Five Easy Woodworking Projects || One Day Build Ideas

Bourbon Moth Woodworking
201 followers
130 Video Views·Dec 20, 2022
This video was sponsored by Noom.
Hey, what's up?
It's coming on Christmas.
They're cutting down trees,
which is really good news for us because we're woodworkers
and we can use those cut down trees to build cool stuff.
I know it's a little ways until Christmas,
but I thought I would do a video
showing you guys some simple handmade gifts
that are easy to make in the woodshop for kids and adults
and I would do it a ways before Christmas
so you'd have plenty of time to procrastinate
and then still do it at the last minute.
So that's what we're going to do.
In this video, I'm going to show you some easy gifts,
how to make them.
I think that's it.
Let's do it.
If you have sophisticated friends
and you want to make them something dashing,
well, a chessboard is a really cool gift
because it's easy to make
and it looks fancy as all get out.
I literally made this in half a day.
It's not hard
and I'm going to show you how to make it right now.
So the first thing you're going to need
is two contrasting woods.
For my chessboard, I'm using black walnut
and this hard maple.
Next, you're going to cut down strips of wood.
Now, whatever width you cut these strips to,
that's going to be the width of your individual squares.
You're going to need four of each color
because there's eight rows in total on a chessboard.
So I cut down four of the maple
and then because I was using thicker walnut,
I cut that down
and then I cut each one of those pieces in half
so I could get more out of it.
Then I took all my walnut strips and my maple strips
and I planed them all down
until they were a uniform thickness.
Eight strips in total.
Then I glued all of my strips together
making a nice pinstripe motif.
Just making sure there was enough glue in between each seam
so that everything sandwiched together
and had proper squeeze out
and would glue up in one solid chunk.
Once my glue was dry,
I took my beautiful maple and walnut pinstripes out of clamps
and next I ran the entire thing through my drum sander
on both sides just to make it nice and smooth.
Then I took it over to my table saw
and using my Rockler crosscut sled.
This is such an easy sled to use.
I'm really happy with this Rockler sled.
I trimmed down one side so I had a nice square edge
and using that square edge,
I set my table saw to the exact width
as my individual strips
which was two inches
and I sliced my maple and walnut pinstripes
into eight individual strips alternating in color.
Now I know, I know chess boards aren't striped.
They are more of a checkered pattern.
Well, once you get all your strips cut down like this,
you turn every other strip around the other way
and it turns it into a chessboard pattern
slash checkerboard pattern.
You could use this board to play either.
The prerogative is yours.
Anyways, you alternate every single piece
and now instead of stripes,
you have a beautiful checkered pattern
of which to glue up into your chessboard
and or checkerboard.
So after gluing this whole thing up and cutting it apart,
yeah, we're gonna glue it back together
but this time in the right pattern.
Now you want to try and get these glued up
as even and flush as possible
because this is gonna be the finished size
of your chessboard.
After my glue dried, I pulled this out of clamps
and it was back over to the drum sander
to send it through on both sides
and get the top very smooth and looking fresh.
Then just to ensure that I had nice straight edges
on all four sides,
I went back to the Rockler crosscut sled
and I just took a wisp off each side,
not really removing any mass amounts of material,
just making sure that everything was nice and even.
This shouldn't affect the look
of the overall checkerboard slash chessboard
in any way, shape or form.
Now you might have noticed
that the chessboard is pretty darn thin.
It's just under a quarter of an inch
and that was by design because of wood movement.
We're gonna lock this entire chessboard
into a mitered border
and if we did the chessboard in full thickness wood,
well, that internal wood would want to move
and expand and contract with seasonal wood movement
and it could bust the seams on our mitered border.
So we purposely made the chessboard really thin
and then we glue it to a substrate
of half inch Baltic birch plywood.
We just smeared some glue on the back of the chessboard,
stuck it on top of an oversized piece of plywood
and set a bunch of heavy things on top of it.
Here's one thing that epoxy is really good at,
holding things down.
In a half an hour or so, my glue was dry
and as you can see, the plywood is just oversized
beyond the edge of our actual chessboard.
This was so we didn't have to get it perfect
but then we did get it perfect
by taking it over to the router table
and using a bits and bits compression flush cut bit,
half inch shank and flushed everything up very nicely.
Now it was time to put our border on.
I didn't show you this part
but I glued up some bits of walnut and maple together
and I cut all the pieces for a nice mitered border
just to give the whole thing a little more class and flair.
All I really do is make sure all my pieces fit properly,
smear glue on all my parts and pieces
and then throw the entire board in some clamps.
As long as all your pieces are cut the right size,
you shouldn't need any fancy clamps here.
I just used four little bar clamps
and you don't need a lot of pressure,
just enough to get a little squeeze out.
Don't over tighten those clamps.
Pretty soon my glue was all dry
so I could pull the board out of clamps
and then it was one more time over to the drum sander
on both sides to get everything nice and flush across the top
and then I finished it up with a little hand sanding
on the front and on the back.
It's just a nice clean uniform surface.
You could do some other board game on the bottom
if you really wanted to take the time
but this is supposed to be a quick gift
so one and done, boom, chessboard.
Checkmate!
I just need to put finish on it.
You know what I think is a giant scam?
The candle industry.
Every store you go into there's a candle
and every candle smells like garbage,
like this one.
Chai tea?
Disgusting, all right.
So I thought why don't we make our own candles
something a little more unique,
something that men or women working in a wood shop
would appreciate.
Let me introduce you to the bourbon moth candle.
It's got a little something special in there
to excite your senses and entice the aroma which is life.
I'm putting that on my ad campaign.
Anyways, here's how we made it.
Now I'd never made a candle before
so this entire thing was a little experimental.
So I went to the store and I just bought
some fragrance-free candles
because I didn't want the nasty smells
but I needed the wax.
And then using a big old hunting knife
I started breaking the candles apart
until I had a lot of bits and chunks of wax
that I could melt down into my own special candle.
I did make sure to save the wicks
because I'm probably gonna need those a little later on.
After we got all of our chunks of wax broken down
from our fragrance-free candles
I pulled out a little butane camping stove and a pot
and I started melting down the wax.
Wax is crazy.
I mean it's hard but as soon as you heat it up
it turns all liquidy.
Weird.
Science.
After we had it all melted down
we added a little bit into some glass containers.
These are going to be our candle molds
and then we could start adding in our own fragrances.
I started with a little gunpowder
because, you know, I like the smell of gunpowder.
I remember going shooting with my dad when I was a little kid
and it always smelled so good.
Another thing I love the smell of is Worcestershire sauce.
Wichester sauce.
Wicheshire.
Worcestershire.
Anyways, that brown sauce that you put on steaks and hamburgers.
It just makes me think of backyard barbecues.
So I thought it'd be a good smell.
We just started doing the candles in various layers.
We'd let a little wax harden then add some more gunpowder.
Once we got enough gunpowder in there
we'd add a little bit more wax and kind of mix it up
until we got a nice mixture of gunpowder and wax
all in one unified candle.
Pretty soon our candles were constructed
layer upon layer of wax and black powder
and I sprinkled a little more black powder on the top
just for a added seasoning.
Then it was time to go outside and enjoy my candle.
So I sat down in the garden
thought maybe safety glasses would be a good idea
and I lit my candle.
And you know at first it was really nice and peaceful.
It gave off a light aroma of Worcestershire, Wicheshire
or the brown sauce smell.
But then all of a sudden things got a little crazy.
I'm not going to say that gunpowder in a candle is a bad idea.
It just might not be something for your average candle consumer.
But to each his own.
I flipping love it.
If you ever find yourself in this situation
you're walking around the grocery store
you got a bunch of single random bottles of beer
and you got no place to put them.
You look ridiculous.
Well that's why you make one of these.
This nice custom six pack beer holder.
And the cool thing about this is you can make it
fill it up with all your favorite beers
and then give it away as a gift.
And I'm going to show you how to make it right now.
Now this is a pretty easy one.
You need to start with a scrap piece of plywood.
I'm using half inch Baltic birch.
Then you take a beer pop the top and take a good long sip.
Because it's nice to have a refreshment while you work.
After doing that you're going to use your bottles
to figure out the measurements
to get an actual size of your beer caddy.
I like to get an assortment of different sized bottles
so that I know big or small whatever I get
they're going to fit in my caddy.
You also need to account for a half inch middle divider.
That'll be the handle in the center of the caddy.
Once you have that measurement all figured out
you go over to the table saw
and you cut down a strip of plywood to that width
and you cut it to length.
Now you got the base plate for our caddy.
Then using that same strip
because you want these pieces to be the same width
you cut down two side pieces.
Those will hook on either end of the base plate for our caddy.
Now the side pieces need to look
like an actual six-pack carton thingamawetsit.
So we're going to cut them at a taper on the top.
And because both sides are going to be identical
you can cut both of these at the same time.
Just be careful.
Once you get those cut down
so they're starting to look like the sides
of a six-pack beer holder
next we need to figure out the front and back
of our little caddies.
So we cut those pieces
and I also added these little tabs on my ends
because I thought it looked better
to have the tabs on there.
Don't ask me why.
It was a split second decision.
Next we need to figure out our internal divider handle.
So I cut a piece that was the right size and shape
and I added these little tabs on the top.
These tabs are going to sit over the edge
of our little side pieces
and it should fit in the center of your caddy nice and snug.
Then on the base of that piece
we need to divide it into three separate sections
just like a real six-pack beer holder.
So I marked out exactly where three separate sections would be
and then we're going to do quarter inch Baltic birch
for our dividers.
So using my quarter inch Baltic birch
I traced out how much material I needed to remove
so that I could slot those dividers
in the base of my internal handle thing.
And I cut out those slots over on the bandsaw.
Now you should be able to insert
your little quarter inch divider things
right in the bottom of this center handle piece
and put everything back together
and it almost is starting to look like a six-pack beer holder.
The only thing missing is the handle in the top.
For this I just traced out where I wanted my handle to go
and I used a Forstner bit
to remove the mass majority of all the material
for a little oval shaped handle.
Then I cleaned up the whole thing
over on my oscillating spindle sander
until it was looking nice and smooth.
Then I took the time to pre-sand all of my pieces before assembly
because it's hard to sand once it's all together.
You should have two front pieces,
two side pieces, a base plate,
two divider pieces,
and your internal handle piece
that's slotted with an oval handle in the top.
Then all you really got to do
is add a little glue to all your seams
and I just tack it together with an 18 gauge brad nailer.
So a little glue, glue, glue,
tack, tack, tack,
zip, zap, zoop,
Jason's back.
That's what I would say if that was a wrap,
which it wasn't.
I was just trying to give instructions
on how to put this beer caddy together.
And boom, nice custom wood beer caddy.
After it's all assembled,
I just do a little finish sanding on the outside
making sure all my seams are even and smooth.
I add a little bottle opener
because you know,
you got to be able to open the beer
and of course I added a nice little sticker
for branding,
but also to remind people what happens
if you drink and operate heavy equipment.
You could lose a finger.
Sticker's available on my website.
See, this is nice
because you can get your whole variety of favorite beers,
take it over to a friend's house
and then just have a cold one
and enjoy it with your...
Hey, thanks man.
Dude, you're on the clock.
Get back to work.
Anyways, you can just enjoy it with your friends
and leave it there as a cool gift.
Hey, this video is sponsored by Noom.
You're probably wondering,
what the heck's a Noom?
But don't worry, that's what I'm here for,
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Now, you may have noticed in the last few months
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That's because I've lost some weight.
I've been trying.
I got a little hefty
and I wanted to do something about it.
And like you,
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Every day,
they're going to give you a Noom course
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and they're all like a minute to three minutes.
So it doesn't take very much time
and they teach you cool things
that I did not know before.
Like, did you know that people that weigh in every day
are statistically more likely to lose weight
than people that don't track their weight?
Which is nice
because you can track your weight right down here.
You can log your meals
and it counts your calories for you at the top.
It tells you what range you should be in
if you're trying to lose weight healthily.
They also teach you cool things about eating healthier.
Like caloric density.
I didn't know that kind of thing
but now I'm thinking about that
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The other thing I love about Noom
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Ready your breakfast and eat hearty
for tonight we dine.
So as a dad,
I've gotten used to making a lot of swords in my days.
And at first I just started picking up sticks
and saying here son,
there's a sword.
But the more my son grows
and knows what's fake and what's not,
the more he wants realistic weaponry.
So that's why I'm going to show you
how to make this sweet sword and shield.
Let's do this thing.
Now after a lot of sword making and trial and error,
I found that the best material to make sword blades
is trim molding.
Because it's got all this nice profile look to it
which you can form to look like an exact replica
of an actual sword.
All you got to do is thin it down a little bit.
So putting two pieces together
so you can run it through the planer.
You run it through the planer
until you see it starts to get nice and thin
towards the tip.
Once you do that to one side,
you flip it over
and you do the exact same thing to the other side.
Then you can sandwich these two pieces together
and you can see it's starting to look like a sword
on either side.
Next, I like to run it through the planer
on the rounded side
just to flatten the one end a little bit.
So I do that to one side.
Then I take my other piece.
I run that through the planer
until you have two identical pieces.
Now sandwiched together,
it's really starting to look like a sword blade.
All you got to do at that point
is glue your two pieces together
so that you have one piece
that's the exact same on both sides.
This does require a lot of clamps,
but it's worth it.
It's for your kit.
While we wait for the glue on our sword blade to dry,
we'll start working on the shield.
Now for the shield,
I'm just going to use a scrap piece
of quarter inch oak veneered plywood.
I find the center
and I hook a clamp on
that's kind of going to be a pivot point.
Then I'm going to take a scrap piece of wood
and bend it at an arc
to try and trace out a shield-like shape.
This might take a little trial and error
using different pieces of scrap wood
until you get the right arc
and the right shape.
I mean, there's no wrong way to do this.
Just keep bending pieces
until it looks like a shield.
Once you have a shield shape,
you go over to the bandsaw
and you cut out that shape.
And then I just clean it up
over on the oscillating belt sander.
And I also like to add a little detail to the top.
So I just kind of sand it out a little divot
until, boom, we got a shield.
Next, I wanted to customize this shield for my son
by putting his name on it.
So I just got some of these cheap paper stencils
that you can pretty much get at any big box store,
laid them out on top of the shield,
and I sprayed the whole shield
with a little black spray paint.
Kind of in an un-uniformed way,
you know, to give it that aged look
like he just came back from some great conquest
over the sea in a distant land.
Anyways, now it says Ivor on the front of the shield.
While I wait for the paint on the shield to dry,
my sword blade was dry
and ready to be taken out of clamps.
Now we've got a sword blade,
but it doesn't have any shape to it.
So I took it over to my miter saw
and very carefully,
so that we don't do anything crazy,
I added a point to one end.
You could do this on the bandsaw too,
and it would probably be a little safer,
but this got the job done.
Then using the oscillating belt sander,
I tapered the end
so that it looked like the point of a sword.
Next, you have to slim down the hilt of the sword
just a little bit.
Not a lot, it just has to be thinner
than the actual blade
so the blade becomes a stop for the guard.
And speaking of the guard,
that's what we're going to do next.
I just get something round
that I can use to trace out
and, well, just kind of get a round guard-like shape
traced onto a piece of scrap quarter inch ply.
Then after cutting most of that shape out,
I go over to the oscillating belt sander
and I refine the shape,
just sanding down to my pre-traced line
until we have an oval-like guard shape.
Then I use the chisel to clean up
where I stopped thinning the hilt
over on the belt sander
so that we have a nice hard stop.
And this will allow us to slide our guard on
and it should stop when it hits the blade.
Next, we need to cut a slot in our guard
so that it can slide over the handle of our sword.
For this, I just used a little Forzner bit
that was about the same size
as the handle of our sword.
Next, we just start to slide it onto that handle,
cleaning it up with the chisel as we need
until we get a nice friction fit
right up to the base of the sword blade.
And it's starting to really come together
and look like a sword,
but as you'll probably guess,
it's not very comfortable to hold onto.
Enter some leather strapping
that I had lying around.
I just cut one end at a nice little wedge
to get it started.
I staple it in place
with a half inch 18 gauge staple
and then I just keep wrapping that leather
all the way around the handle,
working my way down to the base.
And once I get down to the base,
I staple that part in place
and then run some staples
all the way up the handle.
Now, these are half inch.
They don't go all the way through the sword.
They get stuck in there,
so don't worry,
you're not going to get poked.
And after doing one side,
I do the same thing to the other side.
And this gives it a nice,
kind of riveted look.
At least, that's what I tell my son.
Next, we just have to add
some leather straps
to the back of the shield
so that he can hang it on his arm
when he goes into battle
with the neighbor kids.
I just drill some holes
through the shield
and then I hook it on
with these little brass screws and nuts.
You could use acorn nuts,
but I didn't have any,
so I just used regular nuts,
which means he'll probably get poked
with those screws at some time
and it'll be all my fault.
But I just made you a sword and a shield.
What more do you want?
Obviously, I had to test it out
and sure enough, it works.
It was on the back side of my head.
Anyways, that's how you make a sword.
Don't poke your eye out.
Don't kill yourself.
Don't slaughter the neighbors.
All right, next!
One of the most insincere
and unthoughtful gifts
you could ever make for somebody
is a free form cutting board
cut from a single piece of wood.
But sometimes we're in a bind
and we need a quick gift,
so I thought I'd show you how to make one.
Your wife will love it.
All right, this one's insanely easy,
so pay attention.
You're going to need a board,
a single board that works good
for a cutting board,
like maple or walnut or cherry,
something of that sort.
And I always like to start with my handle,
which is going to be round
and I'm going to drill a hole
through the center.
So I found this little shot glass
from a bottle of bourbon
and I traced out roughly
where my handle's gonna be.
Beautiful.
Next, you're just gonna take a pencil
and draw a shape.
There's no wrong shapes.
This is a free form cutting board.
It doesn't have to be pretty.
It just has to be art.
That's what you tell the recipient
of the gift.
Once you have a shape
that looks good to you,
you go over to the bandsaw
and you cut out that shape.
Remembering that staying on your line
isn't super important.
It's a free form cutting board.
The lines are more of a suggestion.
After you cut it on the bandsaw,
I like to clean it up
over on the oscillating belt sander,
which is being used a lot
in this handmade gift video.
After we get all the edges
cleaned up nice
and they're looking smooth,
I take a Forstner bit
that looks like a good size
to drill out a hole in my handle.
I tap it in with a hammer
to get it started
and then using a smaller drill bit,
I drill all the way
through the cutting board.
This will allow us to drill in
from both sides with the Forstner bit,
making sure it's lined up
and we're not going to get
any blowout on one side.
I mean, we still want the cutting board
to look nice.
After we drill the hole,
I take it over to the drum sander
and I send it through on both sides
to get it nice and smooth.
And then I pull out
a quarter inch round over bit
and I start rounding over
all of the edges
to make it look like
I put more effort into this
than I actually did.
I also rounded over
the inside of the hole
I drilled out
to make it feel nice
on your finger.
After everything is thoroughly
rounded over,
you sand.
And I hate the sanding part.
But in no time,
look at that!
A free form cutting board
made in about 10 minutes.
Just tell the person
who's getting it
it took all day.
Well, I try and do something
nice for my wife,
make her a 10 minute cutting board
from the sincerity of my own heart,
and what happens?
She gives it back to me
and now I'm out here
eating all by myself.
As woodworkers,
what's our number one pet peeve?
People who only pop the popcorn
halfway through
and you got a bunch of
unpopped kernels in there.
It's annoying.
But what's our number two pet peeve?
Yeah, people putting drinks
on top of our brand new,
freshly made furniture
without a coaster.
But coasters can be ugly.
Coasters can be hard to find.
Some houses don't even have coasters.
That's why this is a great gift
for your friends,
family members,
and clients.
And that is
coaster in a bag.
Regular coasters are inherently flawed
because once you set the drink down,
it can sweat and still roll
onto your piece of furniture.
Introducing coaster in a bag.
You simply pour out
the contents of the bag
and set your drink on them.
Not only does it protect your table,
but the contents will soak up
any unwanted moisture.
Do you have annoying employees
who just set their drinks
on your cast iron work surfaces?
Well, coaster in a bag is here
to help you save the day
and your equipment.
Yo, Jason,
I need one of those coasters in a bag.
Thanks.
I'm telling you guys,
coaster in a bag is a great gift
and it's easy to make.
But if you don't want to hassle
with making it yourself,
these are actually going to be available
for sale on our website.
$12.99 for one coaster in a bag
or $26.50 for two.
There's a link in the video description.
Get yours today.
Only available while supplies last.
Another great gift
for that special someone in your life
is a custom wooden bath tray.
It's a little tray
that sits across your bathtub
and holds all your fancy accoutrements.
Things that really enhance
your bath time ritual.
Make it something special.
Make it something to remember.
I'm going to show you
how to make this one right now.
Now, everybody's bathtub is different.
So the first thing you want to do
is measure your bathtub
or the bathtub of the person
who will be receiving this gift.
Once you get the measurements right,
next, you got to select the wood.
Now, for this tray, I'm using teak
because teak does great with moisture.
It's got a very high oil content.
So people actually use it
to build furniture for inside of showers
because apparently that's a thing now.
Furniture in showers.
Anyways, with your measurements in hand,
you need to cut your boards
down to the right length.
Next, you need to join
one side of both boards
so you have a straight edge
that will allow you to run it
through the table saw
and cut it down to the correct width.
And the correct width is
whatever the heck you want it to be.
Now, one thing to note
about gluing teak to itself
is that the oil content is so high
that before you glue two boards together,
you really need to wipe down
that glue joint with a little acetone.
This will remove any surface oil
that's sitting on the wood
and will allow that glue to penetrate in
and actually hold the boards together.
So after doing that,
I clamped the boards up
and waited for the glue to dry.
Once the glue was dry,
took it out of clamps
and I sent it through the planer
on both sides to make sure
the top and bottom was nice and smooth.
Then I went over to the chop saw
and I just cut a tiny little bit
off each end to make sure
that both sides were perfectly square.
Next, you want to take your board,
set it on your workbench,
and grab a big bucket full of junk
and set it on top.
I mean, I guess it doesn't have to be a bucket,
just anything big and round.
The bucket just happened to be
the exact right size
to get the profile we wanted,
which was this nice round profile
on either end.
So I used the bucket to trace out
that profile on both ends.
Next, we need to attach some feet.
These are less feet and more guards.
These are what's going to keep the tray
from sliding to one side or the other
and falling into the bathtub.
And just like our other glue seam,
before we glue these feet onto the bottom,
we wiped down each seam
with some acetone
to get rid of that surface oil,
spread on some Titebond 3
because it's good for moisture,
and we clamped the entire thing together.
Then we just had to wait
for our glue to dry.
Ooh, our glue's dry.
Look at that.
With our feet glued on,
now it was time to cut
that rounded profile shape.
So I went over to the bandsaw
and I cut off most of the material
staying just outside of my pencil line.
Once I had enough material removed,
it was time to use the router.
But for this, we needed a router template.
And unfortunately,
I thought the bucket would be
a little awkward to use as a template.
So I'm going to use the bucket
to make a template.
So I CA-glued a piece of 1-1-1 plywood
onto the bottom of the bucket.
And using a 1-1-1 flush trim bit
from Bits and Bits,
I just made a template real quick
out of that 1-1-1 plywood.
After that was cut out,
I just pried it off the bottom of the bucket
and used some double-sided tape
to stick it to the top of my teak
bathtub tray shelf thing.
Then I went over to the router table
and again using this flush cut compression bit
from Bits and Bits,
I flush trimmed both the ends
to match my template.
And look at that!
We have this nice rounded looking
bathroom tray shelf thing.
All that was left to do
was to clean it up a little bit
with some hand sanding
and this thing would be ready to install.
And by install, I mean
ready to set on top of the bathtub.
I did wipe the whole thing down
with a little more acetone
just to get rid of all the dust
and get rid of any surface oil
that might be sitting on the outside of the teak.
And I was ready to take a bath.
Man, this is great!
I got my wine here,
I got a good book I can dive into.
The only thing I need
is a nice scented candle
just to make the mood.
Jason, no, no, no, no, no!
Are you crazy?
Hey, man.
All right, there's still one gift
that I haven't mentioned yet
and I saved the best for last.
If you're too lazy
and can't find the motivation within yourself
to get up off the couch
and go make something for your significant other,
well, that's okay.
You can just get on our website.
We've got a whole bunch of new merchandise,
t-shirts, hats, coffee mugs,
that sort of thing.
There's a link in the video description.
Just do that.
Or go in the woodshop and build something.
Hopefully you got some good ideas from this video.
There's also links to all the products and tools we used,
link to our Patreon page down there.
If you're not signed up for Patreon,
you should be
because you get a whole bunch of behind-the-scenes footage,
backstage pass, perks,
live question and answer every week,
discount codes,
all sorts of things.
Until next time,
go make a gift
and use a coaster.
