. At the crossroads of history and civilization, Vietnam retains the heritage of the cultures that have imbued it. A population still in motion spreads to the bustling cities that are projected towards the future. The coming and going of bicycles, the cries of the merchants meet the gathering in the pagodas. From the northern mountain tribes to the southern fishermen, it is difficult to get Vietnam on a postcard. This country has much more to offer. A moving story of extraordinary wealth. Ho Chi Minh City, the old Saigon, crystallizes all the paradoxes of today's Vietnam, caught between an old story, its colonial past, the communist regime, and the forced march towards the flamboyant horizons of consumer society. Here, the changes that sweep Vietnam are the most obvious. This city attracts people from all over the country, in the hope of improving their situation. Here, we touch the heart and the paradoxes of modern Vietnam. Motorbikes, cell phones, and miniskirts of the new generation coexist with pagodas, political convictions, and the religious faith of the oldest. I speak to you, and MTV responds. Ho Chi Minh City has not broken with its old name. The people here still call it Saigon. Direction Cholon, the Chinese neighborhood. The Binh Thai market is a masterpiece of Chinese architecture, with the Clock Tower in its center. The rice comes from the earth, the sea and the rivers bringing the fish. These two ingredients lay the foundations of Vietnamese cuisine. The very large length of their coast gives the Vietnamese an important diversity of crustaceans, shells, and fish. Several stages are specialized in the cutting and preparation of the fish according to the recipes. We also find in the heart of this Chinese neighborhood the flagship products of this cuisine, such as duck. If we can judge from a cuisine the diversity of the products offered, undeniably, Vietnam is at the top of the basket. After the star products, in the secondary roles, we find a myriad of acrid roots and aromatic plants, which give the anchovies, soups, and ragouts their original and crunchy flavor. This noodle soup is found everywhere. It constitutes a complete and balanced meal, practical and economical. The walking merchants contribute to animate the markets by playing the balance in the middle of the crowd with their system of swinging plates. Everywhere in the city, we find religious buildings, mainly pagodas of various styles, Chinese or Vietnamese. Four major religions have shaped the spiritual life of the Vietnamese people, Buddhism, Confucianism, Taoism, and later, Christianity, introduced by the missionaries. But the vast majority of the population declare themselves Buddhist. We can easily enter the pagodas if we take off our shoes to enjoy the meditative calm of the places, the prayers of the monks, and the dancing vapors. Near the market is a pagoda built by the Canton Congregation at the beginning of the 19th century. The Tien Hao pagoda is dedicated to the goddess of the sea. The belief is that this divinity can cross the oceans on a carpet and overcome the clouds to save the boats in trouble. The families of fishermen come here to ask for the protection of the goddess. The dancing vapors rise like so many requests. On the altar, three statues of Tien Hao in Indian style are framed by two guardians. A vestige of the colonization, the Notre-Dame Cathedral dates from 1883. At mass, we see a crowd gather. Many remain on the pavement, sitting on their motorcycles. Many foreigners come to attend the service. The priests speak indifferently Vietnamese, French, or English. Opposite, the post is a monument of colonial inspiration to the French. This type of architecture, quite common in Vietnam, gives French visitors the impression of déjà vu. But beware, no arrogant attitude. This country has inflicted a devastating defeat on us, and we know how the most powerful army in the world got involved. The Vietnamese proudly claim their identity. Among the many markets covered, the Ben Thanh is the liveliest and most colorful in the city. The main entrance, topped with a cold bath and a clock, has become the emblem of Saigon. There are all kinds of food products. Built in 1914, the Ben Thanh market was called the Central Hall by the French. The wide variety of fruits and vegetables and spices in the south, close to Mekong, offer a wide variety of products, originating from a tasty cuisine. Curry has been cooked there since the dawn of time. Even if, unlike the original Indian version, they are not very popular. The artistic life is very rich, and often influenced by the region. The Yat Park has a superb collection, including works by Pham Hoang, an original artist from Haiphong, seduced by the beauty and spirituality of non-Buddhists. Formerly called the Museum of Chinese and American War Crimes, the Museum of War Memories is one of the most visited by Westerners. Most of the atrocities shown here have been widely broadcast in the West. Nevertheless, the details of these executions, presented by the victims themselves, remain very impressive. The war has left deep traces here, where practically no family has been spared. Another spectacular place witness to the conflict, the Palace of Reunification, astonished by its modern architecture. Symbol of the South Vietnamese government, the building remained as it was on April 30, 1975, the day the Republic of Vietnam ceased to exist. In the chaotic traffic of Saigon, one often feels like being in a video game. Motorbikes and cyclists arrive from everywhere. The rule of the game is simple, avoid the impact. One often believes that his last hour has arrived. However, at the last moment, everyone miraculously finds a gap. The game is tough in the event of a flood. But obviously, everyone seems to be used to moving around in these conditions, without regretting many accidents. At night, the center of Saigon continues to live at a frantic pace, always carried by the motorbikes' whirlwind that winds between the old French colonial buildings. The old city hall is one of the main landmarks of the city, an easy meeting point to continue until the end of the night. Leaving Saigon for the extreme south of the country, we reach the Mekong Delta. A trip to Vietnam's rice paddy allows us to better understand the importance of the farmers who work every day to feed the country's 85 million inhabitants. The Mekong Delta feeds not only its inhabitants, but the whole country, and provides an important part of its production for export. The Mekong Delta sparkles in multiple colors, from the sparkling green of the rice fields to the blue and white uniforms of the schoolchildren on bicycles. It's a shame that pollution deprives us of the Vietnamese elegance. Can Tho is the main city in the region. A political and cultural center of the Mekong, the local economy is mainly agricultural. This welcoming and thriving city is linked to the other agglomerations of the delta by a network of canals and rivers. The floating markets converge with many wholesalers and farmers. Unlike the Thai markets, where small wooden boats hide in three canals, the Vietnamese markets are generally located in places where the river is wide. The markets usually start early in the morning to avoid the heat of the midday. You also have to count on the tide, because the biggest boats have to wait for the water to be high enough to sail. The wholesalers arrive with the biggest boats, full to the brim. The goods are transported on smaller boats that feed the local markets. Here, in the middle of this perpetual movement, the Mekong really gives the impression of being an essential artery of the economic life of the South. The wholesalers set up long poles on their boats so that we can identify the products they sell. The abundance of foodstuffs throughout the delta is linked to the presence of the river. Formed by the limes, the delta is constantly sedimented, gaining ground on the sea at a rate of 80 meters per year. The river is so wide that the tide occurs twice a day. In addition to the numerous rice fields and pisciculture farms, the fertile lands produce fruits, coconuts and sugarcane. The delta region, which is mainly rural, is one of the most populated in Vietnam, and almost every hectare is subjected to intensive agriculture. The Mekong is one of the largest rivers in the world and its delta is one of the largest. Life in a regularly flooded plain is not without problems for the inhabitants. Houses are built on piles to protect themselves from the rising waters. Movements are made by boat on thousands of canals that must be regularly dragged to remain navigable. The manufacture of rice crêpes is a traditional activity. They are used to make spring rolls and nemes that are fried. The rice crêpes are steamed by a system of braziers fed by rice straw. In ancient Indian language, rice is called dania, which means support of the human race. This word also describes the importance of rice for the Vietnamese. According to a local legend, it was a time when rice did not need to be harvested. It was asked for by prayers and it was sent from heaven in each house in the form of a big ball. One day, a man asked his wife to sweep the floor in anticipation of the arrival of the rice. But when the huge ball arose, she swept again and accidentally hit it, breaking it into a thousand pieces. Since that day, the Vietnamese have had to work hard and harvest their rice by hand. We begin our climb to the north, towards the region of the high plateau of the Centre. In Dala, we arrive at the Lam Thi Pagoda, whose gate is the work of its unique monk, Vien Thuc, a cultivated man who made a fortune by painting instant paintings that he sells for a few dollars. He is always there to bless passers-by like the practitioners of the city. This hard-working and a little eccentric worker becomes the richest man in the region. He has planted flower massifs and arranged gardens of different styles, including a Japanese garden sprinkled with bonsai. Shaded alleys and tunnels complete the ornamentation of this place imbued with serenity. Gem of the high plateau, the Dala region is sprinkled with lakes, waterfalls, gardens and forests. Its cool climate and magnificent nature make it one of the most pleasant destinations in Vietnam. Dala was once famous for its big-beaked hunting. The hunt was so good that most of the big species disappeared. Now protected, the crocodiles can sleep quietly in the sun. On the occasion of superb hikes in the forests, you can go up the rivers and discover many waterfalls. Dala has retained the features of an ancient colonial city. Its big-beaked cathedral was finished in 1942 for French residents and holidaymakers. The train station in Kremayer also shows this flamboyant colonial past. An old Russian steam locomotive is exhibited inside. The Kremayer, which connected Dala to Tapcham since 1928, has been reopened for tourist purposes for nearby destinations. Here you can visit the Kremayer Museum. The construction was completed in 1952. Inside, the Buddha sitting in front of the awakening tree is adorned with five neon tubes. It is 4 o'clock and the streets of the village are lively with the school leaving. If at home, co-driving is difficult to develop, here the motorcycles are a means of transport in common. The return home is not so sad. There is a candy shop on the way. The sun rises on Lake Xuanhuang, in the heart of Dala. The lake is named after a Vietnamese poetess of the 17th century known for her virulent attacks against social conventions. Dala did not usurp its reputation as a jewel of the high plateau. The rising mist reveals a magnificent scenery where a nostalgic vision Dala cultivates her colonial past, her overwhelming atmosphere. The French presence of the time of India is still palpable. Dala is home to Sompthus, whose villa was owned by Emperor Bao Dai. During the Vietnam War, the city was subjected to a tacit agreement that spared it attacks and bombings. South Vietnamese officers trained at the academy were allowed to stay in their villa and the Vietcong dignitaries did so in their nearby residence. The city surrendered to the North Vietnamese troops on April 3, 1975. Climbing up the Lang Bian mountains, you enter a world of forests where many ethnic minorities live, such as the Lat. They populate this region and try to keep the ancestral traditions alive. Often allied with the Americans during the war, the Vietnamese government made them pay dearly for their dream of emancipation. The Lat houses are built on piloti and the walls are made of boards. Krajamaï learned French with missionaries in the 1950s and remembers a time when the Lat were free. The colored pole is the memory of the past. That means that before being Christians we were animists. We had a lot of gods, tigers, elephants and many other animals. To honor them, we killed a buffalo with the colored pole. These mountaineers are very fond of the rice culture. They do not like war, and claim their ancestral lands and the fact that they can practice their old religion. In response, the government imposes a policy of forced integration by establishing Vietnamese in these regions. The Lat, like many minorities on the central plateau, are condemned to a life of misery. Embroidery on silk is a very popular Vietnamese art. Specialized craft centers exhibit the most beautiful pieces which are sold at high prices. The capital of the province of Kanoa, Nha Trang, exhibits a magnificent seaside, one of the most famous in Vietnam. An impressive fishing port houses multicolored boats that dive here at low tide. On the quays, fish dry in the sun. Fishermen go to sea at night mainly, the day being devoted to rest and the maintenance of the equipment. Many fishermen still use the tong, a traditional round boat made from braided bamboo. The richest have small boats. The islands around Nha Trang house many fishing villages which are both places of work and life for the many fishermen of the region. The natural aquariums are full of the great diversity of species found in these waters. The tongs are the essential means of transport to go from one farm to another. Some islands are real harbors of peace. In the Ninh Van Bay, a sumptuous complex of villas with wooden roofs allows you to stay here and enjoy the beauty of this seaside where the days pass quietly at the rhythm of the fishing boats. Just in front of Nha Trang, On My is an island where many fishermen live and work. At break time, or while waiting for the tide, the fishermen play their favorite game, dominoes. But this world gives the impression of a perpetual movement where there is always something to do. On the dock, a man makes sure that the tongs are perfectly waterproof. They are dried in the sun, then the woven bamboo is coated with a mixture of palm oil and sugar. This molasses is particularly effective to prevent water infiltrations and navigate in the dry. On My is a living and authentic island where we share here the existence of these people from the sea of ​​the Vietnamese coast. Away from the lagoon, we discover incredible religious buildings like this one, which was built between the 7th and 12th centuries on a place of Hindu worship dating back to the 2nd century. Today, Chinese and Vietnamese Buddhists come to pray and make offerings. The towers house the Sanctuary of Yangino Po Nagar, goddess of the Dua clan, which reigned in the south of the Cham kingdom. On the other side of the city, the Lonesome Pagoda deserves a detour. At the end of the 19th century, it houses a lying Buddha. At the top of the hill, a huge white Buddha 14 meters high sitting on a lotus flower dominates the city, offering a superb view of the bay. These landscapes invite relaxation. In Nha Trang, we can enjoy many traditional treatments. We also teach meditation there. It is a good way to apprehend these Asian cultures where the body and the mind must function together and harmoniously. Some centers offer music sessions accompanied by traditional instruments. In traditional Vietnamese medicine, many diseases are attributed to pernicious winds. The pose in front of everyone is a way to fight these bad winds. It is also a treatment that is practiced in families. The IN cup eliminates stress and toxins from the body. A stay in Nha Trang would not be complete without a visit to the Moi Market, the fish market. It is one of the most extraordinary fish markets in the world. The number of species is absolutely impressive. Everything that lives in the water and can be eaten is here. Confrontations can be surprising but it is worth it. Da Nang is located on the west bank of the Han River. The city is bordered by the sea and five large mountains of marble. But today, most of the marble used in Vietnam is imported from China to avoid the massive extraction that would harm tourism and destroy the mountains. Each of them represents an element of oriental cosmology. Water, wood, fire, metal, earth. Tuy Son, the water, contains many natural caves where, over the centuries, Hindu and Buddhist sanctuaries were built. A large chimney-shaped cave houses a sanctuary. At the end of a corridor, two mandarins guard the entrance. A few more meters and the spectacle is eye-catching. We find ourselves in the huge cave of Nguyen Khon, which houses several Buddhist monasteries, which were later used as hiding places for Vietnamese soldiers and hospitals. On the southern bank of Tuy Son is the hamlet of Non Nguoc. It is here that artisans make magnificent marble sculptures. An impressive job that is a great success with an Asian clientele. Near the mountains of marble is a gigantic beach, where you can see the remains of American soldiers. During the war, American soldiers were parachuted here for a few hours or a few days of rest. For some, the China Beach picnic was the last meal before returning to the fight by helicopter. A real living museum, Hoi An is a port city. It is full of charm and its enchanting setting was, from the 17th to the 19th century, one of the main international ports of Southeast Asia. However, at the end of the 19th century, the outbreak of other ports in Vietnam marked the decline of Hoi An. The consequence of this economic disinterest frozen the aspect of the city and preserved it from a mismanaged expansion as, alas, many cities in Vietnam and in the rest of Asia. Hoi An exhales a scent of history and culture and maintains the illusion of a suspended time. The old city extends on the banks of the Tu Bon River. It is here that the activity is the most intense with its floating market. Wander in this labyrinth, smell the smells, look at the faces, listen to this incessant murmur, observe this ordinary life, makes you touch one of the aspects of today's Vietnam is not always easy. Each year, the rainy season in October and November brings its share of rain. The most important in 1964 completely engulfed the seaside houses. On the small island of Cam Khi, this couple lost everything in the last floods. Here, this kind of displeasure seems to be part of the order of things. Cam Khi is known for its ebony houses. Most of the ornaments, buildings and sculptures are made here. The Tran Khi house, built two centuries ago for a rich Vietnamese merchant, illustrates all the talent of the ebonists of the region. Its arrangement reveals the Japanese and Chinese influences on local architecture. The ceiling is supported by three beams of different sizes. Some columns hang Chinese poems inscribed in encrusted acer. The mythological and legendary city of Hoi An is full of beauty. Outside, the walls have retained the traces of the last flood. But after a few weeks, the streets are clean again and nothing recalls the violence of the phenomenon. Classified since 1999 as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the old city of Hoi An benefits from a regulation that strives to preserve its heritage by opening to the public historical and cultural monuments and limiting the traffic In these conditions, Hoi An has a chance to preserve this peaceful atmosphere that makes its charm and reputation. When leaving the city, the countryside offers these rice fields where the peasants struggle to restore the plots after the floods. The holy fields have also been devastated. By default, we still fish there. Qua Dai is located 5 km from Hoi An. Bordered by palm trees, the beach is 30 km long and extends to Da Nang. The walks are very pleasant. Here we find some families of fishermen who do not hesitate to go out with their tongs to cross the bar. Leaving Hoi An, we take the cloud pass to switch to the other side towards Lang Ko and its lagoon. Bordered by palm trees, Lang Ko is a pleasant beach It faces a blue-turquoise lagoon on one side and the sea of China on the other. The splendid landscapes of Lang Ko are visible north of Hai Van Hill. Here too, time seems to have stopped. On the sea side, fishermen keep methods and ancestral boats. On the land side, the rice fields where men and buffalos work hard, all here deliver images In the rice fields, the inhabitants always practice a traditional fishing method which consists of hitting bamboo to make the fish escape and lead it to nets. Approaching Vinh Yen, we come across strange constructions. These are tombs and family temples. At the same time spacious, opulent and colorful, the families compete to offer the most beautiful buildings to their ancestors. In this place, the city of tombs. This island has seen the exodus of many boat people. It is today the Vietnamese from overseas who finance these astonishing buildings. In the region of Hue, the former imperial capital, the cult of the dead takes on an even more spectacular dimension. The majestic tomb of Tu Duc, built between 1864 and 1867, is located in the middle of frangipani and pine trees. Tu Duc was buried in this harmonious monument that he had designed himself. The expense was huge and the workers were overwhelmed. Tu Duc, whose reign was the longest of the Nguyen dynasty, lived in an immeasurable luxury. Despite his 104 wives and his innumerable concubines, he left no descendants, probably sterile after contracting smallpox. Another impressive tomb is the one of the Vietnamese Emperor Khai Dinh, who reigned from 1916 to 1925. The construction of the imperial tomb lasted longer than his reign. Eleven years were necessary for its completion in 1931. This tomb is different from other imperial tombs in Hue in that it combines Vietnamese and European elements. This cultural mixture is even visible on the Eurasian faces of the stone mandarins and on the guard of honor. This tomb, built during the colonial period, illustrates the Vietnamese cultural decline. Hue is the former imperial capital. It is in fact a cultural and religious center in the foreground. The magnificent tombs of the Nguyen dynasty attract tens of thousands of visitors each year. Without tourism, Hue's cultural sites would probably be forgotten The construction of the citadel surrounded by doves on a perimeter of 10 km was started in 1804 on a site chosen by the geomancers of Emperor Gia Long. The imperial city, located in the citadel, is itself protected by a canal and by brick walls 6 meters high. Inside the citadel, many buildings were destroyed during the Head Offensive in 1968. The city of Hue has been a stronghold of independence since the French colonization. In Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh, the hero of independence, has nothing to envy to the emperors of the past. The last home of Uncle Ho establishes the cult of the character. His mausoleum is the most visited monument in Vietnam. It is closed to the public The presidential palace is an old colonial residence occupied today by the embassies and the army chiefs. The palace itself occupies a colonial residence from 1906, magnificently restored, which was once the palace of the Governor General of Indochina. The pagoda with unique pillars is a venerated place in Hanoi. Made of wood, it rests on a stone pillar. Endowed with timeless grace, the capital of Vietnam endures better the passing of the years than many of its Asian contemporaries. After the partition of Vietnam in 1954, Hanoi fell into a deep sleep of which it only came out 40 years later thanks to the kiss of economic reforms. Wonderful examples of French colonial architecture, Hanoi escaped the evil spell of American bombs and urbanization to the Soviet Union. Very lively, the old town has been full of commercial activities for 800 years. It is the ideal place to take a dip in this renaissance city. The trades and merchants are grouped by activity. Forgers, carpenters, ironsmiths, masons. An entire street is dedicated to bamboo. Elsewhere, it is the place where the people of the north work in the rice fields. They would have considered the surface of the water as a scene all found or after a flood of the delta of the Red River, they would have adapted the spectacle of traditional puppets. Whatever it is, this millenary art kept all its magic. The inhabitants of the neighborhood come to practice the traditional tai chi, do jogging or play badminton. Mixing Asian serenity and Parisian elegance, Hanoi cultivates paradoxes in a communist country where the boutiques of the chic neighborhoods display the last cry of international fashion. Here again, Hanoi is the center of Parisian culture. On the lake, the opera extends the walk on the Panama Desert. Fortunately, we also find in Hanoi magnificent monuments of traditional architecture. Two kilometers away from Lake Wan Kiem, the Temple of Literature is a real haven of peace. Built in 1070 Hanoi is the first university in Vietnam to teach Mandarin children. Leaving Hanoi, we go to the northwest where we find the most extraordinary landscapes. These mountainous areas also house ethnic minorities whose way of life, for some, has remained unchanged for generations despite external influences. The people of Hanoi live in high altitudes where they raise animals, grow rice, and grow medicinal plants like opium. They are divided into several subgroups, the black, white, red, green, and flower mong, visible by subtle variations of their traditional costumes. But their ancestral culture has always characterized tribes with schools as anchor points. Language and education also become means of integration without taking into account the specificity of these populations. However, the sense of identity remains strong, even among young people who, in the details of their clothing, translate their attachment to their culture and traditions. An important element of Hanoi's traditional clothing is its pants. And when we go to the mountains, it's a good way to protect ourselves from snakes and mosquitoes. Traditional, beautiful, and cheap clothes are made with natural materials that are not fixed. They can be dyed in a strange blue-green color. You just have to look at the arms and hands of the mong to be convinced. For these minorities, life has always been difficult. Their most fruitful crop is the opium, which has never done well with the Vietnamese authorities. Vietnamization only makes things worse. A tourism based on the survival and development of these regions. Almost daily, the mountaineers of the surrounding areas wear their most eye-catching costumes and make their way to the Sapa market. The charm of Sapa lies in the meeting between the Mong and Dao minorities, the best represented in the region. Very poor, these mountaineers, however, quickly begin their free enterprise. The majority of them come from the south of Vietnam. They live in the mountains, in the mountains, in the mountains.