Athens, Delphi, Hosios Loukas, Cape Sounion: Wonders of mainland Greece

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Athens was placed under the protection of Athena, daughter of Zeus, who disputed the city with Poseidon. The goddess won the battle by planting an olive tree on the Acropolis. Acropolis, which is still sacred.
Greece is made up of three geographic regions.
To the north, continental Greece with the cities of Athens and Delphi.
To the south, separated by the Gulf of Corinth,
the Peloponnese Peninsula with the cities Epidaurus and Mycenae.
And of course, the islands that make up one-fifth of the total surface area of the country.
After the civilizations of the Cyclades and Crete concentrated on the islands,
the Mycenaean civilization flourished on the continent from the 16th to the 12th centuries BC.
Then invasions resulted in the destruction of the civilization
and marked the beginning of the ancient Greek period,
the classical or golden age of which was between the 6th and 3rd century BC,
with Athens as its leading city.
After that, the Romans and the Ottomans took control of the country
and molded it to their cultures.
Gaining independence in the 19th century,
Greece then became a popular part of the world for cultural as well as seaside tourism,
thanks to its Mediterranean climate.
Today, Athens is the capital and largest city of the country
with 750,000 inhabitants and over 3 million including its surroundings.
It is the political, economic and cultural heart of the Hellenic Republic
and holds the majority of its institutions,
like the Parliament, the Supreme Court and the headquarters of the government.
But Athens is also one of the most ancient cities in the world,
founded around the year 800 BC
with the fusion of several villages around the protected site of the Acropolis.
The Acropolis is a rocky plateau around 148 meters high,
the flat top of which measures 300 meters east to west and 85 meters north to south.
It is only accessible via a steep slope on the western side.
Traces of occupation dating to the Bronze Age have been discovered.
Then, in the 13th century BC, it was used for a fortress where the king lived
which was surrounded by powerful Cyclopean walls.
After the fall of the Mycenaean civilization during the archaic period of antiquity,
all the old fortifications, buildings and statues were destroyed
during the Persian occupation of Athens.
Then, entirely rebuilt in the classical era of the 5th century BC,
the Acropolis was no longer a fortress
and became a sanctuary sheltering several monuments and temples.
Now listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site,
it is one of the most visited touristic sites in the world.
Standing majestically on the Acropolis, the Parthenon is the symbol of ancient Greece.
The 70 meter long by 31 meter wide building was made entirely from marble
and since antiquity it has been considered a perfect representation of Doric architecture.
The 46 columns over 10 meters high have smooth capitals
and the layout follows a rigorous sense of proportions.
While today the work of the hundreds of sculptors is bleached white by the sun,
the sculptors were originally painted various colors
and decorated with gilded bronze in places.
On the pediments and on the entablatures resting on the colonnade,
the episodes portrayed deal as much with myth as with history and politics.
And the history of Athena, the daughter of Zeus, was naturally in the spotlight.
She was the patron goddess of the city and the Parthenon was her home.
In this sense the building was more than a temple,
it was a treasury that stood as a place of tribute to her.
The Erechtheion was the real temple where the goddess was worshipped.
Constructed shortly after the Parthenon,
it replaced an ancient temple which held a sacred statue made of olive wood.
The religious ceremonies themselves were held on an outdoor altar.
Later on then, the Baroque succeeded classicism here
and simplicity gave way to refinement.
It is the triumph of the Ionic style.
Attached to the temple, on the southern side,
there is the famous porch of the Karyatids
where six statues of draped young women serve as columns supporting the entablature.
The creation of this porch was a revolution at the time
due to the use of the women,
even if the clear folds of their peploi evoke the grooves of a column.
With a rare postural elegance,
each supports a capital that has the appearance of a basket.
The braids and curls of their hairstyles are all different and frame very noble faces.
It was the last monument erected on the Acropolis before the end of the 5th century BC
and is renowned for its elegant and unusual architecture.
We leave the Acropolis from the same pathway in which we arrived,
the sacred path that traverses the entire site
and passes through the Propylaia,
which are the monuments that make up the entrance to the sacred hill.
On the slope of the Acropolis, there is the most important theater of ancient Greece,
the theater of Dionysus, the god of wine.
The major celebrations of Dionysia were held there each year in his honor.
They initially consisted of songs, dances and ritual sacrifices,
taking the form of theatrical performances.
Its construction goes back to the 5th century BC
and in the beginning it consisted of only a hemispherical orchestra
with a dirt floor in front of a wooden stage
and the spectator sat on the natural slope of the site.
The stone structure that we can admire today was built 100 years later.
The first row of seats consisted of 67 marble thrones,
reserved for various dignitaries, magistrates, important people and judges of the competition.
Then, going up, the theater had 78 rows of seats and could hold 17,000 spectators.
The great Dionysia took place before the statue of the god
and were presided over by a great priest in the spring of each year.
During these celebrations, all the city's activities stopped
and the citizens were all invited to participate in the event,
which strengthened social cohesion.
What's more, even the prisoners were temporarily free to participate in the festival.
This event also attracted a considerable number of foreigners,
merchants and allies of the city of Athens.
The famous classical tragedies of Aeschylus, Sophocles and Euripides
were created for this occasion,
which made this structure the cradle of the ancient Greek drama and tragedy
that is still taught today in schools around the world.
In the 3rd century BC, the decline of the military power of Greece,
faced with all kinds of pirates,
led the Romans to conquer the country and include it in the Roman Empire.
For five centuries, local life continued more or less as it was before,
and in fact, Greek culture greatly influenced Roman culture,
which we now call Greco-Roman culture.
The theater of Herodes Atticus, a great Roman dignitary
and a rich friend of the emperor, is a vestige of this era.
It was built on the slope of the Acropolis in the year 161.
From the beginning, the main function of this audio room
was a site for the performance of theater and music.
Its excellent acoustic qualities made it an exceptional performance space.
The building was rather small and could hold 5,000 spectators,
while the population of the city totaled 300,000 inhabitants.
There was a restoration of the Odeon of Herodes Atticus in the 1950s
and the concentric rows of seats were refurbished.
They stage various tragedies, operas and dance performances there,
including the International Festival of Athens,
which is held here each year from May to September.
At the foot of the sacred hill, a new museum was created in 2009
to shelter objects from the monuments and excavations on the Acropolis.
Built on stilts, the museum preserves and incorporates
an archaeological site unearthed during its construction.
The distribution of the pillars was dictated by the location of the vestiges.
With a surface area of 25,000 square meters,
ten times larger than the old museum,
it can also exhibit numerous objects that were previously held in storage.
Notably, it holds the originals of the Karyatids,
which were replaced with copies on site.
The goal is to protect all these masterpieces
that deteriorate in the open air due to chemical reactions
with the pollution of the city, which eats away at the stone.
Four of the Karyatids are originals, the fifth is a copy,
and as for the sixth, it is held in the British Museum in London.
There is also the Great Frieze from the Parthenon,
which shows the major procession given by the city
in honor of the goddess Athena, which took place every four years.
On this day, a procession made its way towards the Temple of Athena,
the Erechtheion, in order to leave offerings
at the foot of the statue of the goddess.
The frieze, which portrays this event, was made of 115 blocks
and had a total length of 160 meters,
completely encircling the Parthenon.
Fifty meters of what remains of the frieze
are here in the Acropolis Museum.
Eighty meters are in the British Museum in London,
one block is in the Louvre Museum in Paris,
and other fragments are dispersed throughout various European museums.
But in Athens, the vestiges of ancient Greece do not stop at the Acropolis.
Spread throughout the city, the remains of this golden age
appear suddenly amidst the modernity,
like clues to decode to uncover its history.
At the foot of the Acropolis, the Agora was the meeting place
and market of the city.
It was also where there were government buildings
and democratic institutions,
as well as various religious edifices and courts.
Little by little, during the long Byzantine period
that followed the Roman era,
as the city contracted following barbarian invasions,
the Agora became a simple working-class area
in the small town that Athens had become.
Much later, in the 19th century,
the houses built on the remains of this square
were progressively purchased and razed,
and the ancient site was cleared.
Among the vestiges, a statue of Hadrian
shows the overlapping of the Greek world
and the Roman Empire between the 2nd century BC
and the 5th century AD.
On the armor of the emperor,
Athena, the patron goddess of Athens,
stands above a wolf, the symbol of Rome.
This not only means that Rome supported Greece,
but also that Greek culture dominated Rome.
This is a reminder that Rome,
after having conquered and brutalized the Greeks,
had been fascinated by Hellenistic culture,
starting with the reigns of Julius Caesar,
Augustus, and Hadrian,
who considerably enlarged the city.
But back to the golden age of ancient Greece.
On the Agora, there's the temple of Hephaestus,
the god of fire and brother of Athena.
Like the Parthenon,
this temple dates from the 5th century BC.
It is the best-conserved ancient monument in Athens.
Here, too, the Doric columns are slightly bulged
to give the temple a slender silhouette
for those who look towards the top.
Opened in 415, it is made entirely of marble
and its proportions also conform to the golden ratio.
The friezes evoke the combat and victory of Theseus,
the mythical founder of Athens,
over the centaurs,
creatures that were half man, half horse.
All around the temple,
sacred plants like pomegranate, myrtle, and bay trees
were planted to add to its harmony.
Apart from the Romans,
the Christians considerably changed the country
starting in the 1st century.
This was the slow but inexorable passage
from polytheism to monotheism.
Located near the southern entrance to the Agora,
the Church of the Holy Apostles
was the first large church in Athens,
even if today it resembles something more like
a small neighborhood church.
It was built at the end of the 10th century
on the site of an ancient Greek temple
in order to cover the growing need for parishes
in a constantly evolving city.
It contains a certain number of 17th century frescoes.
The initial outline of the church was a cross shape
with a marble floor and altar.
In the eastern part of the Agora,
the Stoa of Attalos is a portico
that contained around 40 shops in ancient times.
It was a shopping center
that was rebuilt identically in the 1950s
and now holds the museum of the ancient Agora.
Among its treasures,
there's a beautiful statue of Aphrodite,
the goddess of love, beauty and sexuality,
with a magnificent drape effect.
And two statues,
one of which represents the Odyssey,
Homer's literary masterpiece from the 7th century B.C.,
which recounts the adventures of Ulysses.
And the other, the Iliad,
which evokes the Trojan War with heroes like Achilles.
These two statues represent the two founding poems
of all European culture.
On Monastiraki Square,
a mosque is a reminder
that Greece was also part of the Ottoman Empire.
This is the area where the city's flea market is now held.
On the square,
the Church of the Pantanasa
is the only vestige of a 10th century monastery
that is now gone.
Just behind the ancient mosque,
Hadrian's Library had been created
by the Roman emperor in the year 132.
It had contained over 20,000 papyrus scrolls.
In the Byzantine era,
after the destruction of the city by the Visigoths,
people who came from the Ukraine in the 3rd century,
three churches were built on the site.
Ermou Street is the long, several-kilometer thoroughfare
that joins the archaeological center and the city center.
Its pedestrian zone
is the most popular and well-known shopping area.
With its high-end fashion boutiques and shopping centers,
it is one of the top 10 most expensive shopping streets
in the world.
In a small square right in the middle,
there's a small Byzantine church
probably built around the year 1050.
As was often the case with the first Christian churches,
it was built in the sight of an ancient Greek pagan temple
dedicated to the worship of a goddess,
certainly Athena or Demeter.
The walk continues
by plunging into the small streets of the Plaka.
It is the old historic neighborhood of Athens,
clustered around the northeastern slopes of the Acropolis.
It is mainly built around the ruins of the ancient Agora,
in an area that has been continuously inhabited
since the ancient times.
During the Ottoman domination,
Plaka was known as the Turkish Quarter of Athens.
In a maze of small streets,
the houses are painted in pastel hues or more vivid colors,
and it is now a very popular touristic neighborhood
where there are numerous restaurants and souvenir shops.
Adjacent to the old quarter,
the Agora called the Roman Agora
was begun by the emperor Augustus
at the end of the pre-Christian era.
This Agora was meant to complement the first,
which was by then very crowded.
It was a large 111 by 98 meters square,
surrounded by four-columned porticos.
The Tower of the Wind stands on the eastern side.
This octagonal tower was a monumental hydraulic clock
that worked on the principle of a regular flow of water over time.
It is remarkable for the high relief figures
of the gods of the wind that decorate each of its eight sides.
Furthermore, each of the sides of the monument
is exposed to the sun at a precise time of day.
The large, central rectangular space
was surrounded by shops and contained public latrines.
The western entrance has retained its monumental gate
marked by historic columns topped by a pediment.
It was the Gate of Athena.
During the Ottoman period,
the Roman Agora was built over by houses
that would only be demolished in the 19th century
when the square was brought back to light.
Overlooking the Agora's,
the Penix Hill was the seat of the assembly
of citizens who voted on laws and budgets
or the selection of judges by raising their hands.
The site was more calm than the Agora
and conducive to the various debates.
After Caesar and Augustus,
it was the emperor Hadrian
who worked the most for the city during the Roman period.
Many monuments still attest to that involvement today.
First of all, this arch,
which was built in his honor
after his visit to Athens in 131.
It marked the entrance of the new Athens
that the emperor hoped for.
It's a small, triumphal arc in the Roman style
topped by a light superstructure of Corinthian columns
and a pediment in a Hellenistic style.
The monument measures 18 meters high
and 12.5 meters wide.
A little further away,
there's the Olympion,
the Temple of Zeus.
Its construction,
which began in the 6th century BC,
was finished by Hadrian in the year 131.
Its sponsors wanted to make it
the largest temple in the world.
But of this 108 meter long temple
that had 104 17 meter high columns,
only 15 columns remain today,
supporting a few architraves.
The capitals are Corinthian,
sculpted and plant-like.
Hadrian dedicated the temple to Zeus,
the supreme god of Greek mythology.
He was the god of the air,
the blue sky,
and the weather.
He is the protector of the laws of the world
and gradually became the god of gods.
Ammonia Square,
or Concord Square,
is one of the main squares of Athens.
It is the former town center
rebuilt in the 1970s
and now rather notorious after dark.
Not far away,
the National Library of Greece
is a 19th century building
made of white marble
that evokes a Doric temple.
This is what is known
as neoclassical architecture.
This library contains
centuries of knowledge
and holds no less than
500,000 volumes
and 3,000 manuscripts.
It was financed by a member
of the rich Valianos family,
whose statue stands at the entrance.
Founded on May 3rd, 1837,
the University of Athens
is the oldest university
of the East Mediterranean.
Today, it is the second largest
but most prestigious in Greece,
with over 50,000 students.
On the square,
a statue of Ioannis Kapodistrias,
the governor of the Young Greek Republic,
freed from the Ottoman Empire in 1830.
Behind the portico of the façade
that makes you think of an ancient temple,
a fresco depicts a good number
of illustrious characters
from ancient Greece,
as well as allegories
of the disciplines taught
at the university,
like medicine and theology,
or astronomy and physics.
Like the library and the university,
the Academy of Athens
perfectly illustrates
the wave of neoclassicism
that swept through the Greek capital
in the 19th century.
Here, it's the domains of science,
the humanities,
and the fine arts.
The birth of Athena
figures on the pediment.
To the left,
a statue of Plato,
a philosopher of antiquity,
is flanked by a statue of Athena
perched on the top
of an Ionic column.
As the patron of the city,
as well as the goddess
of knowledge and wisdom,
Athena naturally
has her place here.
To the right,
it's Apollo,
the god of musicians,
who stands above Socrates,
another philosopher
from antiquity.
Here, too,
the Corinthian columns
and the marble
dominate the classical style.
And on the inside,
the frescoes recall
all the unifying mythology
of the Greek nation.
After having gained
independence in the 19th century,
the country rebuilt itself.
Athens,
which had become a small town,
raised its old neighborhoods
and opened wide avenues
bordered by modern buildings.
And turning its back
on the Ottomans,
it became deeply Europeanized
as a just reward.
Kolonaki,
the little column,
is a rich area
in the center of Athens
with its proximity
to government buildings
like the parliament
and the presidential mansion.
Syntagma Square,
or the Constitution Square,
is found there.
Luxury,
haute couture,
and jewelry shops
abound here,
as well as restaurants
and fashionable cafes.
It is the symbol
of independent,
modern Greece.
In the center,
there's a marble fountain
that is a key meeting point
for the Greek people,
who like to meet there
for demonstrations.
In a way,
it is the modern agora
of the city.
But Greece is not confined
to Athens,
it's capital.
Since the beginning
of its history,
the cities held sway
and fought wars
to establish their superiority
over each other.
In the 8th century BC,
in the mountains north
of the Gulf of Corinth,
Delphi was one
of the great sanctuaries
of ancient Greece
dedicated to the god Apollo.
On the slopes
of Mount Parnassus,
the ancient Greeks
from all the cities
came to consult the Pythia,
who was the priestess
who delivered the oracles,
meant to be
the god Apollo's responses
to the questions
that were brought to him.
The sanctuary contains
a large number of structures,
including the tholos,
which is a circular
shaped edifice
with a funerary
or religious purpose.
It is a rare
and atypical structure
due to its
distinctive architecture.
Originally,
20 door columns
supported the entablature
and the roof
decorated with tiles.
The tholos
is considered
the most beautiful monument
at Delphi,
but it is also
the most mysterious.
Its origin
and its purpose
are still unknown.
An earthquake
in 373 BC
provoked a landslide
that damaged
a part of the site,
but luckily
the catastrophe
was not too extensive.
The sanctuary of Delphi
was active
throughout the classical period
of ancient Greece
and even during
the Roman era
for more than
a thousand years.
On the sacred way,
a Roman agora
was even built
in the 4th century AD.
Equipped with a portico
containing shops,
this construction
was part of
a larger ensemble
that also contained
thermal baths and houses.
Today,
the columns of the portico
have been erected again
and behind them
you can see the spaces
that held the shops.
The use of bricks
is typical
of Roman buildings.
On an image
of the Temple of Apollo
as it was at the time,
you can see
the small Athenian portico,
which stands against
the supporting wall
at its feet.
Erected in 480 BC,
this portico
was a building
consisting of
48 Ionic columns,
only three of which
can still be seen today.
It contained trophies
taken from the Persians
after naval victories.
On the site,
the structures
are called treasuries.
During the consultation
of the oracles,
offerings were brought
to Apollo
and they were stored
in these buildings
depending on their richness.
Here,
the Sicyonian treasury
contained statues
and votive elements.
Much like the site
that had several
thousand of them
according to testimonies
from the era.
Here's a navel
of the world.
It was the symbol
of the unity
of the Greek world.
And here,
the Boeotian treasury.
Former rivals
of the Athenians,
they became
their most valued allies
in the war
against the Spartans
in the 4th century BC.
For the Athenians,
the Boeotians
had a reputation
for being uncultivated,
dimwitted,
and unsophisticated.
Even now,
the adjective Boeotian
means an uncultured person.
Sanctuaries
were architectural complexes
outside of the cities
and their politics.
Which means
that they were frequented
not only by the ancient Greeks
but also by the nearby
sometimes barbarian people
who worshiped
the same gods.
The site is traversed
by a sacred path
that was used
for processions
and led to all
the sites of worship
dispersed across
the side of the mountain
up to the sanctuary.
It passes in front
of the Athenian treasury,
built around 480 BC
to commemorate
the victory
against the Persians
at Marathon.
Amongst the numerous
more or less
well-preserved vestiges
of the site,
the theater,
with a 5,000 person capacity,
was built
in the 4th century BC.
With its 35 rows of seats,
it can now be seen
in its state
from the Roman imperial era.
They held festivals here
that celebrated
Apollo's victory
over the serpent Python.
The role of the theaters
at the time
of their construction
was closely tied to religion.
In the Greek world,
theatrical performance
was born from
the celebration of Dionysus.
Dionysus was the god of wine
and the inebriation
that made it possible
to pass from the imagination
to reality,
just like the illusion
of theater
gives life to the imagination
of the author on stage.
The theater was thus
a vector of mysticism
in ancient Greece.
Just below the theater,
the temple of the master
of the site, Apollo.
At the end of it,
there's an altar
where sacrifices
were carried out.
Usually,
they were goats
whose throats were slit.
The animals were first
washed with water
and if they shiver
during this rite,
they were fit
for the ceremony.
The temple itself
is rectangular
with an elongated form
measuring 23 by 60 meters.
It had six Doric columns
on its facade
and 15 on each side.
After the sacrifice,
the great priests arrived
and the oracle
was questioned.
If there should be a war
or not,
if someone should get married,
if it would be dangerous
to do such and such
a thing, etc.
The pilgrims
were separated from the Pythia
by a curtain
when she was in a trance.
She then uttered words
that were incomprehensible
to the common man,
but not to the priests
who translated
the responses
to the questions asked.
In verse until
the 3rd century BC
and in prose afterwards.
In the temple,
a sacred fire
was maintained
and always kept burning.
The stadium,
built in the 5th century BC,
was also remodeled
by the Romans
in the 2nd century AD.
Every four years,
the games called
the Olympic Games
demanded a truce
between the cities
that were in perpetual conflict
or even war.
The truce began
a month earlier
so that all the competitors
could arrive peacefully
and train there
following an identical diet.
The sporting events
for which the participants
were completely nude
began with horse races,
harnessed or not.
Then the pentathlon unfolded
which included
five disciplines.
The discus throw,
the javelin throw,
the long jump,
running and wrestling.
And there was only
one winner
who was awarded.
At Delphi,
the archaeological museum
compensates for the things
missing from the site.
First of all,
it displays a model
that shows the sanctuary
as it was during antiquity.
It shows the place
occupied by the temple
facing the theatre
or the treasuries.
The board showing
the symphony and treasury
clearly shows all the attention
that was paid
to the architecture
and decoration
of the various monuments.
The pediment was rediscovered
during excavations
in 1893.
The frieze that runs
around the entire edifice
shows the Olympians
deciding the fate of Troy,
seated and talking
while before them
the Greeks and their enemies
battle furiously.
The treasury
made of brilliant marble
was preceded
by an entrance
with two columns
that supported the architrave.
These columns
were in the form
of karyates,
the young girls
richly dressed in robes
and Ionian jewellery.
Another wonder
of the museum,
the statues said
to be of Cleobis and Biton,
called the twins of Argos,
which were created
around 600 BC.
With their stocky
and muscular stature,
the twins
could have been wrestlers.
Legend has it
that their mother,
very proud of her sons,
asked the goddess Hera
to give them the best.
The two brothers
then went to sleep
and never woke up.
In this,
the goddess showed
that it was better
for them to die
than to live,
possibly sparing them
from suffering,
although nobody knew.
In one of the rooms
you can see fragments
from the pediments
of the temple of Apollo.
Dionysus is shown
on one of them.
In Greek mythology,
Dionysus is the god
of the vine,
of wine and its excesses,
of madness
and in moderation,
as well as theatre
and tragedy.
He is the son of Zeus,
but does not live
on Mount Olympus.
He is a wandering god.
Of the other pediment,
there only remains
a piece of a lion
devouring an antelope
and a fragment
of a young girl.
Another statue
shows Aegeus,
a wrestling champion,
who was inadvertently
killed by Telemachus
during bare-fisted combat.
His brother Agelaus
was also a wrestler,
but less talented.
With the two
previous statues,
this third one
was part of a group
of seven given
to the sanctuary of Apollo
by a rich family.
In the room,
there's a Roman copy
of the Amphalos,
the stone navel of Delphi.
The original marked
the point where,
according to legend,
the eagles released by Zeus
at the two ends of the Earth
crossed paths,
defining the center
of the world.
Through the remains
of the statues
and finely chiseled columns,
you can appreciate
the degree of skill
and expertise
of the sculptors
who worked at Delphi
2,500 years ago.
Certainly the best
of ancient Greece.
As proof,
this 13-meter-high tripod
with three dancers,
which held a bronze cauldron
for the offerings.
Like a giant perfume diffuser.
These are the priestesses
of Dionysus.
To the left,
the marble altar
of the Temple of Athena
shows sculptures in relief.
Just like the magnificent friezes
found in the ruins
of the theater.
Another vestige
of the Roman era,
this marble statue
portrays Antinous.
This lover
of the emperor Hadrian
died at 20 years old,
drowned in the Nile
in circumstances
that remain mysterious.
Today,
he's one of the most famous
faces of antiquity.
Another famous portrait,
that of Flamininus,
a Roman general
who saved Greece
from the Macedonian invaders
in the 2nd century BC.
He was one of the first
Romans to appreciate
and spread Greek culture
in his own country.
But the most famous
piece in the museum
is certainly
the charioteer of Delphi.
This bronze statue
the size of a man
was commissioned
by a Greek prince
to commemorate the victory
of his chariot
in the Olympic Games
of 478 BC.
The statue
is of the chariot driver.
The cult of Apollo
taken up by the Romans
will come to an end
in 392,
when the Christians,
the rulers of Rome
at the time,
outlaw all pagan cults.
Then the dark ages
of barbarism
will bury this culture
forever under rubble
and oblivion.
The new masters
of the Mediterranean,
the Byzantine Christians,
who had already
built churches
in the 1st century,
will then guide Greece
towards new
mystical destinations.
Twenty kilometers
from Delphi,
the monastery
of Hosios Loukas,
or the Monastery
of St. Luke,
is among the most
beautiful Byzantine
monasteries of the country.
It was built in 1011
on the foundations
of a church
built in 944
and consecrated
by its founder,
Luke,
a hermit
of the 10th century.
It is now
one of the most
important medieval
structures in Greece
and is listed
as a UNESCO
World Heritage Site.
Originally,
in 946,
Luke built himself
a lodge
and a garden
on the site
of an abandoned
Greek temple
to live as a hermit.
He had the gift
of healing
and prophecy,
which is why
after his death
his tomb
was the destination
of numerous pilgrimages.
A first church
dedicated to the virgin
was already built
and the second,
for the pilgrims,
was begun
in the second half
of the 10th century.
The gallery
that you can see
on the second level
is the genasium,
the women's area,
which forms
a platform
running along
three sides
of the building.
The large dome
measures 9 meters
in diameter.
500 years later,
after the Turkish
conquest,
the Latin monks
were replaced
by Orthodox ones.
The monastery
was often pillaged
and suffered
numerous earthquakes,
but today
it is still occupied
by a few
Orthodox monks.
The monks
follow an austere rule
and dedicate
much of their time
to meditation and prayer,
but they also
have to carry out
all the manual labor
necessary
for their subsistence.
The monastery
has vast agricultural spaces
and the cultivation
of olive trees
holds an essential place.
Within the walls
of the monastery
you can see
all kinds of side buildings
for specialized work
like baking,
sewing,
cooperage
and the making
of olive oil.
The larger
of the two churches
dedicated to St. Luke
is found to the right
of the courtyard.
Its facade
shows clear signs
of the recuperation
of stones
as Greek marble
is mixed
with Roman bricks.
A beautiful fresco
decorates the portico
of the entrance
and you can see
an Arabian decoration.
Today,
the visitor's entrance
goes through the refectory
turned into
a small museum.
Then the church
is preceded
by a rectangular vestibule,
the narthex,
reserved at the time
for people
who were not yet baptized.
On the ceiling
the archangels
Michael,
Gabriel,
Uriel
and Raphael
keep watch.
The interior of the church
retains much
of its 11th century decoration.
It is divided
in two zones,
the lower section
adorned with slabs
of precious marble
and the upper section
with its decoration
of mosaics
created by artists
who came from
the capital
of the Byzantine Empire.
The cupola
is decorated
with a figure of Christ,
master of the universe.
On the vault
of the central apse
a mosaic
on a gold background
depicts the mother of God
on a throne
holding the child
savior of the world.
Below there are
the apostles
who represent
the word of Jesus
and beyond that
the word of God.
One corner
is decorated
with the episode
of the baptism of Christ
in the Jordan
by Saint John the Baptist.
The second
and older church
is dedicated
to the Virgin.
It was begun in 946
and finished in 955,
only two years
after the death
of the saint.
Here,
the decorations
have disappeared
over the course of time.
But you can still admire
the beautiful
religious icons.
Beneath the church
the crypt consists
of a central nave
at the back of which
there's the tomb
of the saint.
This is where people
come to venerate him,
even if today
the tomb is empty
because his relics
were transferred
to the Vatican
in Rome, in Italy.
The walls
and ceiling of the crypt
are covered by frescoes
and superb mosaics.
With a square layout
the crypt has
several chapels
including one decorated
with a beautiful
11th century fresco
depicting the descent
from the cross.
This monastery
is truly a treasure
of religious art.
You can admire
one of the best preserved
and most complete cycles
of Byzantine iconography
in Greece.
This site is above all
remarkable for its mosaics,
all with golden backgrounds
and the refinement
of its marble,
jasper
and porphyry
decorations.
The monastery
of Hosios Loukas
belongs to the
Orthodox Church
which is understood
as the Christian Church
of the origins
of which all
of the other churches
are members
including the Roman
Catholic Church.
It refuses the authority
of the Pope
only recognizing
that of Jesus Christ
through the writings
of the Apostles,
the Gospels.
Further north,
Cape Sunio
is especially famous
for the ruins
of a temple
devoted to Poseidon.
The first mention
of the Cape
in the ancient texts
occurs in the Odyssey
which mentions
Cape Sunio
as the sacred
cape of Athens.
The ruins
of the temple of Poseidon
built in the
mid-5th century B.C.
overlook the sea
from a height
of 60 meters.
Today,
the bay
has been transformed
into a seaside resort
extremely popular
with the Athenians.
The pillars of the temple
rise 6.10 meters high
with a base diameter
of one meter.
Their splines
were designed
to resist
the effects
of saline air.
Homer called
the temple of Poseidon
the sacred promontory
and here,
navigators called upon
the god of the sea.
According to legend,
Cape Sunio
is the place
where Aegeus,
father of Theseus,
leapt to his death
by jumping off
of the cliff
because he believed
that his son
had perished
in a battle
against the Minotaur.
Thus the name
of the Aegean Sea,
the famous sea
that surrounds Greece.
You can see
with its rich past
that Greece
is truly
the cradle
of western civilization.
During the first
millennium BC
it planted the seeds
of a culture
that is still
in force today.
The first republican history
Athenian democracy
knew a great
intellectual life
bringing together
philosophers
and playwrights.
The Greeks
are also considered
the inventors of logic
and the precursors
to physics,
mathematics
and astronomy.
Furthermore,
Greek art
is still considered
a model
of balance
and proportion
for artists
around the world.
Throughout history
ancient Greece
strongly influenced
the culture
of modern
western civilization.
