Wood Turning Osage Orange & Resin Bowl || The EVIL Eye

Alright so this video has to start out a little differently because I didn't film any of making the blank, which isn't a big deal, it's the same process almost every time and this was no exception. I went ahead and I did use the TotalBoat Slow Hardener, this is a 2 to 1 mix for this bowl. I did have a void that came out in the blank and that's where we're going to pick up this video. So here are a few photos I did find I put up on my Instagram when I was making this blank. Those were the colors I mixed up. That was how the blank came out. The void's on the back side. But here you can see it, I turned the blank and you'll see this big void. I have no idea why or how it got there because the log inside was just a piece of Bodark or Osage Orange as a lot of people like to call it. I turned the edges off but it wasn't like a root ball or anything, it was a pretty standard log. So here we are, I got it mounted up on the lathe now and it's a really good looking blank. That's why I didn't film the beginning, I didn't intend for this to be a video for YouTube. I just intended this to be my practice turn with some TotalBoat. But anyway, so to fix this I just taped up the top of the blank where the void was and then filled in the side and I tried mixing the colors but you'll see there's kind of a blotch of green at the end. But there's no witness mark which I was very excited about. So here we are, we're finally starting to turn. I pull out my 40-40 grind bowl gouge which I've switched to, I love the 40-40 grind. On wood, I still don't like the bowl gouges on resin. You'll see I keep trying to use them, trying to get those clean cuts I see other people with. But I do tend to always switch back to carbide. Now with a solid wood bowl, I love the bowl gouge, I love the finish it gets, it's just amazing. But when dealing with resin or wooden resin like here, I just have a much better finish off of carbide tools. So for me and where I'm at in my turning journey, I'm just going to use what works. And right now that's what's working for me. I mean I've never sold anything where somebody said, well what kind of tool did you use to make this? You know, people don't care. The only people that care about that stuff are other turners. If a bowl looks good at the end, if whatever project looks good at the end to you and to other people, then it was a success and that's the bottom line. Now here you'll see a tool that I made to fit a negative rate carbide scraper. I kept hearing about these and I wouldn't spend the money on them. And let me tell you, Mr. Duca Heritage was kind enough to send one over. He said, you gotta try it. I tried it and immediately after I ordered two more. So he definitely made a believer out of me. If you haven't heard of Duca Heritage, go check out his channel. If you think the stuff I turn is cool, that dude got some skills. He's got an eye for it. He does a great job. He's an all around good guy. Fairly new channel growing very quickly. And now we have the overall shape of the bowl. I even liked leaving that green at the bottom. I just think it gave it a little something extra. So here I am just putting the mortise in. Pretty standard technique. I kind of dig it out with the parting tool, flatten it, and then I put my little dovetail in with a skew. Now I'm going to speed through my sanding, but what I've figured out is I like to start out my first grit, which for this bowl was 80 by hand, and really that's the one that takes longest. Then I use all my 2 inch sanding disc to go up to around 600 with a wooden resin bowl. If this was just a wood bowl, I'd probably stop around 300, 320, something like that. Put in my brand, then I'll sand my brand just to kind of get the burn marks around the outside. Then I like to start putting on my shellac sealer. Now depending on the shine I'm looking for depends on how many coats. This is just alcohol and the regular wax shellac diluted 50% with alcohol, and I put 4 coats on this one because I wanted it to be a little bit more shiny, and I hit it with 800 with the sanding pad. I wipe off any dust that might have been created, and I start using my homemade sanding paste. I call this an extra fine sanding paste, and I kind of walk you through how I like to use it. I like to load up my paper towel. I rub it all over the bowl. I mean, you really can't put too much of this stuff on, but what I'm doing here is I'm trying to make sure everywhere is covered. I feel that grittiness all over the bowl, the sides, the bottom. At this point, I'm not worrying about cracks or anything like that. I just rub it all over the damn thing. Then I turn it on, and I think I'm usually around 1,000. I'm not looking to melt the wax at this point. The wax is just a carrier for the grit. I'm also still using the same paper towel I initially wiped it on with. Here, I'm just rubbing it on. Now, you better hang on to this towel because it's got some grab to it, but you'll know you're finished when you feel the grab, the grabbiness of it start going away. That's when I switch to a new paper towel, and at this point, all I'm trying to do is remove any of the residue or grit that might be left, and when your paper towel is coming back clean, you know you're finished. Now, anything that might have gotten in the voids or a crack, I remove with a toothbrush, and you're left with just this ultra smooth, beautiful finish. Now, there's more. Now we got the tongue wax finish to put on top of it. Now, you see that dab there? That covers the entire outside of the bowl. This stuff a little goes a long way with these, and it's literally the simplest finish. You cannot screw this up because if you put too much on, it's no big deal. Rub it all over the bowl, and then I like to just let it sit there for a few minutes, usually however long it takes me to pick up my shop, kind of get a little more organized, come back, use that same rag I applied it with, and at this point, you're trying to build up that friction. You want that heat. You want to melt the wax into the bowl. This has beeswax and carnauba wax, so you got to get it pretty hot. Now, after I've made one long pass melting the wax all the way through the bowl, I stop like I'm doing here. Look at that -----toy-ance, and I let it kind of cool off, then I come back with a clean paper towel because sometimes there will still be a little bit of a greasiness, but I like that because it lets me kind of shine up the bowl a little bit more. Look at the reflection you can see in the bowl already, and it's just a great finish. It is available at my Etsy store for sale if you're interested, and I'll leave a link to that in a pinned comment and in the description if you want to try some out yourself. They're small kits, so they're not very expensive. All right, so here's the part that I get nervous about on every bowl. You've got the outside done. You're excited because it's looking great. Now you've got to try not to screw up hollowing it out, right? Now, I did drill it out a little bit, as you can see, when we first started just to kind of get that slow-moving wood out of the way, and I worked on the rim, and now I'm just going to be getting material out of there. I love this little tool I made. I bought this shaft for like 25 bucks off of Amazon. It's got an 8.9 millimeter round carbide on the end of it, and it is just a hollowing machine. It has made hollowing a pleasure to do now. I put around an 18-inch handle on this tool because it reaches in about 9 inches, and then also on the back end, I drilled it out with about a 5-eighths hole and filled it with lead BBs to kind of give that back end some more weight. I also epoxied in a nut so eventually I can screw in a counterweight if I want to add even more weight to it but still be able to remove it, so very versatile tool, very fun tool to make, and I could possibly do a video on it. If you would be interested in that, leave a comment down below. Let me know what you think. You can see the nut on the back of the handle right there, and then when I got this mostly shaped how I wanted, I came back with the negative rate carbide, and I kind of used this as a bowl scraper, and it worked very well, especially for the little undercut right before the rim that a normal bowl scraper just wouldn't get to. Now that I got the inside mostly how I like it, I want to work on this rim and kind of the curvature transition of it dropping down into the bowl. So that's what I'm doing here, and at this point I'm very nervous because I'm almost to the finish line. I can feel it. I just want to get it exactly how I want it. This is the part where you're just kind of smoothing out those last final details, and the last thing you want is a catch that just shatters your epoxy and forces a design change, we'll call it. So that's also why I'm using the negative rate carbide, because it's a very safe tool to use. I can't even imagine how you could get a catch with using a negative rate carbide. So here we are just sanding, same technique, same finishing I did on the outside. I went ahead and hit it with 80 grit by hand, then went 100 to 600 with the little 2 inch sanding pads on the drill, and I took the pads off and I'd have to get that inner lip by hand, sucking out the dust as I went. Then again with the shellac, I think I still did 4 coats, and the great thing about the shellac is it probably only took me about maybe 30 minutes to do those 4 coats because it takes maybe 10 minutes max to dry. And the same technique with the sanding paste, after you rubbed it in without the lathe on, you're just trying to rub in the abrasive until the grittiness feeling smooths out, you're getting no more residue on your paper towel, then you move on to your tongue wax, and again, same exact technique, wipe it on, let it sit about 10 minutes, melt that stuff right on into the bowl, and then you come back with a fresh paper towel, kind of buff it on out, you can see the reflection in the bowl right there, it's just beautiful, I like to hit the outside again when I'm finishing up and completing the bowl. That's it, she's done, and I've gotta say, I think this has turned out to be the best bowl I've ever done, to date. There's not a single thing I don't like about it, I love the colors that my wife helped me pick out, I love the wood I chose to use, the bodark is beautiful in there, got an amazing chatoyance, as they say. I'm pretty sure this is where the void was that started out, I can't see any kind of witness line or anything in it. As I talked about in the video, I do have my own finish I've been selling, now I'm very pleased with this, I've sent this out to quite a few other woodturners on Instagram and on YouTube, they've all been very pleased with it as well, I don't want to drown the video trying to promote my own product, but if you are interested in trying this out, you can find a link to my Etsy store in the description, it is under the Brad's Workbench name, my main page, more tool related, I do a lot of tool reviews, do a second edit of these videos but focus on the tools used, like I'll talk more about the total boat and how it performed, I'll talk more about this, any tools I happen to make, that's what that channel is mainly for. So I hope you enjoyed this bowl, there's going to be a few little beauty shots at the end, and we'll see you on the next one.