Name: 缂丝工艺 Kesi (Chinese Silk Tapestry Weaving) | 视频 | 干净世界
Uploaded: 2023-12-11T19:40:31.692Z
Duration: 3 min 6 s
Description: Kesi is the essence of traditional silk art in China. Since the Song and Yuan Dynasties, the royal family has monopolized its production. Kesi was used to weave... | 视频 | 干净世界

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Kesi is the essence of traditional silk art in China. Since the Song and Yuan Dynasties, the royal family has monopolized its production. Kesi was used to weave the emperors’ and empresses’ apparels, imperial images and famous paintings. Because of the extremely meticulous weaving process and its rich and elegant character, Kesi is known as “an inch of Kesi and an inch of gold” and “the Holy of Weaving”.

Kesi adopts a weaving method that passes through the warp and breaks the weft, which makes the work look like being carved and engraved, and has a rich double-sided three-dimensional effect. The Kesi craftsmanship was already extremely superb in the Tang Dynasty, when craftsmen were able to use a variety of valuable materials such as pure gold and silver threads, peacock feathers to weave Kesi. Moreover, the strength of Kesi is much higher than that of any silk handicrafts, therefore Kesi is the best preserved work among all the silk art that has survived to this day.

The nobility of Kesi comes from its need of huge man-hours and meticulous techniques with thousands of threads. As an ancient craftsmanship, Kesi has its own special loom that cannot be replaced by modern machines. Craftsmen must not only master the weaving skills, but also understand painting knowledge in order to combine rich colors with sophisticated techniques. Even a small handtowel-sized work of the highest quality contains thousands of gradient colors, often requires the exchange of tens of thousands of shuttles, and several months for a senior craftsman to complete.

In 2006, Kesi was selected into the first National Intangible Cultural Heritage List. In 2009, Kesi as Chinese silk tapestry weaving craftsmanship was selected as the world's Intangible Cultural Heritage.

缂丝是中国传统丝绸艺术品中的精华，自宋元以来一直为帝王御用，生产被皇室垄断, 常用以织造帝后服饰、御真（御容像）和摹缂名人书画。缂丝品因织造过程极其细致，品格富贵高雅，古有“一寸缂丝一寸金”“织中之圣”之称。
缂丝采用“通经断纬”的织法，形成花纹边界，具有犹如雕琢镂刻的效果，且富双面立体感。缂丝工艺极为精湛，在唐代已登峰造极。一幅上等宫廷缂丝作品，已能使用上纯金线，纯银线，孔雀羽毛等多种名贵的材质进行交汇缂织，巧夺天工。而且缂丝的强度远远高于任何的丝绸类工艺品，历代存留至今的丝绸艺术品，属缂丝保存的最为完好。
缂丝之高贵，因其耗费工时巨大，以万缕千丝成其工巧，“如妇人一衣，终岁方成”。缂丝作为一门古老的手工艺术，有其专用的织机，而且现代机器无法替代。工匠既要掌握缂丝的织造技法，也要懂得画理知识，才能使丰富的色彩与娴熟的技法相结合。仅一方巾大小的上等作品，就包含上千种渐进色，往往需要换数以万计的梭子，需高级技师耗费数月时间方可完工。
2006，苏州缂丝织造技艺入选第一批国家级非物质文化遗产名录；2009，缂丝又作为中国蚕桑丝织技艺入选世界非物质文化遗产。