Woodturning a thuya burl blank into a carved wavy bowl. This burl has incredible grains and colours but sanding this wood has been a rather unpleasant experience. Used my angle grinder to carve this piece after I carefully marked out the formation of the waves. Finished with mineral oil what has done a great job to pop the wood grains.
In the future I would like to share my creations with the audience here ranging from both simple woodturning ideas ideal for beginners but also more complex and artistic works for those like a bit of challenge. 😊 Please support my channel by subscribing and hit the notification bell button so you will not miss my future projects. Thanks for watching and see you back soon for my next weekly video 😊
DISCLAIMER: Please do not solely rely upon the information and techniques discussed and displayed in my channel. I am not a professional woodworker, wood turner and working with machinery and electricity can be dangerous however I try to share good practices, techniques and products what works for me. It is recommended that you fully research each technique and decide for yourself what the safest possible work method is for you.
Would you like to see a little sneak peek?
Today I'm working with the massive tuya burl and this is the second time I'm working with
this wood. I previously made a small little hollow form, oh here you are, out of this burl and it
looked incredible so I decided to buy a bigger blank and let's see what we can turn out of this
burl. I'm using a face plate to mount this piece on my lathe, this is probably one of the safest
method to mount the piece onto a lathe and there are obviously several different ways of doing it
but once you have a nice flat surface, screwing a face plate then mounting onto the lathe,
securing with the tailstock, it probably will never come off unless you really want to. So
definitely for any beginner they're probably the safest method to start turning any round shape.
Starting off at slow speed just truing up this piece, as you can see it's slightly slightly
off the centre, after a little bit of a turning it will be nice and round and then we can move
on to really start shaping this piece into our design and designated shape.
Quick measuring of one of my chuck jaws, this will be used for
mounting the piece once I'm working on the inside of this
bore, so here we are making a little more ties for the bottom of the bore.
Using a skew chisel just to remove the excess materials in the middle and flatten the bottom
and then also because my jaws are dovetailed so it has a slight angle to have a better grip,
I'm using my skew chisel as well to do the same dovetail at the bottom so it will
have a really good grip once it is on the chuck.
And we are off to start shaping, I will keep this on the face plate as long as I can, I will start
working on the bottom and once the bottom is ready with rough shaping I will then turn over to
the chuck. Here I'm using two different techniques, one is a pull cut and this one is a push cut,
some people prefer either, I do like to use both of them depending on what part of the project I'm
working on, again now this is a pull cut so I'm pulling my chisel towards myself or when you do
a push cut you're pushing your chisel away from yourself. So because this bore will be carved
the bottom side of the the wave I'm designing in my head and just popping the grain to show
how incredible this will look and we certainly have a very promising wood to work with.
And while this wood looks absolutely incredible I will tell you very soon why I'm probably
never going to use this wood again, there is a good reason. And now we are ready to work on the
inside of the ball and I'm just truing up the front sides before I can start hollowing the
inside and then we can move on to carving our tiny little waves. I'm just eyeballing the
bottom side where the ball ends and then I will also mark kind of the thickness I want it to have
once the inside is also hollowed out and as you can see it's probably a good centimeter, I kept
us for the ball thickness and then I can start gently removing some materials from the inside.
Okay and now we are on to the exciting part, this is where I'm marking out how and where the
waves will start and finish. I'm using my indexing system which is built into the lathe
so as you rotate you can mark each segment equally so I can divide then the piece into
different parts and mark where the wave will start and with some secondary linings where the
wave will have highest and lowest point. Do not draw another line in the middle which really had no
purpose so you could just ignore that. These are just guidelines so I won't be exactly following
them but at least it gives me a rough idea how to form the waves into and how to carve as I'm
going along the the line to kind of guide me through to give back that wave pattern and again
another pointless marking maybe I just did it for the camera or I knew I will voice over it so
this is the part where I will have to carve out and here again I'm just marking out the highest
points so when I do the front face of the carving I know where the highest points should be. The
it removes material very fast you have to be very careful as you can see at the bottom I
don't go all the way down to the to the line just to have some some wall thickness for the
for the wave but it went fairly fairly quick but something will not be as quick and I'll come to
that very soon and this was probably the first real giveaway this piece won't be easy to send
little salt bay action oh I should say dust bay action so for some reason the dust really
stick together like it was either wet but I checked the moisture content and it was okay
so what I can assume this wood has naturally a higher oil content so I'm not not too sure but
for some reason the dust just really stick together which I knew at this point it would be a
to send and I will show you why exactly but for some reason it was just really sticking in
everywhere and not acting like a normal normal wood dust for some of the trickier places and
smaller places I'm using my smaller angle grinder this one has a two inch or a 50 mil
disc compared to the other one has a four inch disc so it removes a lot more material but also
harder to get into smaller places and if you like what I do and you haven't already subscribed
please smash the big red button and we are off to the finishing stages let's do some sending and
this turned out a heck of a job so as mentioned before the dust particles for some reason they
were really sticking together so after a couple of seconds of sanding my sandpaper was just clogged up
so I'm using this sandpaper cleaner rubber block I think that is a very official name for it and
it did help and it did help but after just a couple of seconds of sanding it was clogged up
again and I had to finish this piece with hand sanding and I won't bother you to death because
it took me literally around three to four hours hand sanding to kind of reach to this look
it's sanded up to 240 grit and probably with another three four hours I could have done a
lot more better job but I was just curious to see with some oil how this piece will look and I'm
really glad to see after a couple of coats of mineral oil the sanding marks barely visible
if I have some free time in the future I will go back to and do some more sanding but for now
I think we call it a day thanks for watching and see you back next week oh love this green