Rock of Cashel, Ireland's Sacred Ruins

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One of the main places you'll want to see when visiting Ireland is the Rock of Cashel, Ireland's most important medieval site.
From a distance it is a most unexpected and wonderful pile rising on three hundred feet of rock in the middle of an immense flat empty plain, like some gigantic magic palace, suspended in air.
The picturesque complex has a character of its own and is one of the most remarkable collections of Celtic art and medieval architecture to be found anywhere in Europe. A unique, historic cathedral, castle, and round tower.
One of the main places you'll want to see when visiting Ireland is the Rock of Cashel,
Ireland's most important medieval site. From a distance it's a surprising and wonderful pile,
rising on 300 feet of rock in the middle of an immense flat empty plain like
some gigantic magic palace suspended in air. The Rock of Cashel is the ruins of an ancient
church that goes back over a thousand years when you get to the foundations. It started
originally as a fort and a castle, and the church was built up in the 13th century,
and now it's a wonderful Gothic ruins, one of the highlights of the trip to Ireland, the Rock of
Cashel. The picturesque complex has a character of its own. It's one of the most remarkable
collections of Celtic art and medieval architecture to be found anywhere in Europe,
a unique historic cathedral, castle, palace, graveyard and round tower.
The group of ancient buildings stands high above the town of Cashel, a typical Irish village with
colorful shops along the main streets. And just on the other side of town you'll drive along and
get some views of the cathedral up on the hill as you pull into the convenient visitor parking
area. From there it's a short walk up to the cathedral complex which sits on top of this
massive natural rock outcrop, thus giving it the name Rock of Cashel, which is a slightly
misleading label for the complex. There is much more here than a rock. It's a complex of five
major ancient buildings, all of which you are going to see in the tour.
That door leads to what had been the bishop's palace back in the 16th century. When you enter
and stand under the great central arch of the old cathedral, you will experience an ancient
sight of thrilling grandeur. We'll see more of the interior shortly, but also there's a great
perspective on the outside. For the complete visit you'll want to walk all the way around
the periphery of the building complex through the evocative graveyard, with its ancient tombstones
and Celtic crosses. You'll gain further insight from the local guides. Now just behind you then
you have the bell tower of the cathedral, where simply the bell of the cathedral was rung. And
this building is also known as the bell house or bell tower. You can see it's quite tall, 92 feet
in all. And from up here would have been stored the large bell. It's about 850 years old and it's
the oldest building here on the site today. We would have been told growing up that these towers
were built for protection and for this and that, which is not true, but it's a bell tower. So they
would have gone up and it's the same thing you would find in a muslim mosque. When they do
they call it the prayer from their tower. You go up there, you ring the bell because nobody has a watch,
nobody knows when church is or what time of day it is, so you go up and you ring a bell
and you can see there's four windows, north, south, east and west, and they'll ring in every
direction. Now you'll notice around this area that it's been used as a cemetery for quite a number of
years, and anybody from the town of Cashel or indeed the surrounding areas actually had burial
rites up here on the rock until 1930. You will be entranced by the picturesque tombs and crosses,
but as you walk along and look up then you'll realize a more spectacular sight is waiting for
you, the vista across the miles of green fields and rolling hills, especially on such a fine and
clear sunny day in a place that's often rainy. At your feet lies the Vale of Tipperary. It's an
expanse of greenest greens stretching unbroken over some of the fairest and most fertile land
in Ireland. There is no other historic place of its kind in the country situated quite like it,
overlooking as good a landscape as the human eye can gaze upon. After soaking up the delights of
that grand vista and the extensive graveyard, you'll want to walk back inside the cathedral
for a good look at the interior architecture, and it helps to have that local guide telling
you about it. Okay this building here is called Saint Patrick's Cathedral. It dates back to the
13th century and this one is gothic in style, clearly seen by the pointed arches around the
building, and the pointed arch was said to symbolize being nearer or closer to God.
Now these windows over here were typical of the style of windows used in the 13th century.
They're called lancet windows and there would be three more here behind me, but they were actually
blown down during a storm. Now you'll notice the cathedral here is in the shape of a crucifix,
or its cruciform in plan, and it took 65 years in all to build.
Cashel's historical importance dates back much farther than the foundation of its cathedral.
Long before the church came to Cashel, the pagans held their barbarous rites and ceremonies on this
rock. In the middle of the 5th century, Saint Patrick arrived here in the course of his
extraordinary mission through Ireland. It is said that Saint Patrick converted and baptized
King Angus and founded the first Irish Christian church on the Rock of Cashel. After that it was
owned and occupied by the church and was seat of the archbishop. Sometimes when visiting a church
you get lucky and run into some music, like we did with this boys' choir from Germany.
We are the youth choir of St. Magdalena from Germany. Yeah, where? Herzogaurach,
near Nuremberg. Okay, St. Magdalena, that's very nice, thank you. We'll listen to them for a while
and then I'll tell you a little bit more about the history of the church with some really
interesting details, including the strange story of how the church lost its roof.
From the 4th century until the 12th century, Cashel was the residence of the Kings of Munster,
which was the southern half of Ireland. After that it became church property.
It was attacked, damaged and rebuilt several times in its history, most notably in 1495 when
it was burned down and then rebuilt and then attacked again in 1647 by the English troops
loyal to Oliver Cromwell and the parliamentarians. But the biggest destruction was done by its own
Archbishop Price in 1744, who removed the roof and converted the whole church into a ruin.
That archbishop was a rather decadent man who loved easy luxury, yet this church was located
most inconveniently on top of the steep hill. The only way the archbishop could get to it was
to walk. He then spent a lot of money trying to build a carriage road up to the rock, but
he finally gave up. Then he built a new cathedral in the town, which was easier for him to reach.
Incredible as it may seem, since he couldn't remove the big church, Bishop Price determined
to destroy it and ordered government soldiers to tear the roof off and knock down the vaulting.
His decision to remove the roof from what had been the jewel among Irish church buildings
was severely criticized. Ironically, what remained has become a primary tourist destination,
a ruin but stately and beautiful, perhaps even more attractive because of its evocative grandeur
of what had proudly functioned as one of Ireland's greatest cathedrals.
These ancient stone walls still stand and form the center of this group of celebrated ruins,
which are unparalleled in Ireland for picturesque beauty and antiquarian interest.
It's a noble remnant of the early pointed Gothic with many fascinating relics.
Your tour continues with more walking around on the grounds and admiring different angles
on the outside of the structure and visit inside the small museum, and then you'll come across
Cormac's Chapel, a Romanesque structure from the 12th century. The small museum is in a 15th
century barrel-vaulted building that used to be used as residence and dining facilities for the
church, with its main treasure at the far end, the cross of St. Patrick, which depicts Christ in
the center as the main figure, and to one side it's believed to be that of St. Patrick. Also
displayed here are various carvings and artifacts of the period. Next to it is the Hall of the
Vicars, a main living space for the priests. And that completes our in-depth look at the
Rock of Cashel, also known as Cashel of the Kings and St. Patrick's Rock. Hopefully you'll
have a little more time at the end to enjoy that vista across the Vale of Tipperary,
with a second or third look to help appreciate the magnificence of this major attraction.
We got lucky again and found a friendly dog and friendly local owner. This is Lucy,
a Bernese mountain dog, and she just loves to be petted. I think I can fit one more thing in my bag.
Not only is the dog friendly but so is her owner. That's the nice thing about petting the dog,
it's an icebreaker. You just might find yourself in a conversation with a friendly Irishman.
So by all means if you'd like a chat and you see a relaxed local sitting on a bench,
stop by and say hello.
For some dog lovers this would perhaps be more interesting than walking around among the old
stones and graveyard up on the hill. Pulling ourselves away from all the fun and departing,
we take another drive through the small town of Cashel. There are some lovely shops and restaurants
here, so this could be a very good place for you to take a break when you're done with your visit
to the historic sites up on the hill. Have some tea or enjoy some retail therapy looking for
locally made handcrafts. This is part of our series on Ireland, which we have visited many
times and have lots of movies available in our collection, especially focusing on the west side
of Ireland, visiting Connemara, Galway, Dingle, Kinsale, Killarney, Cashel and other points in
between, including a brief look at Bantry Bay, famous for the song the young German choir was
singing back up in the cathedral for our grand finale.
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