Stabilised elm burl turned into a hybrid wedding goblet with two captive rings. It was a freshly cut burl/burr but spent 30hrs in the oven to dry out then stabilisation process could begin. Mixed with black and silver resin powder then it was ready for deep pour resin casting and onto the pressure pot to cure. 2 captive rings were added during wood turning and sprayed with lacquer to extra shine.
In the future I would like to share my creations with the audience here ranging from both simple woodturning ideas ideal for beginners but also more complex and artistic works for those like a bit of challenge. 😊 Please support my channel by subscribing and hit the notification bell button so you will not miss my future projects. Thanks for watching and see you back soon for my next weekly video 😊
DISCLAIMER: Please do not solely rely upon the information and techniques discussed and displayed in my channel. I am not a professional woodworker, wood turner and working with machinery and electricity can be dangerous however I try to share good practices, techniques and products what works for me. It is recommended that you fully research each technique and decide for yourself what the safest possible work method is for you.
Hey my name is David and welcome back for another project video. Today we are going to turn an
amber into a black hybrid goblet with two captive rings. And you are right this is not my first
goblet on this channel but I think you should definitely check the others out if you haven't
seen them because they're all different. Different colors, different shapes, so check them out.
But this one will be special because this is the first with actual voiceover. So let's get going.
Using my self-made molds and oh yeah those thick walls will definitely keep the resin inside.
Trust me the last you want is a leakage on your resin mold and I had some experience with that.
I will mix up two different batches as I said it will be black however I do want to have some sort
of swirls inside the resin. So I will use in one part some sort of black colors and the other one
will be more of a silver grayish color. So hopefully the end result will contain some
sort of swirls if you follow me. If not don't worry I will show at the end. And then it can
go into our pressure pot for overnight. And just very quickly to wrap it up what pressure pot is
basically is a pressurized system what allows the resin to cure under 60 psi of pressure which means
it will compress the air bubbles so you will end up with a nice bubble free resin. And after a
couple of days later this is our resin blank and as you can see it will pop out very nicely from
this silicone mold. Before I pour the resin I also use some some wax mold release which just
helps with getting the piece out of the mold. And my best method of utilizing some five minutes epoxy
resin and a waste block with a face plate screwed onto it to mount this on my light.
Again I won't be using too much pressure here you don't want to squeeze out all your epoxy resin
just enough so it will cure with filling up all the little gaps between waste block and the piece.
And as you can see I'm starting rough shaping with a traditional tool rather than going into
my usual negative rate carbide bits which I normally talk a lot about. It's how good is on
resin and the only reason this shapes or rough shapes the piece a lot faster than going in with
negative rate scraper. However the surface at this stage is full of chip outs but that's fine
because then once I have it fully rough shaped I can just go back with my negative rate scraper
and then start shaping into the desired shape and therefore getting rid of all the little chip outs.
However one of the disadvantages when you go with all those little chip outs first of all is like
little sharp shards flying into your hand if you work close to the project can be a bit painful
and also it can cover the entire workshop because they just flew everywhere so something to consider.
And since I don't play tennis I can really utilize this ball to help me reducing some vibration
since this is a spindle work definitely helps out. And just some finishing touches with the
spindle gouge here and I normally get a nasty catch here but not this time so lucky me.
This is where I'm marking out where the two captive rings will go and then after I can just
risk maneuver and this tool is fairly aggressive so I'm pointing the tool a little bit downwards
just to kind of create that negative angle. Previously I had some catches again with using
this tool but this just really helps to shape the ring in a perfect half circle. So yeah I do like
to use the tool but definitely involves with a little bit of risk and I had rings exploding on me
after using this tool so just be careful. At this point I'm not going to cut all the way through the
so I will leave the piece on the body and the only reason it's a lot more easier to send if the
rings is still attached to the body and once I'm happy with the actual sending I can just finish
removing some more excess materials and then I can come back to the rings to be completely
detached from the main body. And here we are just a gentle little touch both side and boom
the rings are separated. I'm using just a little bit of tape to keep the rings on one side until
I can work on the other side and then vice versa I will switch it again once I'm finished carving
the top side. There you go. The last thing you want your piece spinning at 600 rpm and all of a
sudden your rings come to your cutting edge and boom. So using a tape definitely makes it a lot
more safer. Then just some finishing touches at the inside of the rings and whilst I'm using
a power tool here a lot of and I can say a lot of hand sanding needed to get a nice
circle all around the rings but I had to edit that because I don't think anyone is ready for
two hours hand sanding so lucky you. And we are nearly there for the finishing touches so I'm
using some alcohol to wipe down all the dust before I can spray some gloss lacquer. Due to the rings
this process is definitely a little bit complex because you have to do in three different stages
and the only reason if you want to do in one single go as you're spraying the body obviously
the rings are still spinning all around therefore the lacquer won't it won't be nice because the
rings constantly spinning around a fresh lacquer surface which will just scratch or not dry
evenly so you have to do it in separate first. I do the rings and then I will uncover half part
of the goblet which I normally do the top first and then I can spray the top and then once
it's fully cured which is normally I leave it for a good 24 hours and I have to apply around
eight or nine different layers each layer needs to dry for 20 minutes before the other layer so
it's quite a complex and time-consuming process but once you get it right again the finish can be
extremely beautiful. And then now we are ready to remove this from the waste block and do the
finishing touches at the bottom of the goblet. Oh and by the way the reason I used black colour
for this project this was a customer order for a wedding so one for him which was the black colour
and obviously I have one for her which was a white colour goblet so let me know if you want to see but
I do have another very similar exactly identical goblet but in white colour so let me know down
below in the comments if you would like to see then I will get it edited and upload it on my
channel. And here we are the finishing touches just using some 30 minutes epoxy resin to bring
the bottom to a very similar look as the rest of the piece and achieving a high gloss finish
with popping the bubble here we are thanks for watching see you soon