Along the Brooklyn Bridge waterfront, where the East River moves with a calm the city rarely shares, there is a small room where New York seems to slow its breath. Inside Kiwami, the rhythm of the city gives way to something smoother — the steady movement of a knife, the gentle press of rice, the careful placement of fish. Here, sushi does not announce itself. It simply speaks, in the silent language of patience, memory, and craft.
The name Kiwami in Japanese suggests the highest level of mastery, the point where discipline and devotion meet. The serene, Zen-inspired dining room reflects that philosophy. In a city where dining often keeps pace with the bustling avenues outside, Kiwami invites guests to pause, and pay attention.
At the counter stands Chef Xin Cao, a thoughtful, yet confident presence in New York’s omakase scene. His cooking reflects the quiet discipline that defines the best sushi traditions — precision, restraint, and deep respect for the ingredient.
Chef Cao carries that philosophy naturally.
His journey began early. At sixteen he entered the demanding apprenticeship system under Chef Nobu-san at Kanoyama, where discipline shaped every movement of the knife.
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“My mentor would scold me every time I made a mistake,” he recalls with a gentle smile.
Those early lessons shaped the calm focus he brings to the counter today. He later became instrumental in the team that helped the restaurant earn a Michelin star, before continuing through some of New York’s most respected kitchens, including serving as head sushi chef at Bond Street, and eventually opening his own East Village restaurant, Unique Omakase.
Today, behind the counter at Kiwami, his craft unfolds with quiet confidence.
Here he presents a progressive eighteen-course omakase, guided by seasonality and subtle creativity. Watching him work is like watching an artist — a slice of fish, a stroke of sauce, the finishing touch of garnish. Each movement deliberate, each detail purposeful.
“My cuisine is shaped by the places I explored and enjoyed,” he explains. “From New York to Japan and everywhere in between. My creations come from nature and from life experience.”
Some inspirations, like the Kinki Soupy, reach back to childhood. Chef Cao smiles softly as he recalls a deep fish soup his mother prepared for him while in Fujian — simple, comforting, and filled with warmth.
Another dish carries particular meaning: Unagi (barbecued eel)
“I love it. It was something I always ate as a child,” he says. “It brings back happy memories.”
Like many moments in the meal, the dish carries both technique and emotion.
The eighteen-course progression unfolds in a soft rhythm. Just as your taste buds reach satiety, a bright or refreshing note appears, lifting the senses and preparing them for the next expression. The experience feels carefully composed, almost musical.
Chef Cao himself remains reserved throughout the evening — calm, slightly shy, yet unmistakably confident. His assurance does not need to be bold. It reveals itself in the steadiness of his hands and the clarity of his craft.
“I am not a good speaker,” he says softly. “I speak through food.”
And in a city that rarely slows down, Chef Xin Cao reminds us that true mastery unfolds quietly — one thoughtful piece of sushi at a time.
Kiwami is located at 141 Bridge Park Drive, Brooklyn, NY,929-236-5360 [email protected]
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