Board and Batten With Textured Walls | HomeWithStefani

Hey guys, welcome back. First of all, I just really wanted to say thank you so, so much for the support and encouragement on my DIY projects, it means a lot. You guys have been requesting that I share more projects, so that's exactly what I plan to do. This week, I am working on a guest bedroom makeover under $500, and since I'm on a budget, I plan to do some fun DIY projects in here. So this board and batten accent wall is my first project. I was able to do this wall under $100, but you can even do it cheaper if you use some different materials. There are so many different ways you can customize this project. You can make the boards any height, depending on what you have in your space. I have a queen size bed going here, and the headboard goes to about here, so I wanted the wall to go above my headboard. I also made this ledge a little bit wider, so I can lean some artwork and pictures up there. You can also space out the boards how you like them, if you want them more narrow or wide. Completely up to you, lots of different options, but I'm going to be sharing the steps on how to make this exact board and batten wall. Sketch out your wall on a piece of paper, and make a plan of how you want your board and batten to look. This is a picture of a sketch that I made to plan out and get measurements for my board and batten wall. Take a look at the description of this video for a list of the tools and the lumber that I used for this project. If you don't have a flat baseboard, I recommend replacing your baseboard with a 1x3 or 1x4 so that you have a smooth transition from your vertical boards. Score the caulk with a utility knife, and use a pry bar to carefully remove the baseboard. Remove any leftover nails also. I used these 1-1-1 inch hardboard panels to cover the texture on my walls. If you don't have any texture on your walls, you don't need to use the hardboard. Even if you do have textured walls, you don't have to use this hardboard, and you can place your boards straight on the wall. But using this 1-1-1 inch hardboard will allow your paint to go on so much smoother, and it will look a lot more professional. I had Home Depot cut my hardboard panels to size. You'll want to make sure to cut your panels so that the seams are covered by your vertical boards. Check out my sketch to see how my 1-1-1 inch hardboard panels are laid out. Use a good amount of liquid nails on the back of your 1-1-1 inch hardboard. Place it on the wall and distribute weight all over the panel so the glue adheres. Use your level to make sure the panels are level on your wall, and secure it to the wall using brad nails. You only need a few nails on the very outside edges of your hardboard, so that the nail holes will be covered by your boards. I had to notch out a rectangle for the outlet inner wall. Take a measurement on your wall and transfer it to your 1-1-1 inch hardboard. Draw a rectangle for the outlet, and drill a hole in each corner. Then use a jigsaw to notch out the rectangle. In order for your new baseboard to fit, you may have to notch your existing baseboard on the left and right wall. Make a pencil mark on your existing baseboard where it needs to be cut, and cut the baseboard using a multi-tool. Secure your boards to the wall with liquid nails and your brad nailer. For the top horizontal board, get a measurement either from the ceiling or from the floor on where you want your top board to be. Once you nail in one end, use a level to level out the board. Then put nails in the rest of the board to secure it to the wall. Okay, so we have textured walls here, and instead of putting my 1x3 board straight on the wall, I put this 1-1-1 inch hardboard down first. Home Depot has them for like $8, and it's a 4x8 panel, so it's super inexpensive. This way, when I paint, it's going to have a really smooth finish, and it's just going to look so much more professional. I cut the board so that my seams are going to be covered by the 1x3 boards, and you can see they're not super tight to the wall, and that's okay because it's going to be covered by a board here. Make a measurement on your top horizontal piece on where each vertical board needs to go. Get a vertical measurement from the base board to the top board. All of your vertical boards may have slightly different measurements. Once your vertical boards are cut, dry fit them in place to verify that they fit. Use a level to make sure that your vertical boards are straight, then use liquid nails and your brad nailer to secure each board to the wall. You may have to notch around an outlet or a light switch. I used my jigsaw to notch the board around my outlet. Use liquid nails and your brad nailer to secure the 1x3 ledge piece to your top horizontal trim piece. I had to use three of my scrap boards to make this ledge, which is 131.5 inches. Okay, so I finished installing all of the boards yesterday. All of these are 1x3 boards, except for the bottom base trim that is a 1x4 board. Everything went up pretty fast. All of the cuts are nice and straight, nothing too confusing. I did have to notch out this outlet here, which was a little tricky. Once I had my measurements down, it really went up pretty fast. So the next step for me now is to fill all the nail holes. I have this plastic wood to fill the nail holes, and then I'm going to caulk the seams so everything is going to look nice and seamless and professional. I bought the pre-primed boards, so I don't have to prime those. It saves me a little time. They are a little bit more expensive, but it's worth it if you want to save the time. I'll have to prime these hard boards, and then I can get started painting. So I'm excited to get rid of the brown and white. Not a huge fan of that look. Fill all the nail holes and flat joints where your vertical boards meet your horizontal boards. If any nails are sticking out, you may want to use a hammer and a nail set to pound the nails in. I used 320 grit sandpaper to sand off all the excess wood filler. I took the same sandpaper to lightly go over every board before painting. Be sure to vacuum all the dust and wipe the wall with a damp rag. When caulking next to a wall, I like to tape off the wall, leaving a little gap. Put a bead of caulk down the seam, and then wipe the line with a wet finger. Remove the tape, and then you will have a perfect, clean line. For all the interior seams, I didn't use tape because it will all be painted over anyway. Prime and paint your board and batten wall your color of choice. I used pre-primed boards, so I only needed to prime the brown hardboard. I used bare paint in the color Creek Bend for my wall.