More milk, fewer farmers and a sinking demand: So why has the price of milk been falling? And, why are we still producing more milk each year? Learn why milk is so cheap and how much it would cost without subsidies.
Article by Katharina Kropshofer Read by Cait Mack Graphics by Eloise Adler Sound Design by Jane Alice Liu
Listen to FoodUnfolded AudioArticles on Spotify, Apple Podcasts, or wherever you download your favourite podcasts.
...
Timestamps
00:06 Milk Production: What really drives the price of milk? 01:27 Setting the context: Milk farmer income 02:58 Why dairy farmers produce too much milk 03:45 The issue with government subsidies 05:00 Incentivised up-scaling 06:29 How are smaller milk farmers coping today? 08:00 Credits
Reconnect to the origins and future of your food. FoodUnfolded is powered by EIT Food, an extended body of the EU.
This project is co-funded by the European Union.
Milk production. What really drives the price of milk? More milk, fewer farmers and a sinking
demand. So why has the price of milk been falling and why are we still producing more milk each year?
In 2019, the global milk industry was worth a staggering 570 billion euros. With more than 172
million tons of raw milk produced in 2018, the EU is collectively responsible for around a fifth
of global milk production. Although the number of cows and milk producing farms has been decreasing
in recent years, we're still seeing an overproduction of raw milk. In the last three
decades alone, worldwide milk production has increased by more than 59 percent, from 530
to 843 million tons in 2018. Consumer demand, however, did not increase at the same rate.
Instead, milk consumption in major consuming nations, like the US alone, fell by four percent
since 1975. But if we're already producing too much milk, why are we producing even more each year?
Setting the context. Milk farmer income. To address this question, we need to first understand
the issue surrounding milk farmers and their income. But who is it that actually keeps the
profits in the milk industry? Take the price of one litre of milk produced in Germany as an example.
15% stays with the milk processors, 6% to storage and transport, 14% to packaging and disposal,
and 17% stays with the supermarkets. But while the farmers retain the biggest cut, keeping 43%
of the revenue, they also have to carry most of the costs. Farmers often claim that the money they
earn from selling their milk doesn't cover their costs. Things like electricity, veterinary bills,
credits, or other financial loans, their own cost of living, and most of all,
food for the animals. While one kilo of German milk sold for just over 50 cents in 2018,
it actually costs an average of 64 cents to produce, meaning any revenues made barely cover
79% of the farmers' costs. Another issue lies between producers and those further down the chain,
retailers. Retailers who are competing to offer the cheapest products to their consumers
hold the most negotiating power and will pressure farmers to sell their products
for an overly cheap price, while retaining most of the revenue from the sales in their own shops.
Sometimes up to half of the price paid by the consumers. Why dairy farmers produce too much
milk. Then, how do lower revenues lead to an overproduction of raw milk? To keep producers
afloat, milk processors might offer milk farmers financial loans. However, these loans and their
interest rate often pressure milk farmers to produce more milk to make a profit, sometimes
even more milk than the market demands. While more raw milk production benefits milk processors,
this is in many ways a problem rather than a solution. Pressure to increase milk production
creates an overstock of milk, flooding the market, resulting in a lower price for milk farmers.
It's basic economics. If there's too much milk supply and too little demand, you end up with
The issue with government subsidies. Simultaneously, national governments
and the EU have been providing agricultural subsidies to milk farmers. Income support for
farmers was launched back in the 1950s when the EU initiated a series of market interventions
like the Common Agricultural Policy, also known as CAP, to boost agricultural production. Under CAP,
EU countries started subsidising dairy products, which meant that farmers had a portion of their
In addition to subsidising milk farmers to keep milk prices from rising too high,
the EU also buys surplus milk to keep milk prices from falling too low. Historically,
the EU purchased surplus agricultural goods to minimise impacts on retail prices.
In 1986, for example, the EU bought 1.23 million tonnes of unwanted butter,
then exported it at cheap prices. And they still continue with this practice today.
Starting in 2014, the EU bought 400,000 tonnes of milk powder and stored it.
Most of it has been sold, with a financial loss estimated at 24 million euros.
Where the milk powder ended up? It's not clear.
But staying afloat as a farmer still seems to be challenging. As it stands, the subsidies issued
under CAP incentivises larger milk farms. Put simply, farmers receive direct payments
income support for every hectare of land they own. With a sinking milk price and lower profit
margins, small-scale farmers are pressured to grow, literally, increasing the size of their
land so that they can receive more income support. However, growing is hard to do,
as many milk farmers have buckled under pressure and are inevitably swallowed up by bigger milk
farms that have been enjoying the highest subsidisation from the EU. In fact, all European
countries have seen a decrease in the number of existing individual farms since 2005. This,
in part, may be because small milk farms are usually less profitable than big milk farms.
A sample taken from the US showed that small milk farms had two times higher production costs
than larger milk farms. Where labour costs are concerned, however, small-scale milk producers
in the EU often have similar labour costs to those of large-scale dairy farms, as small-scale
producers tend to rely on family labour. Furthermore, large milk farms are able to
operate more cost-effectively and can flood the market with cheap milk, putting even more pressure
on small milk farmers who can't afford to sell milk for such low prices. How are smaller milk
farmers coping today? Right now, there's a trend amongst milk farmers to move into niches to
maintain their livelihood, for example producing organic or grass-fed milk, a type of milk for
which animals have been fed only with fresh, natural fodder, like hay. In comparison to
conventional milk, organic, grass-fed, or organic and grass-fed milk is then sold for a higher price,
and many consumers seem willing to pay for it. Another way to cope involves shortening the milk
chain and selling dairy products directly to locals with milk vending machines or farm gate milk.
By avoiding a split in revenues with milk processors and supermarkets,
smaller milk farmers are able to retain a higher profit. The question, however, still remains,
why are we subsidising an industry with a lack of demand? The answer is not so straightforward,
particularly because different countries have different needs. While we often have an oversupply
of raw milk, some countries are even experiencing shortages of other dairy products like butter,
as suggested by Andreas Eder, researcher at the University of Natural Resources and Life Sciences
in Vienna. Whether switching completely to consuming and producing more plant-based
alternatives is really the best solution to this dilemma remains a disputed question.
However, a shift to a more balanced system with environmental and social issues in mind
seems like a reasonable and inevitable first step. Has listening to this article given you
a new perspective on milk production? Let us know on social media, linked in the description box.
This article was written by Katerina Kropsoffer and read by me, Kate Mack, originally posted on
foodunfolded.com. Food Unfolded explores the stories behind the food on our plate,
reconnecting us to the origins and sustainability of our food. Co-funded by the EU and powered by
EIT Food.