Before Salumeria Rossi’s owner Andrew Loscalzo knew the language of restaurants, he knew the rhythm of his nonna’s kitchen in Milan. He remembers rolling orecchiette by hand, and gently lifting away the skins of blanched tomatoes with a spoon. At the market, he learned to examine the produce carefully, because a good meal begins long before a pot reaches the stove.
The summer months found Andrew in a different kitchen. In Michigan, where his uncles raised buffalo, he learned to cook over charcoal as soon as he was tall enough to see over the grill. Italy gave him pasta and tomatoes; Michigan gave him fire and smoke. Both gave him the same lasting memory: family and friends gathering to eat.
That feeling followed him to Salumeria Rossi. When Andrew introduced his established Upper West Side restaurant to the East Village, he brought along nearly all of its menu and the neighborhood spirit that regulars had come to know. He added a morning café with espresso, pastries and tarts made in the kitchen, and croissants imported from Italy.
He imagined the two dining rooms as parts of one journey. Uptown, the design evokes a voyage across the Atlantic to Italy. In the East Village, the traveler has reached shore. Lighter colors and boat wood suggest a trip along the coast, inviting guests to settle in.
Ask Andrew which dish feels closest to home, and he chooses spaghetti pomodoro. When the tomatoes and pasta are right, he says, it needs no Parmesan. For readers, he offers another lesson in simplicity: his cacio e pepe.
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Andrew combines three parts grated Pecorino Romano with one part 24-month-aged Parmigiano Reggiano, then adds freshly ground black pepper and a little starchy pasta cooking water. He stirs gently until the cheese forms a smooth sauce, tosses it with fresh tonnarelli, and finishes with more Pecorino and pepper. It is served immediately. With so few ingredients, each one matters — just as his nonna taught him.
Above all, Andrew hopes his guests feel they have discovered a place they can call their own. One may return for coffee, bring a friend for dinner, or linger a little longer over pasta. With time, the table becomes familiar, as if it is waiting to welcome you back.
Visit Salumeria Rossi East Village
222 Avenue B, New York, NY 10009
Phone: (212) 590-2223
Hours of Operations
Breakfast & Salumi Counter: opens 8am daily
Dining Room: 11:30am – 10:30pm daily
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