Wie man eine Geldbörse macht | SWR Handwerkskunst

Leather, a natural product that the legendary Ötzi wore 5,300 years ago. Manfred Goll is a fine-tech master and checks the goods he has just received. For example, I'm looking to see if the leather is relatively fault-free. Every fur has faults. Just like we humans have injuries somewhere and you can see them on this fur. I'm looking to see if these faults are extremely strong or if they are more likely to go under. In this case, for example, you can see these insect stings, which occur relatively often in this part. Now I have to judge whether we can still use the leather or if these faults are so strong that we can hardly do anything with this skin. Quite tricky. Manfred Goll works for the company Braunbüffel in Cairn. He produces small leather goods. Wallets, belts and bags. The leather he examines comes from Italy. Every fur is measured with laser beams. This here is 1.86 square meters in size. The prices range from 35 to over 120 euros per square meter. Büffel and deer leather is also processed like exclusive horse leather from the USA. During his entry checks, the craftsman also recognizes the character of the animals from which the leather comes. You can see on the skin, for example, whether this is an animal that wants to show how strong it is. But you can also see on the skin, if it is an animal that likes to stand in the corner, that the skin looks cleaner than the one that wants to show how strong it is. The fine carpenter is one of the rare professions. There are only three masters in the whole of Rhineland-Palatinate who are allowed to train. Today he has a special task. He is supposed to make a money exchange, a prototype. Let's take a look at the drawings again, Mrs. Theis. He discusses the details with designer Conny Theis and business manager Christiane Brunk. It is clear that the prototype is to be made from hunting leather. I say that will be something for the customer. We know the problem of leather, that it is very different. Now it's about the color and material of the fur. Neutral would be a gray tone. I say goodbye to my colorful color. They have not yet worked with the leather of the highland edge. It would be like this stock exchange here. Here is leather, here is leather. And here we make a lining with a leather stripe. The other bags of lining we make with this thinner lining, so that the stock exchange does not look too thick later. And they still have to talk about the seams. I hope that a straight seam will be better, because as I said, the leather is already structured and tells so much. I think we have to hold back a bit with the thread. I make different stitch knots and then we can decide how to proceed. Then we are now ready as far as the execution is concerned. I got the drawing that we go through the story again before I start cutting patterns. That means we make the part completely from the hunting leather and inside we work with different lining materials. The back of the outer lid gets this gray lining leather and the back of the middle wall strip gets this gray lining leather. They have agreed on the shape, color and material of the stock exchange. Now the fine technician can go to work. His first work is in the truest sense of cardboard. He first cuts templates for all components of the stock exchange They have to be up to the millimeter. How the individual templates look, he takes from the designer's plans. All cuts that are on the stock exchange are first made on paper and are then labeled on paper what it should be. Should it be a piece of leather or should it be a lining, a reinforcement material, a power supply? No matter. In his long working life, Manfred Goll has already made hundreds of such prototypes. Here are the first templates for the credit card flap, which are located on the left side of the stock exchange. This is the basic lining material. Then I have the first leather strip, which has already been cut out at the top so that you can lay a round corner. This is the part that is laid here. Then comes the lining for the individual credit card flaps. On top of that is a leather strip, which is then placed over the lining. Finally, there is a lining part, which is placed at the bottom with a leather template. A lot of parts have to fit together very precisely. The stock exchange consists of about 50 different cuts. Manfred Goll has never seen another employer. He started here 43 years ago, at the age of 15, as an apprentice. Originally, it was planned that I wanted to become a carpenter, because then you can work with wood and so on. But at the time I started learning, in 1975, there was a shortage of apprentices. Then I thought, what else is there where you can work with a natural product? And then Kiern came into play, where you looked at the profession of fine technology. I didn't know before that there was such a profession. But then it was so much fun that you can produce and manufacture so many individual parts. It starts with a key set and ends with a file bag. He writes the respective material and its strength on the templates. 0.4 means 0.4 mm thick. Some templates require several cuts, but most only one. The result of half a working day lies on the work table. All templates for our stock exchange, a particularly complex one. It always depends on the execution of the stock exchange, whether you work with a simple insertion or, as in this case, with a phrasal insertion. That is, both leather parts, the inside and the outside, are hit against each other and then glued. Of course, this is the most expensive variant from the manufacturer. Accordingly, the item will also cost. Now I'm going to put the paper templates together. Leather to leather, feed to feed, mesh material and reinforcement material. And then I'll go to the cutting table and cut all the parts out of the leather and the feed. In the warehouse, not only the different leather types are waiting for their processing, but also the feed material, especially silk. Manfred Goll first roughly cuts the fabric. The fine work comes later, he doesn't need scissors for that. The yak leather is firm and particularly thick. When cutting out the individual parts, he also has to make sure that the structure of the leather is similar. The differences are often immense in one and the same piece of leather. You can see here on the leather that there are different smooth parts on it and different beveled parts on it. And then of course we have to see that the stock has an even beveled picture in the end. This leather here is also very thick, so it has a strength of 1.8 mm. And you have to have scissors that cut, otherwise you have a problem. Fein Teschner has already processed all kinds of animal skin. Not yet. The yak, I did some research on the Internet, is a high-altitude cattle. That means it lives in the Tibet Plateau. The air up there is already relatively thin and somehow the fiber structure of this animal is relatively firm. It's also the first time for us and we're curious to see what comes out of it. Back in the warehouse. In the billboard of the money exchange, Manfred Goll processes another leather type from the calf. It is called combination leather here because the brown skin of the yak is combined with this gray material. It will no longer be visible from the outside later. The next step is to make it thinner before he cuts the leather exactly. With 1.8 mm it is unusually thick. All leather parts will soon become familiar with the sharp blade of this machine. This is our split machine now. It makes the leather thinner to the appropriate material strength. That means, if I now introduce the leather here and take it out again, you can see that the leather is cut through in the middle. The knife is permanently sharpened. We have a grinding device down here that permanently sharpens the knife. If the knife is only blunt once, the material strength does not last and we can do the whole thing again. After the run-through in the split machine, the leather cuts are of different thicknesses, between 0.4 and 1.1 mm. The fine technician checks every part, safe is safe. Then it goes back to his workbench. The leather is now cut exactly, just as the templates suggest. No slipping, even the smallest corners have to go until the templates and leather cuts are even. The material is expensive, one square meter costs 65 euros. Work precisely, keep the cut as small as possible, that's routine for him. The complicated thing is actually making the paper template. Cutting the leather is actually just a routine. Here you just have to make sure that when the leather is relatively soft, that you press the template firmly on the leather, otherwise it will move and then there will be an inaccurate cut. The fine technician has to cut 35 pieces of leather alone. Handwork that takes several hours. The hunting leather here, for example, is a good leather to cut because it has a certain fat layer and the paper template practically sticks to the leather, so it can be cut well. But only if the cutting knife is always nice and sharp. However, a money exchange is only created completely by hand for the very first time. As a prototype, the paper template must first be cut. Later, when it goes into production, all these paper templates are taken and then the cutting tools are bent over it again. That's why we have to make sure that we don't cut any more paper when we cut it, because everything that is cut now is the cutting knife afterwards. Josef Gräf is the leather cutter. For all items that have already been included in the various collections of the house, there are cardboard sheets with the templates. A tool maker has made the cutting knives. Here are some of them. With the cutter and the cutting knives, the different cuts can be made much more rationally. Otherwise, a money exchange made in Germany would hardly be affordable. Here the machine, there the pure manual work. Manfred Goll is not only a fine-tuner at Braunbüffel, but also a production manager. He purchases new tools that he needs in production. The company he has been working with for a long time is located 15 km from Kirn in Bundenbach. It is the kingdom of tool maker Hubert Botländer. He specializes in the production of cutting knives for small leather goods. He supplies several companies that process leather, including car saddles. The template serves as a template for the new cutting knife. There is still no talk of automation at Hubert Botländer. First he cuts the knife to the right length. It consists of hardened steel. On the sharp side, it is harder than on the blunt side. Then it runs through a jigsaw. There are no computer-controlled machines here. This is all manual work in the truest sense. And I'm very happy about that. I need it to do something with my hands. The two have known each other for a long time. The tool maker has several customers from Kirn. Until the 1980s, 3,000 people lived in the small town with leather in front of their mouths. Today, Manfred Goll is one of two Kirners who take up the services of Hubert Botländer. Millimeter by millimeter, he bends the knife until it takes on the shape of the template. The production takes time. But the cutting knives also last a long time. You could say it lasts forever. There are steel knives that are already under repair. A soldering iron is the weakest link in the knife, so to speak. It can burst. Steel knives are under repair. They are from the 60s or 70s. They last if you treat them properly. After he has bent the knife, the tool maker cuts off the protruding piece of the blade. Then he welds the punch knife together. At work, caution is required. The knives are blunt. You can take a piece of steel in your hand and nothing happens. But it has happened to me that I got to it briefly and then you have a cut in your finger. In the true sense of the word, the knife is sharp. Maybe you can only see it here on your fingers. That it bleeds from time to time and plaster must not be missing here in the workshop. In the end, he reinforces the punch knife with a steel insert so that it remains stiff and firm. That's it. He couldn't make large quantities like that, but it's not necessary. Almost every punch knife is a single piece. Back in Kell. In production, the new punch knives can be used immediately. At Braunbüffel there are only a few machines. The company is a manufacture and the 50 employees are supposed to work conscientiously. After all, you want to produce exclusive items. Between 60 and 370 euros the gentlemen's money exchanges of the house cost. But no one works here more exclusively than Manfred Goll. His prototypes will not be for sale. He is a single piece of which it is not yet clear whether he will ever go into series production. He cannot yet say whether he will like the end result, but he has very specific preferences. I am more of a money exchange guy who has a crude stock exchange. So I love water buffaloes. And I just like it when this water buffalo gets this patina when wearing it, this shine. The leather changes, it is relatively matt at the beginning, but when you wear it, it is really shiny and already so worn off and I like that. The next working day begins in Kelm. The leather goods industry has largely disappeared from the small town nearby. Only here are Feintäschner still trained, the only company in the whole of Rhineland-Palatinate. Manfred Goll is back at his workplace. It will take him a total of four days to manufacture the prototype, but he is still in the middle of it. He puts together the parts he needs for the next step. What is now in the language of the Feintäschner means sharpening the edges. But nothing is sharpened here. Actually, something completely different is happening to the machine. So now we only make the edges thinner on this sharpening machine, so that we can better convert them later during the manufacturing process. Yesterday we made the leather thinner as a whole, and now we only make the edges so that the stock exchange looks very thin and is still stretchable and the functionality is not affected. Jagdleder is very robust due to the extreme living conditions in the mountains. Compared to leather from the Rhine, it is much more durable and heavier. These are imprint stamps. With them, Manfred Goll presses the company's logo into the leather. This is a special hot-glue film. The machine now has a temperature of 130 degrees. We now stick the imprint stamp on the upper heat plate. Now we give the stamp the time to heat up to 130 degrees. And then we do the test markings. Today he tests three different markings. One without and two with film, clear and black. The films are supposed to give the logo more shine. The differences are small but recognizable when you look at the markings from the side. The one with the black film stands out clearly. I like the middle stamp very much, which we have imprinted with the transparent film. Because the imprint comes out clearer. You can read it much better than if it were imprinted without film. It is half-time for the production of the stock exchange. The fine-tech master has cut all parts. Made of leather, lining and reinforcement material made of leather fiber. From now on, the individual parts are put together. First with a water-soluble glue. This meets very specific requirements. When it is dry, it must remain flexible. And it must not shine through even with thin leather. Then the item would be ruined. He bends the edges with the impact knife. This is also called re-bending. These will be the so-called separations for the credit card compartments. Then he takes care of the pinstripes. I brought you something. We are now developing a new series. We want to see that you apply a gray pinstripe. We want to play with the yarns now. Whether you take a thick thread or a thin thread. So we would just cut off the rope here. To see what the pinstripe looks like. They test different yarns and different lengths of stitch. I have small stitches here. But I think they are too small. Okay. Something has to be adjusted to the tension. And the pinstripe could be a number bigger. That looks good. Pinstriping. The only activity in the production of the money exchange, which he does not carry out himself. That makes the seamstress Ilona sick. They have three different pinstriping samples. My favorite was the last seam. We always have to make sure that the pinstriping machine has two threads. A lower thread and a upper thread. Pinstriping must take place right in the middle of the product to get a nice pinstripe. Various yarn strengths are used. In the separations of the credit card compartments, they use a relatively thin yarn. Here, too, they have tried different lengths of stitch. That looks good. That's exactly what it will probably be. In the workshop, articles for the collections of Braunbüffel are also created at the same time. The company is very successful in Asia. There, goods made in Germany are still in demand. At home, the company tries to preserve the old craftsmanship. We are, for example, in Rhineland-Pfalz, as far as I know, the only company to train for the profession of fine art. Our apprentices have to go to Mainhausen, to Bavaria, to school. Block school lessons. We already had that. Application, certificate, everything is fine. They are interested in the profession. Later, they had to take a block school lesson in Mainhausen. Sorry, that failed. In the production, designer Conny Theis and business leader Christiane Brunk look at the various pinstriping samples of the prototype. All the leather parts have now been cut. I have now made several samples here. Once pinstriping samples over a thicker thread, which we have already talked about, and a thinner one. This is a 20 thread, this is a 40 thread. Here I have made several samples to decide what to take. The leather is very robust and very sporty. That's why I think a rough seam is somehow nicer on the article than an extremely fine seam. The inner parts here. We'll do the outside like you did here. Now we have to look at the markings. Here I have made three different markings. Once without foil. The middle one has been marked with a transparent foil. The outside has been marked with a black foil. Blind with black foil, completely separates. As I said, this comes over very clearly. We should decide for this one. Yes, I think it's good. For Manfred Goll, the work on the money exchange continues. He is still busy with the credit card compartments. He glues the lining of silk with the jacquard leather. When the glue has dried, it has a transparent color. Then you can practically wrap it in. When wrapping, you have to make sure that the leather edge is always against the lining edge. So that you get a nice straight line. When the edge is inserted, we make a zipper, a ruffle. That is, the ruffle is burned into the leather. The tool has two ruffles. One ruffle serves to connect to the product. The other ruffle practically makes the ruffle. For the fine technician, there is nothing unusual about the prototype. This is part of his professional life. Except for money exchanges, he still makes bags, postcards, belts and key etui. And not too few of them. We've had it for years now. We've produced 200, 250 prototypes. There are still years ahead, when we still produce 150 or 140 prototypes. It's always different. Then the prototype is okay, but instead of 8 credit card holders, it should have 10 credit card holders. Then the article gets a new number and the cuts are changed. This is practically finished. From now on, the production of the stock exchange becomes an interplay between the fine technician and the seamstress. The individual parts keep moving back and forth. So, Mrs. Uebel, this is the first step on the stock exchange. We have to cut off the lining from the credit card separation. The same here. The cutting machine has a top and a bottom thread, one for the top and one for the bottom of the fabric. In order to keep the finished seam stable, the tension of the top and bottom threads must be about the same and match the fabric. The credit card compartments are now sewn together. There is an archive shelf in the workshop. The treasures from the past decades They are sorted by year. The view into the boxes shows that fashion is also subject to the stock exchange, especially that of the ladies. But a lot has also happened with the gentlemen, especially in the interior. Manfred Goll has seen fashion come and go in his 43 years of company affiliation. He collects three stock exchanges from the shelf. When the first one came on the market, he was an apprentice here. Mr. Goll, what did you pick out? We have an archive here from 1976 to today. I picked out different banknotes to show you how it was worked before and how it is worked today. This is the 55th model from 1976. You can see here on the stock exchange that the old layout was still applied and that the stock exchanges used to be worked with pointed corners. Inside you can also see that the main point was the ID. Here, in the inner cover, a pocket was worked in for a credit card, which is no longer done today because it contradicts itself, a credit card and cash. Cash opens up the coin pocket and the card would become wavy. Now I have taken a stock exchange from 1984 so that you can see the difference from the stock exchange before. Here you can see that you are already working with the new layout, but the pointed corners are actually still there. But we went more to credit cards in the interior and the MAHA is actually still there at the moment, because it has now come out of the inner cover of the credit card. But we had a time when we worked in a pocket just for a replacement key, so that you know exactly where this replacement key is and you don't have to look for it in the stock exchange. Now we are making another time leap into 1991. Now we are working with rounded corners and you can see inside that there are more and more credit cards. There are already five credit cards in here. The MAHA is actually still the same. But now there is a pocket inside for replacement keys. From the past back into the present, or rather into the future. Because the stock exchange, which is just being created, if at all at the earliest in a few months, will come to the market. Still a lot of work to do. The important thing here at work is that the lining is glued relatively narrowly. If it is glued too wide or the glue is applied too thickly, it may be that the credit card does not fit in properly later. That's why you always glue the edges very narrowly. Manfred Goll is doing the last work on the so-called credit card separation. It will later fill out the left side of the stock exchange. Then our craftsman takes care of a part made of a very special material. He only uses it once. Now we are finishing the mesh. To do this, we glue the insertion strip here. When we process the mesh material here, we make sure that the mesh chain and shot run diagonally. Diagonal because if it is cut horizontally and vertically, you can pull out the chain and shot fibers. In the past, a celluloid, a transparent material, was used. This transparent material has the property that in summer, when it is warm, it becomes relatively soft and wavy. In winter, when it is cold, it becomes hard and brittle. This mesh material has been used for 20-25 years now. It is flexible, stays flexible, but has only one disadvantage, that you cannot read so well through this mesh. The personnel ID should be found in the mesh compartment. So we can be sure that it is also straight. Next, it's about the little money. In order to be able to close our coin compartment, I now have the leather part of the inner cover here. A hole still has to be drilled to attach the push-button later. In our template, it is already specified where this hole should go. I now stick the template exactly to the leather part, put a 2 mm hole pipe on the template and hit this hole with the hammer. Now that we have attached the leather part, this is the closure. You can already see what it should look like later. But the coin compartment is far from finished. Now we stick the reinforcement material on the top cover. This reinforcement material only serves so that the top cover does not look too soft. Because this is a part of the coin compartment where it is permanently opened. There should still be a bit of firmness in the top cover. This reinforcement material is made of leather fibers. This means that the leather waste that is found in the production is ground and processed later into such a reinforcement material. When gluing, of course, you have to make sure that the impact is always equal. Not that there is more on one side or more impact can be seen than on the opposite side. And then Manfred Goll comes to a specialty of his company, round corners. That's why I've put it here. If a stock exchange has such a round corner, like up here, for example, the round corner also has to be placed. I have a special knife to round the corners. Mr. Goll, there are no round corners. There are no round corners. Rounded corners. Our money exchange is making progress. Several parts are already glued and we continue with the needle and thread. The relatively large compartments for the cash register are under attack. As careful as ever. The company offers a lifelong repair service. Complaints based on material errors are repaired free of charge. The cash registers are stowed away. The fine-tuner is still at the etui for the small money. The wedge-shaped parts on the side are on it. Now it's time to make the cash register. First we have to knock on the folds. We intentionally lay the folds back about 2-3 mm so that you can later stow the cash register in one seam. And then it goes back to the sewing machine. Now we have the next step for all the parts. Here we have the coin compartment, which is practically stowed on three sides. Then we have the top of the coin compartment, which is also stowed on these three sides. Then we have the credit card separation and the net. Even a straight stitch is sometimes difficult to achieve. But here Ilona Übel has to sew around the corner. The coin compartment takes shape. Manfred Goll has now reached the final stage. For the cash register, he puts together the front and back and the wedge-shaped side parts. The remaining part is also a stop. Because we said at the first meeting that it should get a French stop. That's why I always have to make sure that this addition of the stop is also included. French stop means that the outside and inside of the part are folded in opposite directions and then glued together. Manfred Goll now puts the case on the back of the coin compartment. I can already see that when I fold in this part, the stop is already relatively narrow on the top. But it still grabs when you step off. That's important. I might still have to add half a millimeter to the template so that you can fold in better. Findings when making a prototype. Now we know the time to step off next to it. The coin compartment has to be stepped on, and the time next to it has to be stepped off. The more individual parts are put together, the more complicated the work becomes. There are several layers on top of each other made of different materials. Steps for advanced people. Much is no longer missing from the finished money exchange. In the meantime, the fine technician has made some experiences with the skin of the Hochland rind. I actually like the jacquered leather very much from the structure. So it's actually not yet clear whether you should work with jacquered at all. It's interesting, because it's a high-altitude rind. We've never processed it like that before. So I think the challenge is there. The compartments for the bill are on. In addition to the inside and the outside, there is also a partition wall in between. The inside of the bill box is sewn. And Manfred Goll takes care of the partition wall. Here you have to make sure that you put the feed exactly on the edge. There is also a certain congestion in here. That means we're practically putting the corner feed now. Which is of course a little bigger than the middle wall strip. Now you can see how the stock exchange with the middle wall strip is designed. Now only the outside of the bill box is missing. We are now working here with a double-sided tape, simply to prevent the edges from being glued through the glue. That's such a clean thing. And it holds up just as well. The feed will also be attached later. So there are no quality defects on the item. Then the fine carpenter marries the two parts of the stock exchange. Now we're practically putting the inside on the outside. You have to make sure that the edges are exactly overlapped. Otherwise there will be problems with the feed later. The craftsman has his work almost finished. Time for a first conclusion. It's going to be very soft. Here you may have to work a little more with the material strength. That means you have to see where we can still take a tenth, add a tenth, in order to be able to process the stock exchange better. A single step seam is still missing. But it has it in it. It is the seam that holds the outside and the inside together. We are now here at the final step seam on the outside. I'm just putting the 20 grain on it. Everything has to be smooth. Christiane Brunk can hold the prototype in her hands right away. The first one made of yak leather. I have now made a small change to the stock exchange. I have reduced a stitch by 5 mm so that we have a seam here. Otherwise we would always have had a back seam here and a back seam here. It wouldn't have looked so nice. Can I have a look? The master and his work. What does the boss think? What do you think? Very nice. It turned out well. What we wanted to show with it, as I said, the connection of this coarse leather with the fine inside. Great. Have you already decided whether to put it in a collection? I'm sure we'll rework it again. It is always very important to have a first prototype. Then we still notice one or the other. For us it is already established that this will end up in a collection. That is already set for us. It is still unclear what it will cost. But money back and forth. Manfred Goll still likes his work after 43 years. First of all, you have a drawing. You have to put something together based on this drawing. You don't know exactly later if the leather is suitable for it. If everything fits later, then it's a great story. Here it is, the gentleman's money exchange made of yak leather. Real craftsmanship made in Germany.