Mäntel im Mittelalter | Wiegand von Marburg

By the way, the spruce is probably history soon. Don't worry, I won't cut it down, but we will soon have our home here in the Marstall building. And that means, of course, that I may also produce videos for you from here. That means I can go into the castle or down into the Marstall and then of course have a completely different ambience for you. I think the surroundings fit even better to our topic. Welcome to a new WIEGARD video, the first in this new year. Today the topic should be coats. I have already made a few videos about clothing, but so far I have never worn a coat. But fitting for winter, of course, we need something for above. And that starts in the early Middle Ages or, if you will, in the Late Antiquity with a very simple rectangle cloth. Please do me a favor and only use wool. No fleece and no viscose or whatever else you can find in the rest store. Wool is the simple and correct material of this time. It warms, it looks good. If you stand by the campfire, you don't get any fire holes right away. It is also partly weatherproof, so even if it rains and soaks up, it still warms. In other words, you just can't get past the material wool. It doesn't have to be the thickest wool. For example, I have two different thin wool cloths sewn together on this simple coat. I think the stitch is called overwintering stitch. You can do something like that in the evening on TV, so it's not that difficult. And they really keep you incredibly warm. And we'll start with the simple rectangle coat, which has been documented here since antiquity for northern Europe. You really only need a large wool blanket. Preferably woven or just tight enough. And if you want, you can still hem it. Also depends a bit on the time. I even take mine here twice, because it's just big enough. Then I put it over the left shoulder and close the whole thing with a fiber. Such a fiber is basically just a bigger and more chic safety pin. And you can see the time and the region pretty well on the fiber. So, for example, I have an onion button fiber here at the beginning. This is really late antiquity. It is probably Roman fashion and came through the Romans here to the north. You can see that on images first. Second, dozens of them have been found. In every better Roman museum there is an onion button fiber. So if you choose an early medieval representation, for example to the Merovingian period, because you are, for example, a Germanic in the auxiliary troops of the Romans, or a Frank who prefers Roman fashion, then that fits quite well. A few centuries later, the rectangle coats are still in fashion, but the fibers change. And of course you can just look here, for example, if you can find the corresponding fiber as a Viking. My favorite fiber is a fiber from the Goldsboro hoard. It was found in England, but probably from a Viking treasure from the 10th century. And that fits pretty well with my representation. What I'm wearing here might fit a wealthy merchant. After all, the Vikings also had them, with a nice warm gold tunic, a sax, a leather bag, a leather belt and the right fur cap. Incidentally, the right arm remains free so that you can pull a weapon there or handle something else. Interestingly, we will see that again later in another era. Next, I'll put on the coat from the beginning. And I made it for my wife. And she wears it closed at the front with a adhesive leaf fiber or such a three-leaf fiber. Typical for Viking women or women from that time. By the way, this coat can be turned around without any problems. Then you can see the beautiful red on the outside and the gray on the inside. Now we're making a leap of two to three hundred years and we're in the middle of the High Middle Ages. And I'm showing you a wheel coat here. It is cut in the semicircle or in the three-quarter circle. The fabric band that I used here was 1.50 wide. But that wasn't common in the Middle Ages. The weft chairs were just not that wide. And you have such coats partly artfully puzzled together from smaller pieces. And so sewn that you didn't even see it. It is held together at the front with a so-called tassel. That's a band with two fibers. Right and left, or better said, tassel discs. And that's why it is occasionally called a tassel coat. That I am here so fun-loving comes up occasionally when wearing. Because the coat likes to slide back. And that's also the reason why you see so often that a nobleman holds the tassel with his hand. That's not just an elegant gesture. That's partly just a necessity. And there we already have the main problem with this coat. It's not really uncomfortable, but it's impractical. So as soon as I want to do something now, craftsmanship or want to work properly, maybe in agriculture, this coat is completely unsuitable. It's really something for a noble performance. It becomes particularly noble if you feed it with fur or silk. I have mixed cotton here. That would have been very noble at that time. Nowadays, of course, this is the cheapest solution. So again for clarification. We are here in northern and central Europe around 1200 to 1250 at a noble performance. If you also want something more practical in the High Middle Ages, a kappa would be offered. A kappa is a kind of poncho, mostly with hood and has the advantage that you have your arms free underneath. Such a kappa should definitely also be made of wool. And the length varies from a very long hood to a typical coat length. So I've seen a lot of different lengths on pictures. My tip would be, for example, to take more opaque colors for a simple farmer's performance. Maybe a simple brown or some other natural color. Because such a coat has to be robust and is not necessarily there for the representation. If you put sleeves on the whole thing again, it becomes a travel coat or gardecoir. Here we see, for example, the travel coat of Richard I. Closely related to the gardecoir is the ganache or the ganache. I don't know exactly which item you need there. And with that we have already arrived in the Late Middle Ages. Here I show a coat that I also sewed for my wife again, which is basically a semicircular coat with hood. And so that when you close it in front, you don't have to open it all the time, it has sleeve holes or slots for the hands, which makes the whole thing incredibly practical again. The wool for this coat is incredibly heavy and really weatherproof. We have already tested this at minus degrees. So you can wear this thing in wind and weather and it really keeps you warm. By the way, of course, all these coats are also wonderful as a blanket. You can wrap yourself in it and you can sleep on it or sleep inside. So a great blanket too. In the 14th and 15th centuries, other coats developed, the heuke, the scab. I have now chosen a special coat form here, which can be found in many depictions and which, interestingly, leaves the right arm free again, as it was already worn in the early Middle Ages with the right-angled coat. This is either an early form of the tapat or also a heuke, so to speak, the male way of wearing a heuke. Probably depends on the region. Such a coat is no longer closed with a buckle, but with buttons. I have chosen metal buttons here, but fabric buttons are at least as common. With the variety of depictions I have found, this coat was worn by different social classes, from the craftsman to the wheeler. I have rejected a particularly weatherproof variant of a depiction from the Tacuinum Sanitatis. This is a book with various depictions up to the late 15th century. Here I have a gugel as a collar under the coat and then also put a hat on top. I tried it out. This is really incredibly weatherproof. So, that was a prelude through at least 600 years of costume history. Because that's what it's called. I hope it was the epoch that interested you. If you want to re-sew something, or if you have a sewing instruction or a pattern for it, then just write to me in the comments, or via Instagram, or via Facebook, or by e-mail. I'm always available there. This time it's again about the topic of pop culture. I just want to cover one of my favorite topics, namely my 10 favorite sword fights in movies. I hope you'll be there again. Thank you very much for watching this time. See you next time. Bye.