When MSG Hospitality Group reached out to let me know that Zen Modern Asian Bistro was relocating from its Sabre Springs location to Del Mar’s Sky Deck, the move immediately made sense.

Executive chef Ethan Yang already operates Glass Box, one of the Sky Deck’s original anchors, creating natural operational efficiencies. More importantly, the new location allows Ethan Yang, head chef Henry Yang and general manager Jonathan Yang to work together under one roof.

Zen is a family-run restaurant built on tradition and elevated through innovation. At its heart is Henry Yang, a Taiwan-born culinary master with more than 40 years of experience spanning Taiwan, Thailand and China. At nearly 70 years old, Chef Henry remains deeply engaged in the kitchen, anchoring the menu with authenticity, balance and disciplined technique.

Working alongside him is his son Ethan, a third-generation chef who grew up immersed in his family’s kitchen before developing a refined, modern sensibility. Completing the trio is Jonathan, whose leadership ensures that hospitality, pacing and service reflect the same care as the cuisine.

Zen’s concept is rooted in Chinese cuisine, interpreted through a modern lens. The menu is designed for sharing and balances comfort, bold flavor and thoughtful presentation. While the dishes feel familiar at first glance, they reveal their depth through thoughtful technique, layered seasoning and a confident balance of heat.

Adding to the experience is a striking bar, rarely associated with traditional Chinese restaurants, where guests can order freely from the full menu while enjoying craft cocktails, sake or wine, all while catching a game. When my wife, Mary, and I arrived at 5:30 p.m. on a Thursday, the dining room and bar were already full with a lively crowd.

Knowing Mary’s enthusiasm for Asian cuisine and Chef Ethan’s talent, I suggested that he take the reins and send out dishes that best represented the collaboration between his father’s classical foundation and his own modern refinement. The evening opened with a fresh crudo from Glass Box, leveraging the synergy under one roof.

The appetizer course quickly set a high bar. Barbecue spare ribs, marinated in Asian spices and glazed with a tangy barbecue sauce, were rich without being heavy. A hand-rolled beef egg roll arrived crisp and golden, filled with beef, egg, celery and cabbage, paired with a balanced house-made sweet and sour sauce. Pork potstickers followed, beautifully browned and filled with pork and scallions, accompanied by a soy-garlic dipping sauce that enhanced the flavors.

Salt and pepper chicken wings delivered just the right amount of heat from Szechuan spices and sun-dried chilies, coating meaty, marinated wings with a crisp batter. Coconut shrimp rounded out the appetizers, crisp and well executed, elevated further by a creamy coconut reduction.

The entrée selections continued the theme of balance and precision. Tung-An Sea Bass featured a tender Chilean sea bass fillet stir-fried with scallions, jalapeño and red bell pepper in a ginger-garlic sauce, echoing the controlled heat found earlier in the meal.

Double Happiness brought together shrimp and scallops with snow peas, carrots and bell peppers in a garlic white wine sauce that was both comforting and refined. A clay pot-prepared roasted eggplant with Thai basil and onions in a spicy aromatic soy reduction added depth and richness to the table.

Jonathan encouraged us to try the Taiwanese beef noodle soup, and it proved unforgettable. Tender noodles and slow-braised beef were layered with bok choy, cilantro and scallions in a deeply aromatic, spiced broth that spoke directly to Chef Henry’s heritage.

Although we were more than satisfied, I could not resist one final dish. Fried rice is one of my benchmarks for any Chinese restaurant, and Zen’s wok-tossed Mandarin fried rice with BBQ pork, soy sauce, eggs, peas, scallions, onions and bean sprouts was perhaps my favorite dish of the night, a deceptively simple plate executed with precision and soul.

Zen’s fusion approach extends to the bar. Beyond beer and wine, the cocktail program includes inventive offerings such as the Modern Tide, a mai tai-inspired blend of white and dark rum, citrus, pineapple, orgeat and grenadine. I opted for the Five Spice Old Fashioned, featuring whiskey infused with Chinese five spice and syrup, which paired well with the bold flavors from the kitchen.

Service matched the quality of the meal. Our server, Arata Tomatsori, was outstanding, friendly, knowledgeable and genuinely engaged throughout the evening.

I am already looking forward to explore more of the noodle, wok and Zen Specials sections of the menu at my next visit. Chef Henry, Chef Ethan and Jonathan Yang delivered a dining experience that was both authentic and elevated. For lovers of Chinese cuisine and Asian fusion alike, Zen Modern Asian Bistro offers a breadth, depth and level of execution that is next level.  Details at zenmodernasian.com.

Wine Bytes

— Cupid is in the air. Puffer Malarkey Collective’s Herb and Sea (Encinitas) chef Aidan Owens is creating a four-course prix fixe featuring grilled prawns, seared sea bass over artichoke risotto, and chocolate lava cake with sea salt caramel ice cream. RSVP and details (herbandsea.com). PMC’s Le Coq (La Jolla) has a four-course prix fixe prix that indulges with baguette and escargot butter, duck leg confit and profiteroles. RSVP and details (lecoq.com).

— Evans Hotel Group also has Valentine’s Day covered. The Lodge at Torrey Pines A.R. Valentin has curated three-course dinners with two complimentary glasses of sparkling wine. Dinner is 5:30-9:30 p.m. $135 per person, plus $95 with wine pairings. Details at lodgetorreypines.com. Bahia’s Dockside 1953 is 5:30-10 p.m., $105 per person. Details at bahiahotel.com. Catamaran’s Oceana Coastal Kitchen by executive chef Bryan Stuppy is 5:30-10 p.m., $89 per person. Details at catamaranresort.com.

Rico Cassoni is executive producer for Taste of Wine and Food. He and founder/advisor Frank Mangio, a renowned wine connoisseur certified by Wine Spectator, are two of the leading reviewers on the web.  Reach them at [email protected].